Hot start - slow crank - fixed! Updated 12/30/20 - Page 13

Kemo Savy · 02-25-2021, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Why bother when there’s this just a few inches away.

Yes but is that hole tapped? And if so whats it for?🤔

TP2SS · 02-25-2021, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kemo Savy

Yes but is that hole tapped? And if so whats it for?🤔

Sound tube bracket mount. Can’t tell in the pic but it should be tapped. That car does’t have the sound tube installed. Guessing the engines are all machined the same regardless of what gets used. I have an unused tapped hole in the front side of my left side head which I thought about using for the ground cable, but there’s no decent routing to the neg lug.

Johnnyb2016 · 02-25-2021, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Why bother when there’s this just a few inches away.

Yep, that’s a better option, didn’t even look there!!

TP2SS · 02-27-2021, 04:30 PM

Okay, so I just installed the cable on the sound tube bracket mount hole.
I have the sound tube so bolt is there, but I'd bet that hole is tapped even if the car came without the sound tube. If it didn't, the thread is 10mm x 1.5 pitch (I think...it's metric coarse so likely 1.5). A 1/2" length bolt will be sufficient.
The existing bolt is #50 Torx head.
I was able to remove the bolt and simply slip the terminal in between the grommet and casting boss. Plenty of thread to work with so no danger of stripping/pulling threads out when tightening. The grommet is captured on a flanged spacer, so the bolt tightens on the spacer and hence the terminal without "crushing" the grommet for the sound tube bracket.

I mounted so that the cable goes upward, keeping it away from all the pulleys and belts. It curves up and over then back down next to the fan shroud and then up to the NEG body post. It's not rubbing on anything and will not chafe.

The cable I used is 1/0 AWG with 3/8" terminals, which were perfect for both ends. Length is 29" hole to hole, but you could use 27-31" and be fine.

SSDan · 02-27-2021, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Okay, so I just installed the cable on the sound tube bracket mount hole.

Nice! Thanks for posting the details and illustrated pics. We now have another way to get this ground cable attached on the engine side.

Happy hot starting!

Kemo Savy · 03-10-2021, 05:54 PM

I bought a 24" 4 ga. cable today. Where is the best ground?...The belt tensioner bolt or the sound tube bracket bolt? I want to know before I cut my cable. I think I will cut it to 21".

enzia35 · 03-10-2021, 06:36 PM

I've had no problems with hot starts after installing the cable. Added it to the water pump bolt.

TP2SS · 03-10-2021, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kemo Savy

I bought a 24" 4 ga. cable today. Where is the best ground?...The belt tensioner bolt or the sound tube bracket bolt? I want to know before I cut my cable. I think I will cut it to 21".

Why would you cut it? It's raw cable with no terminals?

Biased opinion here but the sound tube bolt is the absolute easiest to do. Don't need a longer bolt as with the water pump install. Don't have to cut one terminal end to "fork" it to fit over the tensioner bolt (plus the nightmare if you remove the tensioner bolt all the way). And literally no other parts needed.

See my post a few above this. 24" will work fine with the sound tube mount location. I routed mine upward then downward to keep the cable away from the belts and give a nice lead to the body lug with no kinks or chafe points, but there's plenty of options to route it using a bit shorter than the 29" cable I used. Might even be able to do it the same way with 24", just a little tighter bends in the cable.

You literally only need a #50 Torx socket and whatever the body lug requires (an adjustable wrench works just fine!) to do it this way. Takes maybe 2 minutes to do the entire install!

Kemo Savy · 03-10-2021, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TP2SS

Why would you cut it? It's raw cable with no terminals?

Biased opinion here but the sound tube bolt is the absolute easiest to do. Don't need a longer bolt as with the water pump install. Don't have to cut one terminal end to "fork" it to fit over the tensioner bolt (plus the nightmare if you remove the tensioner bolt all the way). And literally no other parts needed.

See my post a few above this. 24" will work fine with the sound tube mount location. I routed mine upward then downward to keep the cable away from the belts and give a nice lead to the body lug with no kinks or chafe points, but there's plenty of options to route it using a bit shorter than the 29" cable I used. Might even be able to do it the same way with 24", just a little tighter bends in the cable.

You literally only need a #50 Torx socket and whatever the body lug requires (an adjustable wrench works just fine!) to do it this way. Takes maybe 2 minutes to do the entire install!

Yeh...just a raw 24" cable. I'll be putting my own tips on it. I'll keep it a 24" and put the tips on and try it your way.😑

Invertalon · 03-11-2021, 11:43 AM

I have not had any problem starting (but honestly, got the car in October and never really had a chance for a 'hot start' condition in the summer heat yet). But for $20, I figure why not... Bought a 27" cable from BatteryCablesUSA and picked up a M10x1.5x20mm hex bolt at the hardware store to attach to my (empty) sound tube provision at the front of the engine block. Will install that when I get the cable in next week or whatever and be on my way. Can't hurt, at least!

You guys using a touch of loctite or antiseize into the aluminum block here? Was anything on the sound tube fastener at installation?

