1 12 inch sub or 2 10 inch subs?

[mrray13]

Originally Posted by 1badtie

i have the two kicker CVR10's the C stands for Competition series and its a very hard hitting sub when ligned up with the right amp mine sound great and i didnt even have to dynomat my trunk and they hit the high and low notes as compared to any 12 inch sub the only hit the low notes and therefore you would more than likely need the dynomat and i would buy off the internet and have them install them and i bet you would save 4-5 hundred..

Subs are designed for the lows, as in 80hz and down. Okay, daily driving, 100 hz and down, but to play anything higher, you go to the mids.

Originally Posted by sfgiantsfan9

Go with the 10's. Save some cash and you'll have 20 inches of speaker surface area instead of 12. Also 10's are quicker hitting which is great if you listen to music with a fast paced bass such as Rock. I'd go with the 10's

Wrong. two 10 inch subs have 157 square inches of surface area, a single 12 has 113 square inches. Yes, the two tens have more output potential, based on cone area. That is at the cost of weight due to more sub and more then likely a larger box, so less trunk. Maybe even having to add a larger amp.

Size of the cone doesn't determine how fast a sub hits. Cone weight, suspension materials and geometry and enclosure all determine which sub will hit the "fastest". Not too mention the amps damping factor, or ability to control the cone's movement, will play a big role in that.

In the end, a properly setup single sub setup would be just as impressive, if not more so, then a dual sub setup. Will offer similar, if not better sq, and probably at a cheaper price.

[bob1029]

Originally Posted by mrray13

Wrong. two 10 inch subs have 157 square inches of surface area, a single 12 has 113 square inches. Yes, the two tens have more output potential, based on cone area. That is at the cost of weight due to more sub and more then likely a larger box, so less trunk. Maybe even having to add a larger amp.

This is partially correct. You can look at the projected area of the driver diaphragm (Sd) then multiply it by the maximum excursion (Xmax) to obtain the total displacement. Be sure to evaluate ALL of the Thiele/Small parameters of any drivers you are looking at in addition to their basic specs. Using modeling software such as WinISD can also help determine which drivers you would want to use for a particular box design. In this case the 10" drivers are probably going to provide more total displacement and higher range of linearity resulting in better cone control and sound.

[mrray13]

Originally Posted by bob1029

This is partially correct. You can look at the projected area of the driver diaphragm (Sd) then multiply it by the maximum excursion (Xmax) to obtain the total displacement. Be sure to evaluate ALL of the Thiele/Small parameters of any drivers you are looking at in addition to their basic specs. Using modeling software such as WinISD can also help determine which drivers you would want to use for a particular box design. In this case the 10" drivers are probably going to provide more total displacement and higher range of linearity resulting in better cone control and sound.

If your are after total displacement, you need to know xmax. Cone area doesn't need xmax, too be figured. I was correcting the previous post stating that two 10s had 20 inches of cone area. Since we are in the correcting mode...

WinISD, while nice, isn't set in stone, nor 100% accurate. Why? It doesn't account for the vehicle, and almost no box modeling software does. I have BassBx Pro6, which does, IF you want to go out and measure your vehicle's response for a given number of frequencies. Of course, you have have to have an enclosure in there roughly the size of the one you might be building. Guess what happens if the box doesn't turn out as big, or turns out bigger? Yep, all that modeling goes to pot, it changes with everything in the car. Hell, flipping down a sunvisor will affect the vehicle's resonant response and frequency, not too mention adding or taking away from the output!!


Again, what happens on paper, or computer modeling software, can pretty much be tossed out the window. It'll get you in the ballpark, but not hit the ball, lol.

[Racer-X]

ok... gonna toss in my 3 pennies on this.

mrray has it pretty much nailed reguarding Software.

So, here is what most of us in the industry have learned and know.

pick the sub you want. (and just because it says JL does not mean it is the greatest thing since slided bread) then either build and enclosure or have on built to the specs recommended by the manufatcturer. (or if you have a skilled fabricator he can make a few tweaks that will generally help the performance.) run close to the recommended power and tune it properly. and ENJOY.

There are so many variables in car audio it will boggle the mind. If you are just looking for average performance, stick to the basics and keep it simple.

ponder this as well.... just because everyone knows a brand name does not mean it is the best. and the most expensive will not all ways be the best for your application.

[Orange5thGen]

My 2 12's rock....and BOOM.......

I also used FatMat for the entire trunk, no rattle at all except my Ipass on my front windshield at 20 on the volume and higher.........
All with the stock head unit and 200.oo speaker box w/2-12's installed delivered.....

[Master Shake]

Love the ported box! They always sound the best IMO.

I can't wait to see if my 2x10 ported box will fit through the trunk lid opening.

[TonyNo]

A single 10" is more than sufficient to fill out the bottom.

[mrray13]

Originally Posted by Orange5thGen

My 2 12's rock....and BOOM.......

I also used FatMat for the entire trunk, no rattle at all except my Ipass on my front windshield at 20 on the volume and higher.........
All with the stock head unit and 200.oo speaker box w/2-12's installed delivered.....

Originally Posted by Master Shake

Love the ported box! They always sound the best IMO.

I can't wait to see if my 2x10 ported box will fit through the trunk lid opening.

He has a 4th order Bandpass, not a standard ported enclosure. I leave my opinion of it out, as Orange5thGen is happy with it, and that's all that matters!

[Tigertrj]

d-ball2ss do u have pics cause im thinking about putting two solobaric L5's in my trunk , i wanted to see what it looked like

[slowride-5]

I have 2 T5-10 sound stream subs ,with a 2000 watt sound stream amp it just pounds the sh*t out of the car !!

[cdigiovanni]

18in ultra

[BriCo84]

Originally Posted by Tigertrj

d-ball2ss do u have pics cause im thinking about putting two solobaric L5's in my trunk , i wanted to see what it looked like

Ya d-ball2ss if you have pics could you please post. I will be putting in 2 L7 10" solo barics and im interested in seeing you setup. Does it look clean? is it taking up the whole trunk? please post.

thanks

[epstein]

How about Two 12's?

[BriCo84]

Originally Posted by epstein

How about Two 12's?

what about them?