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Old 03-25-2020, 10:08 PM   #1
cmitchell17
 
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Coolant Leak from Broken Oil Cooler Lines or Oil Pump Damage

Edit: So ended up actually being the rubber hose that connects the metal coolant line that comes from the water pump and connects the other metal line that goes to the oil cooler. It had a cut in it almost all the length of it. After thinking about it I believe the problem was caused by me, I don't know of any other way this could have happen. About probably over a month ago I lifted the car up and pressure washed underneath it and I got to obsessive about trying to get dirt and grease off. I usually never use the yellow nozzle (2600 psi) but I did this time trying to get grease off, so I think I got to close to this hose while washing underneath and it cut it open, that's the only way I think this could have happened. So hopefully this will be a lesson for me and everyone else to always pay attention when you are pressure washing and you can cause a lot of damage. Its funny how you can pressure wash something with the highest pressure right up close to it and after it dries it will still look dirty and have dirt on it, but then it will easily cut right through stuff and you don't even notice. I would like to try a hot water pressure washer but that's a different story.


So some really bad stuff happened tonight. I'm posting this here because I'm almost positive this problem was caused by me putting in my cam and heads and screwing something up. Even though I put everything back over 2 months ago and have put around 3000 miles so far with 0 issues.

So I haven't driven it in a few days and have been working from home. So I get in and fortunately I have my computer trying to do some logging to fix the idle. So everything seems normal until I notice I have no heat. Then I pull up into the store and notice my fans are on high. With the dummy (useless gauges for idiots) not actually showing your true temperature so people won't freak out if the gauge moves back and forth I didn't realize the coolant was pretty hot at about 220F, then I looked at the scanner and saw the oil at 260F so then I knew something is bad. I opened the hood to check for coolant and there is none and I notice is leaking everywhere up underneath.

What I really should was had it towed back home, its never worth the risk of overheating and ruining the motor, but I was really close to home, so I got some water and kept on filling it up and idled/limped it back home. Coolant stayed pretty steady at about 230F, but I was trying to be as easy as possible and at some points oil temp got into the 280-290F range. Everytime I would stop and pour water in the reservoir it would immediately start coming out from somewhere on the road from the bottom of the car, so I am hoping it is just a line somehow came off.

I got it back to my garage and put it on jackstands and everything looks fine except for the coolant everywhere, and the oil definately smells burnt, I intend to change it but thats the least of my worries now.

When doing my cam I had to do a lot of wiggling to get the stupid metal pipe out of the way to pull the timing cover off, this is the metal pipe that runs from the water pump to the oil heat exchanger. Everything looks fine from what I can see but unfortunately there is a lot of the pipe and lines I can't see.

The weird part is on my way trying to limp it home it threw a code, P06DD, for "Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off". Now I believe the "fail safe" state of the switch would be to go to high oil pressure. When I was limping home oil pressure was in the 20s at cruise and I believe may have been around 10 or so looking at the logs at idle. I can somewhat expect lower oil pressure as hot as its getting though.

I also know there is a TSB for the oil pump face being worn or the tensioner guide being to short:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...80702-2280.pdf
The TSB is really not clear as it indicates symptoms may be "low oil pressure" but if the pump is not able to switch the control switch on I would think the oil pressure would stay in the high mode? It appears this TSB only applied to the 2016s, I have a 2017 although it was an early build.

So my theory is that by wiggling on the metal coolant tube so much trying to get the timing cover off I messed up a joint and its now leaking after 2 months. Somehow when it got hot it somehow triggered the TSB? I'm really hoping this is the case and not that I am going to have to tear this thing down again and possible pull the oil pan off and put another pump on. I never pulled the oil pan to put the cam in, I just loosened the oil pump bolts to get a little room to pull the timing gear off, I also did use the overly expensive oil pump alignment tool, so I really don't think my oil pump is misaligned. It just dosen't make sense why I got the oil pump switch code? I will be taking the bottom aluminum protection plate off and the airflow covers off tomarrow when it cools so hopefully I can get a better look if somehow its just a hose loose, which I really hope it is.