TP2SS · 03-11-2021, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Invertalon

I have not had any problem starting (but honestly, got the car in October and never really had a chance for a 'hot start' condition in the summer heat yet). But for $20, I figure why not... Bought a 27" cable from BatteryCablesUSA and picked up a M10x1.5x20mm hex bolt at the hardware store to attach to my (empty) sound tube provision at the front of the engine block. Will install that when I get the cable in next week or whatever and be on my way. Can't hurt, at least!

You guys using a touch of loctite or antiseize into the aluminum block here? Was anything on the sound tube fastener at installation?

Yes, there was some blue thread lock on my sound tube bolt when I removed it. I hope the 1.5 thread pitch is correct, I guessed at it when I posted about it above. I know it's M10 because I measured that with a caliper, but had no way to measure the thread pitch.
Please post here if 1.5 pitch was correct, and if not, what the correct pitch is.

Invertalon · 03-11-2021, 06:31 PM

Yep, it was 1.5 pitch. I checked the bolt when I got home and threaded in no issue the entire depth.

Invertalon · 03-13-2021, 01:03 PM

Installed my 27" cable just now to the sound tube mount in front of the engine block. Was able to route easily to avoid rubbing/chaffing on the smaller coolant lines, similar to TP2SS.

13mm socket for the negative grounding terminal, 17mm socket for the M10-1.5 x 20mm hex nut. I used loctite 242 and torqued it to 18 ft-lb.

SSDan · 03-13-2021, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Invertalon

Installed my 27" cable just now to the sound tube mount in front of the engine block. Was able to route easily to avoid rubbing/chaffing on the smaller coolant lines, similar to TP2SS.

Nice work! Thanks for the writeup and photos.

I don't think the later models beyond 2016 and some 2017's were plagued with this but no harm in adding the ground cable just to make sure.

02-27-2021, 04:30 PM	#172
TP2SS Drives: 2016 2SS Convertible Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 576	Okay, so I just installed the cable on the sound tube bracket mount hole. I have the sound tube so bolt is there, but I'd bet that hole is tapped even if the car came without the sound tube. If it didn't, the thread is 10mm x 1.5 pitch (I think...it's metric coarse so likely 1.5). A 1/2" length bolt will be sufficient. The existing bolt is #50 Torx head. I was able to remove the bolt and simply slip the terminal in between the grommet and casting boss. Plenty of thread to work with so no danger of stripping/pulling threads out when tightening. The grommet is captured on a flanged spacer, so the bolt tightens on the spacer and hence the terminal without "crushing" the grommet for the sound tube bracket. I mounted so that the cable goes upward, keeping it away from all the pulleys and belts. It curves up and over then back down next to the fan shroud and then up to the NEG body post. It's not rubbing on anything and will not chafe. The cable I used is 1/0 AWG with 3/8" terminals, which were perfect for both ends. Length is 29" hole to hole, but you could use 27-31" and be fine. Attached Images __________________ 2016 2SS Convertible Hyper Blue/Ash Gray A8 Magnetic Ride Control Dual Mode Exhaust 2019+ version Split Spoke Silver Wheels Navigation Silver Rally Stripes

03-10-2021, 06:36 PM	#175
enzia35 Drives: '16 Garnet Red 1SS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: College Station, TX Posts: 3,450	I've had no problems with hot starts after installing the cable. Added it to the water pump bolt. __________________ '16 Camaro 1SS '18 Miata GT Gone: '01 Camaro, '14 Camaro, '90 Miata

03-11-2021, 11:43 AM	#178
Invertalon Drives: 2021 2SS Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Cleveland Posts: 299	I have not had any problem starting (but honestly, got the car in October and never really had a chance for a 'hot start' condition in the summer heat yet). But for $20, I figure why not... Bought a 27" cable from BatteryCablesUSA and picked up a M10x1.5x20mm hex bolt at the hardware store to attach to my (empty) sound tube provision at the front of the engine block. Will install that when I get the cable in next week or whatever and be on my way. Can't hurt, at least! You guys using a touch of loctite or antiseize into the aluminum block here? Was anything on the sound tube fastener at installation? Last edited by Invertalon; 03-11-2021 at 11:59 AM.

03-10-2021, 05:54 PM	#174
Kemo Savy Banned Drives: Make it a 6 speed in SS trim. Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: us Posts: 61	I bought a 24" 4 ga. cable today. Where is the best ground?...The belt tensioner bolt or the sound tube bracket bolt? I want to know before I cut my cable. I think I will cut it to 21".

03-11-2021, 06:31 PM	#180
Invertalon Drives: 2021 2SS Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Cleveland Posts: 299	Yep, it was 1.5 pitch. I checked the bolt when I got home and threaded in no issue the entire depth.

03-13-2021, 01:03 PM	#181
Invertalon Drives: 2021 2SS Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Cleveland Posts: 299	Installed my 27" cable just now to the sound tube mount in front of the engine block. Was able to route easily to avoid rubbing/chaffing on the smaller coolant lines, similar to TP2SS. 13mm socket for the negative grounding terminal, 17mm socket for the M10-1.5 x 20mm hex nut. I used loctite 242 and torqued it to 18 ft-lb.

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