[FarmerFran]

Air leak? Pulling in air and/or moisture?

I know, that is usually mushy brakes. Just throwing it out there

[m6-lt1]

I had this issue on my last 6th Gen SS. Used it as an excuse to get my 1le haha. Original set lasted 44k. After that I went through 4 sets of pads and rotors and each set would go bad at 1200 miles or less. Tried out oem and power stop. On the final set, I made 2 changes. First change was I installed them myself. During the install I discovered that the wheel hubs the rotors lay against were so rusty, it was not possible to get the rust off with a roloc wheel. Only way was if I took a hammer and chisel and chiseled it off. Obviously I wasn’t going to do that. I stopped the install, ordered new hubs and installed them and the rotors. I can’t say for sure if it fixed the issue because I got a new Camaro about 1000 miles later but the car itself seemed to drive smoother as well after installing the new hubs.

When doing the install myself I was hoping to discover a stuck caliper piston that the techs who worked on my car missed. The pistons were very easy to compress with a pad so that ruled out stuck piston. I think the techs who did all my installs were lying when they said they got all the rust off the hub before installing the rotors (only asked one tbh). There’s no way that rust was coming off.

If your car isn’t a daily or you are someone who washes his wheels and then doesn’t drive the car for a few days, your hubs could be the issue. The rotors need to lie against a perfectly flat surface. If they don’t you will get warped rotor symptoms.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by dpevans

I thought you only had to bed pads and rotors for track events to get the best bite possible. I bed them the day before an event then drive for a week before changing back to street pads and have never had an issue.

Its a safety thing, you need to bed them in for them to work properly. If youve ever broke in new rotors before, its “holy sh*t, I cant stop!”, you need to plan way ahead until you bed them in and they get to normal power.

[shoe5163]

Same issue 4 sets of front rotors Chevy dealer kept telling me they where warped. I bought 2 new orange 50 calpers, 2 GM heavy duty rotors the ones with the s grooves an Akebono pads. About $750-800 for all. 500 miles so far and no issues yet, smooth as silk braking. Dealer kept saying calipers were okay.
Akebono ASP1474 Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit
ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Disc Brake Calipers 84089038
ACDelco Specialty Performance Brake Rotors 19383609

Good reads:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=akebono
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=akebono
They also sell caliper rebuild kits.

[JamesNoBrakes]

I mean, who bedded the pads in when you bought the car? Did they do it at the factory? Are you sure? I've never seen this happening in any car production vids I've watched.

[laynlo15]

You don't ride the brakes do you? Just asking for a friend.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Just asking for a friend.

Your friend must work at my dealership! They accused me of that. They resurfaced my old rotors and left the old semi-metallic pads in place, which is blatantly stupid, since they will just immediately start to wear the new rotor face unevenly. I went home and decided to put ceramic pads on that week while the faces were fresh.

[tenargo57]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Improperly torqued lug nuts will do it. No mention of this in the article..

First page

I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not

[Need4Camaro]

I don't ride the brakes.

I am now getting a odd knocking/rattling sound when cruising at low speeds. It makes itself more prevelant when I tap the brakes, make a turn or hit a bump, like something is insecure somewhere. I made sure the calipers were on there securely and they seem to be. What else should I check?

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro

I don't ride the brakes.

I am now getting a odd knocking/rattling sound when cruising at low speeds. It makes itself more prevelant when I tap the brakes, make a turn or hit a bump, like something is insecure somewhere. I made sure the calipers were on there securely and they seem to be. What else should I check?

These are still original rotors, right? You got new pads (semi-metallic), but how many miles on those rotors?
The pads really just "float" next to the rotors when not applied, so you can get vibration at cruise. You would have to check rotor runout to confirm, but might as well replace the rotors if you pull them.
My google project for today will be to check if the metals in metallic pads and rotors can encourage galvanic corrosion. Just a thought, as corrosion will cause thickness variation.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by tenargo57

First page

No, and your bold highlight is talking about hats, not lug nut torque. What is says right below that is that the article presumes that the lug nuts are "installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification"

In their rush to sell their pads, they skip the important point that IMPROPERLY torqued nuts cause are the #1 cause of warped rotors. Well of course the author's confirmation bias has "never seen one" when it's all in good condition and installed correctly. Well no shit sherlock, rotors in "good condition" by definition are not warped.

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

These are still original rotors, right? You got new pads (semi-metallic), but how many miles on those rotors?
The pads really just "float" next to the rotors when not applied, so you can get vibration at cruise. You would have to check rotor runout to confirm, but might as well replace the rotors if you pull them.
My google project for today will be to check if the metals in metallic pads and rotors can encourage galvanic corrosion. Just a thought, as corrosion will cause thickness variation.

Rotors and pads were both replaced at the same time both last year and this year too.

I did go ahead and burnish them last night at 1am on a lonely high speed limit road way, was mainly hoping a cop wouldn't spot me and think I was DUI but after burnishing them alot of the vibration when braking went away. Its still somewhat there but nowhere near as bad.

The knocking and rattling however is another story. I cant tell if its normal or not.

[Whoomba]

If you’ve had this answer sorry. I had a Chevy truck that was doing that. Turns out the pins the caliper rode on were all gummed up and were not sliding like they should, holding the pad in and creating heat.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Whoomba

If you’ve had this answer sorry. I had a Chevy truck that was doing that. Turns out the pins the caliper rode on were all gummed up and were not sliding like they should, holding the pad in and creating heat.

He's got a 2SS, so he's got the brembros. The caliper is a little different in that there are 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside which push on the pads. Conventional single piston calipers have the piston on the inside and the outer bit moves on glide pins which must be properly lubricated and have their boots intact to prevent water intrusion.