[HouseStark]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

What happends if you spent $5000+ on coatings, then someone hits you and they total out your car. I bet their insurance company (if they even have insurance) won't pay for your new car to get it. I just got my front repainted and the grill replaced, I though a long time about how I just have to get PPF, but I don't trust that it will actually protect it. I have to drive on the highway everyday, all of the hours and manual effort i've spent with waxing, polishing, claying, and compounding I havent noticed any benefits besides the car looking good until it rains. Its so frustrating how many times I've waxed and bought in to the "protection" and "water beading" effects. I've noticed absolutely no protection from anything.

If you drive on the highway your car is runied
If you drive in the rain your car is runined
If you (or are forced to) drive on a road that is milled your car is ruined

It just makes you want to give up when you realize just how fragile your car is. I think the better strategy is to try and cover up and mask the defects and micro scratches, it is just way too much effort and money to try to remove them.

I think my strategy now that I have $3000 plus of work will be to stay far away from any other cars especially on the highway, I think this will be way more effective problem is it may be the hardest thing to do haha

Yeah I think at this point I'm giving up the obsession with it. Adam's Ceramic wax, wash with their soap, dry with their towels, and spray coat with Ceramic Boost during drying and that's it. This stuff is way too expensive to still have to worry about swirls marks and water spotting.

[CatchMyZ]

I've considered it before, but I've always been afraid to use a leaf blower to help dry due to the fact it sucks in whatever may be in the air and shoots it at your fresh paint. You guys that mentioned it, do you do anything to prevent the blower from sucking in particles, like cover the intake with some kind of mesh or something?
I completely agree about the microfibers...it's very frustrating when I have new towels and as soon as there is anything on them, they will never be clean again.
Thanks for all the great info as always!

[Emoto]

I don't own a leaf blower, but I have used my air compressor with a nozzle to blow water off of motorcycles to dry them and get water out of nooks and crannies. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-148-.../dp/B001XBI1E2

I have not tried it on the Camaro, as my waffle weave mf towells seem to work well.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by Emoto

I don't own a leaf blower, but I have used my air compressor with a nozzle to blow water off of motorcycles to dry them and get water out of nooks and crannies. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-148-.../dp/B001XBI1E2

I have not tried it on the Camaro, as my waffle weave mf towells seem to work well.

This is a really bad idea for car paint. The inside of the compressor tank is rust from the water condensing from the air. Unless you have a quality water and sediment filter inline with your air line, you will be sandblasting your paint with rust particles.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by CatchMyZ

I've considered it before, but I've always been afraid to use a leaf blower to help dry due to the fact it sucks in whatever may be in the air and shoots it at your fresh paint. You guys that mentioned it, do you do anything to prevent the blower from sucking in particles, like cover the intake with some kind of mesh or something?
I completely agree about the microfibers...it's very frustrating when I have new towels and as soon as there is anything on them, they will never be clean again.
Thanks for all the great info as always!

Leaf blowers even the cheap Harbor Freight ones do a great job blowing water out of grilles, wheels, emblems, mirrors, etc.

I don't use them to blow off the panels just because it's not really any faster than a towel.

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by KirkH

This is a really bad idea for car paint. The inside of the compressor tank is rust from the water condensing from the air. Unless you have a quality water and sediment filter inline with your air line, you will be sandblasting your paint with rust particles.

You must have dealt with some nasty-ass compressors, LOL. Were I going to do this, I would first try aiming the nozzle at some white cloth, like cheesecloth, to verify what is coming out (or not). I would bet money that my compressor is not spewing nasty particulates like rust flakes.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by Emoto

You must have dealt with some nasty-ass compressors, LOL. Were I going to do this, I would first try aiming the nozzle at some white cloth, like cheesecloth, to verify what is coming out (or not). I would bet money that my compressor is not spewing nasty particulates like rust flakes.

I use air to blow out engines and for carpet shampooing. I have a filter installed in the line.

If you drain your air tank after each use, you may not have a rusty tank. However, if you don't empty the air after each use, those tanks get rusty in no time.



