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Old 04-28-2021, 12:50 PM   #15
Idaho2018GTPremium

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
Coming from someone that had a 1000+ HP Hellcat, I can tell you that you need to be realistic about what you want to do with the car. I started off small too, then you just keep adding more power chasing numbers until you realize that your street driven car is no longer fun to drive on the street anymore because traction doesn't exist. You can have a 1000hp and a 500hp car blow your doors off from a red light because you can't get the power down and that's really frustrating. Running drag radials is an option but there comes a point when even a Nitto 555R2 (which is the best street driven drag radial) won't hook up anymore and then the only choice is a Mickey Thompson ET Street R. When you get to that point, you're no longer going to be able to drive the car on the street anymore because the soft rubber doesn't last and the MT ET Street R's really can't be driven in the rain.

All this comes down to, don't let your ego get the best of you. Bragging rights is cool for a bit but doesn't matter much anymore when you've already told everyone what you have and then you can't really get the power down to enjoy it. You'll likely end up regretting going too far for your intended purpose.

I really can't stress this enough, be honest with yourself about what you want to do with the car and just build accordingly. 700whp is a LOT in these cars and will give you smiles every time you drive it.
I agree with this. When I had my 2018 Mustang GT (A10, PP1, MagneRide), the guys on the Mustang forums that were supercharged (700+rwhp) were often commenting about how they couldn't put the power down, spinning at 70+ mph, and could barely do 0-60 in the low 4 seconds range because of traction limitations. When I was bone stock I did 0-60 in 3.80 seconds on Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ tires.

Also, isn't putting drag radials on a ZL1 somewhat defeating the purpose of a ZL1 being a "triple threat"? I guess if you don't care about taking turns... but I drive on twisty roads a lot, so drag radials aren't for me.
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1995 Pontiac Trans Am
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Old 04-28-2021, 02:16 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium View Post
... I drive on twisty roads a lot, so drag radials aren't for me.
Although this car has never had a drag radial on it, I gave the OEM GEF1S3R's a shot as a street tire but they turned out to be the most dangerous tire I've ever driven. As long as it was hot and dry they were good, but, if someone spits on the road, traction is gone.

The Michelin Pilot Sport 4S is a great wet/dry, street/road course, tire but not so good at the strip. I'll buy a set of real GY race slicks for that.
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
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100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 04-28-2021, 08:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
Although this car has never had a drag radial on it, I gave the OEM GEF1S3R's a shot as a street tire but they turned out to be the most dangerous tire I've ever driven. As long as it was hot and dry they were good, but, if someone spits on the road, traction is gone.

The Michelin Pilot Sport 4S is a great wet/dry, street/road course, tire but not so good at the strip. I'll buy a set of real GY race slicks for that.
I haven't driven my ZL1 in rain yet, but are not the regular Supercar 3s much better in the rain than then 3Rs?
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Old 04-28-2021, 08:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium View Post
I haven't driven my ZL1 in rain yet, but are not the regular Supercar 3s much better in the rain than then 3Rs?
I haven't had any issues so far with my Supercar 3s in the rain.
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Old 04-28-2021, 08:33 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium View Post
I haven't driven my ZL1 in rain yet, but are not the regular Supercar 3s much better in the rain than then 3Rs?
The Super Car 3 is a Extreme Performance Summer tire that rates well below other tires in its category such as Hankook Ventus R-S4.

The 4S is a Max Performance Summer that has better performance numbers than perhaps any tire. It is not a winter tire.

If you want a tire for street use in all weather except ice/snow, and maybe a little road course, go with the 4S. Tire Racks say it's "simply the best." I've driven it since it came out.
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
I haven't had any issues so far with my Supercar 3s in the rain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium View Post
I haven't driven my ZL1 in rain yet, but are not the regular Supercar 3s much better in the rain than then 3Rs?
Both stock Goodyear tires are not meant to be driven in the rain nor below 50 degrees or around that. You can buy you're going to be struggling. Only thing that does better than them on that road course are racing slicks.

It's been said many of times on here and by GM to not drive them in rain or cold weather but do what you want with also knowing the risk. As mentioned, they are extreme summer tires that do very, very good in dry, hot conditions when brought up to temp but have a low tread wear rating.
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Old 05-03-2021, 02:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Vigilante375 View Post
Both stock Goodyear tires are not meant to be driven in the rain nor below 50 degrees or around that. You can buy you're going to be struggling. Only thing that does better than them on that road course are racing slicks.

It's been said many of times on here and by GM to not drive them in rain or cold weather but do what you want with also knowing the risk. As mentioned, they are extreme summer tires that do very, very good in dry, hot conditions when brought up to temp but have a low tread wear rating.
I completely agree any ultra summer tire will be terrible in cold weather, even the respected Michelin Pilot Sport 4S which I had on my 18 Mustang GT w/ PP1 and MagneRide slide around easily below about 45 F, which is why I used Pilot sport A/S 3+ for cold weather on my Mustang. However, the ZL1 Supercar 3 tires, and many performance summer tires, are designed, supposedly, for warm dry and wet conditions (but not cold, obviously):

From Tirerack on the Supercar 3: "The Eagle F1 SuperCar 3 is engineered to excel on the street or track in warm, dry and wet conditions, and like all Extreme Performance Summer tires, it is not intended to be serviced, stored nor driven in near-and below-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.

