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Old 08-19-2010, 03:53 PM   #15
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you always want the shortest ground possible. DC (Direct Current) flow of electricity runs from negative to positive, so keeping the two wires the same size and keeping the ground short and VERY SOLID is critical.

Here is a reference - since its a little confusing and every time I make that statement I get argued with (even with an MS in Physics, its still impossible to convince people without a picture)
or
Here which is another easier explanation

at any rate, use the largest wire your amps power terminals can accept, with the highest strand count (since electricity doesnt run through the wire, it runs along the outside of it along the surface of each strand), fuse the positive wire within 18" of the battery and keep your grounds short.
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:53 PM   #16
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So grounding to the battery is better? How much was the kicker hyperflex? Why you shy away from monster cable i thought monster had good product?
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlang3lo View Post
So grounding to the battery is better? How much was the kicker hyperflex? Why you shy away from monster cable i thought monster had good product?
Grounding to the battery is better depending on the length of wire run however you may need to ground to the chassis. Depending on where you are placing your amp, there are already pre-drilled body holes that you can use.

Just take a dremel and remove the paint to bare metal around the hole opening. Then through bolt the ground there using a bolt, star washer, washer and a nut. if you take a voltage reading between the pos and neg post on the battery it should be the same between the pos post and the new ground you just did. Then take some spray primer shoot it on the new ground and you are good.

Monster cable sucks, period. Reason is it is nothing but over-hyped stuff.

Cheers
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:19 PM   #18
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Lately I have preferred the Kicker hyperflex or the Knukonceptz wire. I will be running with Knu wire in my Camaro.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topdown View Post
you always want the shortest ground possible. DC (Direct Current) flow of electricity runs from negative to positive, so keeping the two wires the same size and keeping the ground short and VERY SOLID is critical.

Here is a reference - since its a little confusing and every time I make that statement I get argued with (even with an MS in Physics, its still impossible to convince people without a picture)
or
Here which is another easier explanation

at any rate, use the largest wire your amps power terminals can accept, with the highest strand count (since electricity doesnt run through the wire, it runs along the outside of it along the surface of each strand), fuse the positive wire within 18" of the battery and keep your grounds short.
Thank you sir!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by atlang3lo View Post
So grounding to the battery is better? How much was the kicker hyperflex? Why you shy away from monster cable i thought monster had good product?
Yep, grounding at the battery is the best, if the install allows for it.

Kicker Hypeflex isn't the cheapest, but it is one of the best!! I don't deal with Monster due to price, marketing and some quality issues with them in the past. In short, they are all about the money, screw the end user.


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Lately I have preferred the Kicker hyperflex or the Knukonceptz wire. I will be running with Knu wire in my Camaro.

KnuConceptz is a good brand as well! The hyperflex is the bomb though, lol. When you are running 9 runs of each in 0gauge, the Hyperflex came in handy making some of those bends, lol!!
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:35 PM   #20
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KnuConceptz is a good brand as well! The hyperflex is the bomb though, lol. When you are running 9 runs of each in 0gauge, the Hyperflex came in handy making some of those bends, lol!!
LoL - I bet it did!

I am going to be running 1 run of 1/0 to a Roadster66 in the trunk, maybe 2 - 3 feet long... possibly 4 feet if I get "creative". Not even sure it will have to bend more than three times after the fuse... lol
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:03 PM   #21
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Yeah, when you are chasing tenths, and averaging 160db legal, one needs all the help they can get. Those were the days, lol.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:21 PM   #22
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Oh okay can you find any pics of the pre drilled holes for the amp, i have a ******** dual 10 inch enclosure that i will mount the kicker amp on the back of the box facing the back seat.... Any ideas for where I should mount the ground wire to the Chassis or Battery from this position....
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:51 PM   #23
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Ordering my Knukonceptz amp kit as we speak i like what they offered! Plus the good reviews from you guys!

Thanks!
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by atlang3lo View Post
Oh okay can you find any pics of the pre drilled holes for the amp, i have a ******** dual 10 inch enclosure that i will mount the kicker amp on the back of the box facing the back seat.... Any ideas for where I should mount the ground wire to the Chassis or Battery from this position....
When you remove the left hand trunk panel (as you are looking into the trunk from outside the car), you will see the bracing panel that is just below the rear speakers. if you follow the OEM harness coming form the BA amp you will see where it goes over the wheel hump. There is a body cavity where all this sheetmetal comes together. At this point there is a body hole that you can use. This is what I did and have had zero issue.

I took a dremel and got the hole area down to bare metal. I did a through bolt as I mentioned before and then shot some paint on it once assembled.

Cheers
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:10 AM   #25
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Okay thanks alot man.
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