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Old 05-31-2019, 08:59 AM   #1
152LTRockin
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Coolant Flow Diagram

Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram for the LFX engine they could post? I want to bypass the heater core completely and need to know if I have to use a bypass or not. Some you do and some you don't. I looked all over the net and can't find any info on the coolant flow. TY
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:52 PM   #2
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Sorry don't have a diagram. Did come across a couple of swap guys that used freeze plugs to close the heater holes out of the block. As an alternative,, if you swaped in the the CTS hard lines coming out of the block it'd be easy to do a 'U' hose.

See post 250,, has part numbers as well

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ze#post1330660

See post 12

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...4/#post1523785

See post 336 for CTS hard lines.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...117334&page=24
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Old 06-03-2019, 06:27 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info but what I want to know is if I need to use a bypass. Some systems need a constant flow through the lines to cool the cyl heads and some don't because there is a bypass built into the system besides the heater core lines. Small block chevys are like this, you can cap the lines because there is a internal bypass that allows coolant to flow in the cyl heads. I'm not sure on this 3.6, I can add either a block off valve or a bypass valve. I'd rather use a adjustable block off valve, its a lot less plumbing that a bypass valve. What I did for now was install a restrictor in the feed hose, it helps a lot and I don't detect anything running hotter. The heater core in these cars just kills the AC efficiency, just restricting the flow helped a lot but I want to shut it off completely in the summer. Shutting off the car hot with the heater core full of 200 degree coolant also makes for a very hot car when you come back in a hr to use the car. Very poor design!

Thanks for that CTS motor swap info, great read!
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Old 06-04-2019, 08:51 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by 152LTRockin View Post
Thanks for the info but what I want to know is if I need to use a bypass.
Maybe I'm missing something,, I normally do. The first two threads listed the builders block off the heater core with freeze plugs. Does that not show that a bypass isn't needed?? You may want to reach out to them to make sure there's no overheating but I'm pretty sure it works OK. The guy in the first thread is tearing up tracks all over the west coast.

As a sidebar,, the hot water flows the same way in my FRS which I'm swapping the LFX into. It seems silly that it's always circulating inside the evaporator but it does. As I live in the tropics so to speak, I thought about just plugging the ports on the LFX as shown above but you never know when you may need it.

http://youtu.be/AK4XebNC7sk

Last edited by gtpvette; 06-04-2019 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:51 AM   #5
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Sending you a PM that might help
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpvette View Post
Maybe I'm missing something,, I normally do. The first two threads listed the builders block off the heater core with freeze plugs. Does that not show that a bypass isn't needed?? You may want to reach out to them to make sure there's no overheating but I'm pretty sure it works OK. The guy in the first thread is tearing up tracks all over the west coast.

As a sidebar,, the hot water flows the same way in my FRS which I'm swapping the LFX into. It seems silly that it's always circulating inside the evaporator but it does. As I live in the tropics so to speak, I thought about just plugging the ports on the LFX as shown above but you never know when you may need it.

http://youtu.be/AK4XebNC7sk
Put a water valve with pipe to hose adapters in-line on the core feed hose. Open and close as desired.
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Old 06-04-2019, 11:12 AM   #7
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Great info, I'm going to install the simple shut off valve. Actually I'm going to just let it cracked open a tad for summer use for cold mornings-cool evenings. The difference inside the car when in hot weather is NOTICABLE. Without any restriction on a 85 degree day after driving the car then parking it for 15 mins or so then getting back into drive is crazy. 1st time I did this I thought something broke in the HVAC system. Then I also started to realize with the HVAC set to vent its NEVER as cool as outside air. I thought at 1st broken air door etc but after checking everything I realized its the heater core sitting in the center of the dash cooking everything. Try this: shut the car off hot let it sit for 15mins then restart the car set HVAC to vent. What you are going to get is HOT HOT air for at least 5-10 mins then warm air after! Who ever designed this system did a terrible job!
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Old 06-04-2019, 11:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpvette View Post
Maybe I'm missing something,, I normally do. The first two threads listed the builders block off the heater core with freeze plugs. Does that not show that a bypass isn't needed?? You may want to reach out to them to make sure there's no overheating but I'm pretty sure it works OK. The guy in the first thread is tearing up tracks all over the west coast.