Everyone should have one of these installed anyway, but especially if you are painting with a cheap air compressor:

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Filter-...07773089&psc=1

[kodiakk]

Luckily, I came here very early into my Camaro 50 and followed Glens advice. I use stuff purchased at a Canadian tire and wash my car once a week. I wax it every 6 or so washes and it looks better by fat than the day it came off the showroom floor. I have my own polishers and have done a full correction just for perfection purposes and love the results. I use a leaf blower and as long as the wax is good the water sheets off in about 4 minutes. I wont use a compressor as I believe what Kirk said to be true as well as if you feel the air coming out you can feel a oil film as well. I don't do ceramic as the cost is not worth the result, I can achieve the same shine traditionally without the cost. I DD my car year round and in the harsh Canadian winters and you would never know it. If I am going to a show, I up the grade of wax and dry with a high quality towel for awesome results. I liked what Glen said about driving and enjoying the car versus washing and maintaining it for hour at a time. Once you get into a routine/rhythm it is quite easy. relax and enjoy sir.

[protovack]

the only thing you are doing wrong is caring too much. You cannot possibly compensate for the terrible paint quality of OEMs these days. I've been through all of it, buying all the products, paint correction. It's all pointless on newer cars. Now I just wash mine with regular bargain car soap and white terry cotton towels thats it, nothing else. Save yourself thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of worrying and pointless work. Soap and terry towels, the kind you buy in a big bag for cheap. They aren't super durable and will wear out, but I get around 50 uses out of one towel. Just bleach and wash on hot. And if you REALLY want to spend the effort, you can do a traditional hand wax with just a normal car wax.

[Guns F16]

Good info here. For those that use CarPro Hydr02 on a 1LE, are there any issues with getting this stuff on the matte hood? I'm assuming it's not wise to apply it directly to the hood, but what about runoff from the roof? Thanks!

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Keeping the finish on a car with a black base coat is difficult.....black is the best looking color though on a swirl free paint job....nothing looks better.

Most swirls and scratches are caused by improperly washing/drying the car. I bought my 2012 Camaro 2 years old, got a great deal on it, primarily because the paint looked like this...…



After many hours of compounding/polishing, I was able to get it to this.....




Maintaining the finish is now the most important part.....my car isn't a garage queen...it's a daily driver....I also frequently take it to the drag strip....it's usually washed at least once a week....here is the process to wash your car to minimize marring on the paint.....it's not stated in the video, but the use of pressure while washing is a BIG NO-NO.....the ONLY time you should EVER use pressure on your paint is when compounding.....Glide your wash mitt across the paint with NO pressure.




Before I dry the car with a towel, I always do a pooling rinse......this removes 90% or more of the water on the surface, leaving very little water to dry.....again...NO PRESSURE is used when drying the water left...the ONLY pressure I use is from my cordless blower to get the water out from the places it hides.




After a year's time I go back over the paint with finishing polish, to remove very light wash marring...….you will need to look very close to see it in the first picture......second picture is completed.....again remember....this car is not garaged......I drive the HELL out of it..and enjoy it.

[JBinSD]

Any data to support the assertion that pressure washing is bad for the paint? I almost always pressure-rinse after soaping up my cars, then use a leaf blower, followed by a MF with some QD. I was initially concerned with all the forced-impact on my surfaces, but haven't observed any damage over the years. . . .

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by JBinSD

Any data to support the assertion that pressure washing is bad for the paint? I almost always pressure-rinse after soaping up my cars, then use a leaf blower, followed by a MF with some QD. I was initially concerned with all the forced-impact on my surfaces, but haven't observed any damage over the years. . . .

A couple of things:

If you have a paint chip, pressure washer can make it worse.

Pressure washer will trash the rubber exterior window seals.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by JBinSD

Any data to support the assertion that pressure washing is bad for the paint? I almost always pressure-rinse after soaping up my cars, then use a leaf blower, followed by a MF with some QD. I was initially concerned with all the forced-impact on my surfaces, but haven't observed any damage over the years. . . .

Sorry for the misunderstanding. What I meant was while washing.....not rinsing.....you don't want to rub the surface using pressure with your wash mitt.

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

.....it's not stated in the video, but the use of pressure while washing is a BIG NO-NO..the ONLY time you should EVER use pressure on your paint is when compounding.....Glide your wash mitt across the paint with NO pressure....

Using a pressure washer for rinsing is OK as long as you maintain a proper distance from the car, about 4-5 feet, and don't use one with over 1800 PSI.....as mentioned by Kirk, you can cause damage with a pressure washer on certain areas as well, and these should be avoided when using one.

I actually find it faster to rinse off the pre-soak, and post-hand wash with just the garden sprayer attached vs. the pressure washer. So I only use my pressure washer for pre-soak foaming.

You can also do this "soft touch" procedure using Glen's rinseless method, and avoid marring up your paint......spray your panel with a little pre-soak, wipe gently, and roll the towel as you wipe.

Using a lot of pressure doing either method will cause much more marring over time vs. gently removing.