One more thing, I know the trucks calculate the oil temperature, I think the Corvette and Camaro LT1s have an actual temp sensor? Anyway hopefully the DTC setting is just a consequence of having the oil too hot maybe.

Last edited by cmitchell17; 03-26-2020 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:56 PM   #2
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Ok so it appears my problem was right in front of me:
Name:  IMG_20200325_234605.jpg
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Now I can't be 100% certain, I may have another problem and somehow this line ruptured because of that but I don't think thats likely.

Has anyone else seen this? I mean its ripped all the way through cleanly, I just don't see what could have caused this. Usually when I see radiator hoses fail they get like pinhole leaks, this almost looks like it was under a lot of pressure?
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:59 PM   #3
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Is the fluid actually pumping through the system or do you have some sort of blockage somewhere? I dont know if a blockage could cause that much backpressure but maybe?
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lDejavul View Post
Is the fluid actually pumping through the system or do you have some sort of blockage somewhere? I dont know if a blockage could cause that much backpressure but maybe?
I can't really tell, I know it isn't going through the heater core, you would think the system would be designed for that kind of thing.

Anyway, I am going to try to pull it off today, I guess I will just get a regular section of coolant hose from the parts store to replace it.
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Old 03-26-2020, 10:25 PM   #5
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So I got a new hose back in and everything seems ok, now I am just worried if I did damage to the oil and maybe should change it. According the GM's oil life monitor I don't think it really changed the oil life that much I can't really remember where is was before though.
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Old 03-27-2020, 03:41 AM   #6
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You’d think If it surpassed a certain temp threshold it would send it to 0, no?
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post
So I got a new hose back in and everything seems ok, now I am just worried if I did damage to the oil and maybe should change it. According the GM's oil life monitor I don't think it really changed the oil life that much I can't really remember where is was before though.
Easy answer for me. I'd change the oil for peace of mind. No need to lose sleep sweating something as easy as an oil change. I wouldn't rely on the OLM in your case. You know the oil got really hot and have mentioned it smelled burned. Just change it - you'll feel better.
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Old 03-27-2020, 08:11 AM   #8
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Same thing happened to me this winter at around 42,000 miles. I was getting onto the highway and then (I thought it was smoke at the time) coolant vapor started billowing out of the back of my car. Pulled over, shut the car off. I couldn't see any issues, so I drove the last couple miles to work. On the way, my heater started blowing cold air so I immediately knew the heater core was empty. Luckily the temperatures were freezing that day so my oil temp never spiked. I had the car towed to the dealer and they fixed the hose for around $279 (crazy price imo), but I did get a free courtesy car for a week. They said the hose was likely damaged by the shop that put the headers in my car, but I don't really believe that theory cause the hose doesn't run near the header.

Anyways if your oil temp spiked change it. Also monitor your coolant level to make sure you don't have a damaged head gasket or cracked head.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:51 AM   #9
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Don't quote me, but I could of swore there was a report somewhere of that hose being prone to fail.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:02 AM   #10
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If that’s the case I might want to change mine nowish regardless.

Can anyone help me locate this hose? I’m having issues understanding where this is exactly
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue View Post
If thatís the case I might want to change mine nowish regardless.

Can anyone help me locate this hose? Iím having issues understanding where this is exactly
It's near the oil filter area since the hose connects two of the metal oil cooler lines.
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:45 AM   #12
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That looks like standard heater line hose- a straight piece. I don't see that its molded.
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:43 PM   #13
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So yeah I think we should maybe make this a sticky? Or either put it in the maintenance section?

Also having one of these will make the job a lot lot easier:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/8139...hoC9z8QAvD_BwE
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Old 04-21-2020, 08:02 AM   #14
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Around what mileage is it failing at?

If that is known more people can keep an eye on it/change it before it wears out.


Ususally, it's in a fairly consistent range.
I know on my Dmax Silverado there were a few items that hit most of the engines at pretty much the same mileage.
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