As a sidebar,, the hot water flows the same way in my FRS which I'm swapping the LFX into. It seems silly that it's always circulating inside the evaporator but it does. As I live in the tropics so to speak, I thought about just plugging the ports on the LFX as shown above but you never know when you may need it.

http://youtu.be/AK4XebNC7sk
TY I just didn't look close enough yet. NAPA has a nice shut off valve for 20 dollars. Metal -660-1301 or plastic 660-1140
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 152LTRockin View Post
Great info, I'm going to install the simple shut off valve. Actually I'm going to just let it cracked open a tad for summer use for cold mornings-cool evenings.

...
Most shut-off valves leak when not fully seated. You will still get some heat transfer when it is closed.
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Old 06-05-2019, 04:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 152LTRockin View Post
Great info, I'm going to install the simple shut off valve. Actually I'm going to just let it cracked open a tad for summer use for cold mornings-cool evenings. The difference inside the car when in hot weather is NOTICABLE. Without any restriction on a 85 degree day after driving the car then parking it for 15 mins or so then getting back into drive is crazy. 1st time I did this I thought something broke in the HVAC system. Then I also started to realize with the HVAC set to vent its NEVER as cool as outside air. I thought at 1st broken air door etc but after checking everything I realized its the heater core sitting in the center of the dash cooking everything. Try this: shut the car off hot let it sit for 15mins then restart the car set HVAC to vent. What you are going to get is HOT HOT air for at least 5-10 mins then warm air after! Who ever designed this system did a terrible job!

The Camaro is not unique in this problem. Many if not all the vehicles I ever owned reacted just like this after a hot restart with the vent on.
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:46 AM   #11
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LOL I didn't say it was. But most cars that have no shut off valve have their heater core mounted closer to the firewall and don't heat soak like this Camaro does. The 4th gen had the same deal but never was hot like this thing gets after a hot start because it was in a better location. The engineering on these cars is very poor, have to see where this all goes in the future for me. We use our cars hard and out 50k a year on them, if they can't perform they gotta go. I can't reengineer everything. A good example is the AC compressor coming on if you start the car with fan in the off position. GM new all about it long time ago and never fixed or updated it. If you call a dealer service dept and ask about it they don't have clue what you are asking about.
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:05 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 152LTRockin View Post
LOL I didn't say it was. But most cars that have no shut off valve have their heater core mounted closer to the firewall and don't heat soak like this Camaro does. The 4th gen had the same deal but never was hot like this thing gets after a hot start because it was in a better location. The engineering on these cars is very poor, have to see where this all goes in the future for me. We use our cars hard and out 50k a year on them, if they can't perform they gotta go. I can't reengineer everything. A good example is the AC compressor coming on if you start the car with fan in the off position. GM new all about it long time ago and never fixed or updated it. If you call a dealer service dept and ask about it they don't have clue what you are asking about.

Yeah, cause you didn't turn the AC off when you turned the fan off. Just saying. I understand why they did it, sort of, but I just make sure to turn the AC off before I shut the car off. Like setting the parking brake. Every time.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:26 AM   #13
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No not on mine, if you turn the fan off then shut off the car the next time you start it then turn the fan on the AC turns on with it. Does it every time, doesn't matter if the AC is on or off when you shut it off. Its a known issue in their programing they never fixed.
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:54 PM   #14
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Tested the vent temps tonight, very disappointed in the results. Car was fully warmed up driven 20 miles then parked for 10mins. At restart temp of air coming out of the vent was over 150 degrees slowly dropped over a few mins to 100 then took 10 miles of driving to get down to 80 degrees and never got any lower. Ambient air temp was 60.............this is so messed up I'm surprised no one else has ever complained about this.

The center console below the gages never gets below 120 degrees EVER! I'd laugh if it was funny but its the worst piece of engineering I've ever encountered in a car. But what really frosts me is its GM car! I'd expect something like this from a cheap import but from a car of this cost. UNACCEPTABLE GM!!!!!!!


I will be installing a shut off valve shortly!
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