Utilizing a high-grip, race-inspired tread compound provides the Eagle F1 Supercar 3 with impressive traction in dry and wet conditions..."

For comparison, the PS4S description from Tirerack: "The Pilot Sport 4S excels in warm dry and wet conditions, so like all Max Performance Summer tires, is not intended to be serviced, stored nor driven in near- and below-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice."

The 3Rs, on the other hand, come w/ a wet road warning: "Warning: Eagle F1 Supercar 3R radials meet DOT requirements, however, they are not recommended for driving in wet conditions..."

The Michelin PS4S on my Mustang were pretty good in the rain, but they weren't as wide as the ZL1's Supercar 3 tires. Also, the PS4S have a lot more siping, so I think tire to tire they will be better than the Supercar 3 in the rain. That said, looking at the 3 tread, I agree they are probably not that good in the rain due to a lack of adequate water channels. I agree it would be best to avoid standing water w/ the SC3.
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Old 05-03-2021, 03:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vigilante375 View Post
Both stock Goodyear tires are not meant to be driven in the rain nor below 50 degrees or around that. You can buy you're going to be struggling. Only thing that does better than them on that road course are racing slicks.

It's been said many of times on here and by GM to not drive them in rain or cold weather but do what you want with also knowing the risk. As mentioned, they are extreme summer tires that do very, very good in dry, hot conditions when brought up to temp but have a low tread wear rating.
No one here is using all season tires on these cars. All of the tire suggestions that have been given are Max Performance Summer tires so the stock GY SC3s are no different in that regard. The GY SC3Rs are different and meant only for dry weather and track performance which is why they only come on the 1LE. That being said, as I've stated, I've had no issues with my SC3s thus far driving in what I consider to be normal rain. If it was a torrential flood, that's a different story in which case all tires will struggle, just some more than others.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
No one here is using all season tires on these cars. All of the tire suggestions that have been given are Max Performance Summer tires so the stock GY SC3s are no different in that regard. The GY SC3Rs are different and meant only for dry weather and track performance which is why they only come on the 1LE. That being said, as I've stated, I've had no issues with my SC3s thus far driving in what I consider to be normal rain. If it was a torrential flood, that's a different story in which case all tires will struggle, just some more than others.
Never did I mention all seasons.

What makes these tires different from other extreme performance tires is the compound and the tread depth and rating.

I'm certain 5000 miles on my Pirelli P Zero tires will do a lot better than your 5000 mile SC3s in rainy weather. That's the difference people seem to forget.

Not doubting the SC3s ability to be used in the rain but since I drive my car year round, in all conditions, I feel more confident in not using the SC3s and tracking the mileage and knowing I'm due to change the tires at around 7k or 9k miles.

Can't believe we're still going on about this. Oh well.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
Coming from someone that had a 1000+ HP Hellcat, I can tell you that you need to be realistic about what you want to do with the car. I started off small too, then you just keep adding more power chasing numbers until you realize that your street driven car is no longer fun to drive on the street anymore because traction doesn't exist. You can have a 1000hp and a 500hp car blow your doors off from a red light because you can't get the power down and that's really frustrating. Running drag radials is an option but there comes a point when even a Nitto 555R2 (which is the best street driven drag radial) won't hook up anymore and then the only choice is a Mickey Thompson ET Street R. When you get to that point, you're no longer going to be able to drive the car on the street anymore because the soft rubber doesn't last and the MT ET Street R's really can't be driven in the rain.

All this comes down to, don't let your ego get the best of you. Bragging rights is cool for a bit but doesn't matter much anymore when you've already told everyone what you have and then you can't really get the power down to enjoy it. You'll likely end up regretting going too far for your intended purpose.

I really can't stress this enough, be honest with yourself about what you want to do with the car and just build accordingly. 700whp is a LOT in these cars and will give you smiles every time you drive it.
I agree with Z OH 6. I'm at 630 RWHP and I have Nitto NT555R2 drag radials. They are definitely better for traction than the stock F1's, but I still have issues hooking up. See my mods in my sig. I'm contemplating just doing Kooks 2" long tubes, gutted cats and maybe a 103mm throttle body and ported stock supercharger and calling it a day. I really don't want to alter the stock fuel system if at all possible. I don't race at the dragstrip anymore and I don't feel the need to prove anything on the street. There is something to just having a cool, reliable, fun car without going overboard.
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Hawk Performance ceramic brake pads
Roto-Fab Big Gulp cold air
E85 flex fuel
Low temp thermostat
Nitto NT555R2 drag radials
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Old 05-10-2021, 07:18 PM   #25
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If yes my choice will either be a stage 2 or 3.
I'm thinking stage 2 will probably be the way to go I'm hearing the stage 3 would need higher stall torque converter.....
Do they even make any for this car?
However since the transmission will be retuned will that allow for a stage three if desired?
A friend of mine is recommending a cam made by GPI. Anyone familiar with them?
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Old 05-10-2021, 07:33 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Grumpy1 View Post
If yes my choice will either be a stage 2 or 3.
I'm thinking stage 2 will probably be the way to go I'm hearing the stage 3 would need higher stall torque converter.....
Do they even make any for this car?
However since the transmission will be retuned will that allow for a stage three if desired?
A friend of mine is recommending a cam made by GPI. Anyone familiar with them?
Yes, they do make higher stall converters.
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