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Old 03-30-2018, 10:05 PM   #43
baron95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Provoste View Post
I'm actually about to pull the trigger on a set of 19's. Only reason I'm going w/ 19's, is that I want to be able to run 305 street tires, and there aren't many good 305 options for 18's aside from NT01's (not a true street tire). I'm going with 19 x 10.5 et22 Apex wheels, and will be running Hankook RS4 305/30 square. RS4's are incredible durable, and I can get the most out of a set by being able to rotate front to rear. I just wish they made an RS4 that fit the OE SS 1LE wheels!
That is an interesting setup. I used to run Hankook RS3 on my Mustang GT (previous tire from the RS4) in a square setup and they lasted a long time with the rotation.

And the best thing about a square setup, I had a 5th wheel and tossed it as a spare. Once I had a flat on track, and having the 5th wheel meant my day wasn't ruined.

Are you going to need a spacer in front? Are the studs long enough to engage the nuts with the spacer?
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Old 05-06-2019, 07:49 PM   #44
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So first, yes I read the whole post and still have a question. Do you or dont you need to buy "camber adjustment bolts" to get -2° front camber? Firestone could only get to -1.6° on the front and the tech handed me a print-out from their computer saying additional parts were needed. After having read multiple posts abd the manual I told him he was wrong. Do I need to apologize?
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Old 05-06-2019, 08:04 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Jimbeau11 View Post
So first, yes I read the whole post and still have a question. Do you or dont you need to buy "camber adjustment bolts" to get -2° front camber? Firestone could only get to -1.6° on the front and the tech handed me a print-out from their computer saying additional parts were needed. After having read multiple posts abd the manual I told him he was wrong. Do I need to apologize?

No, tell him he needs to use a hammer to knock back the camber adjustment bolt on the front strut to get more negative camber. The bolt has splines that make camber changes very difficult unless you back the bolt out past those splines. You can definitely get -2.3 minimum with 100% factory car.
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Old 05-06-2019, 10:40 PM   #46
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+1. I got 2.6 on stock bolts at a dealer.
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:11 AM   #47
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Thanks guys!
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:53 PM   #48
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What's the trick to get idiot alignment shops to perform the alignment correctly? I know for a fact having read up on how to perform the alignment with the stock eccentric bolts and holes, that it is relatively easy but time consuming. For some reason the townie couldnt understand that you only need the single eccentric hole in the McPherson strut on the upper bolt hole where it connects to the spindle.

The dude was trying to say that I needed extra eccentric bolts for the front struts and an extra bolt that goes into the top hole of the front spindle, the hole that is perpendicular to the direction of motion of the car.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:14 PM   #49
Tim M

 
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You get what you pay for...cheap alignment = cheap alignment. I've been forced to go to these shops and attempt to help them by providing print outs of the torque values and what bolts to adjust - this helps considerably. I usually leave on the seat in the car or provide directly to the tech.

In their defense, they are judged on speed, not necessarily quality. They are expected to know hundreds of cars and their computer data bases may not necessarily know the Camaro 'Performance Supplement', etc.

An extra $20 goes along ways too...:-)
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:43 AM   #50
JeromeS13

 
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Originally Posted by Cujo159 View Post
What's the trick to get idiot alignment shops to perform the alignment correctly?
I maxed out my front camber at home, BEFORE I took it in for the alignment.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:01 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cujo159 View Post
The dude was trying to say that I needed extra eccentric bolts for the front struts and an extra bolt that goes into the top hole of the front spindle, the hole that is perpendicular to the direction of motion of the car.
Seems to me that tapped hole is used to push the camber LESS negative, so not really a thing you'll likely be wanting when doing a track alignment.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:57 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
I maxed out my front camber at home, BEFORE I took it in for the alignment.
That's what I wish I had done.

Tech: There's no camber adjustment

Me: So why is one side at -0.8 and the other at -1.4?
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:58 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnta1ss View Post
Seems to me that tapped hole is used to push the camber LESS negative, so not really a thing you'll likely be wanting when doing a track alignment.
Correct, or it could be a mount for a specialty tool like a slide hammer to help get the correct camber value.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:46 AM   #54
Move_Over

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cujo159 View Post
That's what I wish I had done.

Tech: There's no camber adjustment

Me: So why is one side at -0.8 and the other at -1.4?

I would 100% find a new shop if the tech working on your car can't see that. I'm not terribly far from you and there is 3 shops i'd recommend here in Orlando.

Chi and the crew at Dynasty Automotive (probably the closest to you, right off 408 on 50) they do good work, just tough to get them scheduled. Philips tire and Auto in Fern Park, my latest favorite (least expensive of the bunch but they set up all race cars and lewis lets you watch what he's doing), and Drivers Choice in longwood ($130 for an alignment, but they do high end race Porsche's and the like).
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:48 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cujo159 View Post
Correct, or it could be a mount for a specialty tool like a slide hammer to help get the correct camber value.
Since i have ground camber slots for additional camber, I actually used that hole as a set screw to prevent any slippage of the knuckle back toward the strut.
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:22 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnta1ss View Post
Seems to me that tapped hole is used to push the camber LESS negative, so not really a thing you'll likely be wanting when doing a track alignment.
That hole is just for a bolt to help with alignment as Move_Over mentioned. Yes, if you thread a bolt all the way in you'll get more positive camber, but when doing an alignment it's a good idea to put a bolt in there with a little bit of preload so you you can take some of the stress out of the strut/knuckle bolt before pushing them out (helps save the threads/splines). From there you just loosen the top bolt to get more negative camber. This keeps you from slamming the knuckle around under the weight of the car once the strut/knuckle bolts are out and also makes it really easy to dial in the camber to match left and right sides.
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