[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hey team, just thought id share my progress thus far...
To recap.

Objective.1 - Remove main HX obstruction for cooling and aesthetic improvements.
Objective.2 - Maintain some level of low speed impact protection and front end rigidity.

Photo.1 - Before photo showing the level of obstruction that the crash bar makes...
Photo.2 - With crash bar removed, you can see how much improvement available, but also how much forethought needs to be made for airflow channeling.
Photo.3 - Fascia off, crash bar exposed.
Photo.4 - My solution (first draft)
Photo.5 - My solution (test fit)
Photo.6 - My solution (test fit)
Photo.7 - My solution with bumper on, showing a draft of the custom air diverters...

Logic; although i would have preferred to make this out of aluminum, for lighter weight and easier fabrication, I opted for .125" wall steel tubing. (might consider thinner wall for next version) I used stacked 1x2 to create a bracket from the match plate to cantilever over to the main vertical support (another 1x2) this enables an easy transition from the angled (approx. 10degree) frame receivers. This also provides great front bearing load resistance due to the doubled tub section being welded together, and more linear surface area to weld too, on the vertical support. This also puts the (4) bolts directly in the center of the tube for crush resistance. From there it is some simple geometry to bring an upper and lower support as close to the fascia as possible using 1" square tube (this was a little tricky to test, but luckily the front fascia comes standard with plenty of hand access haha...) (with a future order I might change this to some one piece tubing) I should have the final version of my custom air deflectors done today... and will upload more photos when its all finished. I applied the primer to the frame last night, as well as a few coats of matte black, will finish the tow hook provision this week, confirm final product weight, and she should be ready to rock and roll!

With that said, let me know your thoughts, and if anyone would be interested in me building one for you? If i could get interest in (10)+, I will build a proper jig, and try to streamline the process to make this more cost effective.

My current best guess is... if I could get an order of (10), that I could sell these as options as follows...

BASE: $650 +/- = Frame (no tow hook provision or air deflectors or painting) This would be ready for you to paint or powder coat...
MIDDLE: $1,250 +/- = Frame + Primer + Tow Hook provision + Air Deflectors. All items are primed and ready for you to paint.
DELUXE: $1,450 +/- = Middle option + Painting all pieces matte or satin black (custom colors add $95.

All options would include instructions and all necessary hardware.
Thoughts on the product, design, and price point so far?

Nice project, Well Done !

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Evening friends... project update... I added the tow hook provisions to my frame last night, cut the final version of the air deflectors, primed, painted and installed this morning! The only other change was a nip and tuck to the lower front brake ducting... the brake duct, stuck out a lot further than the HX duct, so I trimmed it back to match them up... So, what are your thoughts on the final product?

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Before and After...

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Before and After...

Looks great, clever thinking out side the box! My only suggestion is capping off your front upper and lower tubes to prevent water and road debris accumulating in them tubes over time, more importantly the lower one.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

Looks great, clever thinking out side the box! My only suggestion is capping off your front upper and lower tubes to prevent water and road debris accumulating in them tubes over time, more importantly the lower one.

Good idea... I remember thinking of that the other day, but for got to order caps... on my list now

[ZLRob]

How much would something like this even cost? It looks clean and I like that it still retains a "crash bar" functionality to it while maximizing airflow to the HX.

[6spdhyperblue]

Man that really came out great!

[SnakeEyeSS]

It looks really good! Well done!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

How much would something like this even cost? It looks clean and I like that it still retains a "crash bar" functionality to it while maximizing airflow to the HX.

For the turn key solution, that would include tow hook provision, air deflectors, primed and painted, and all hardware (including end caps)... looking around $1,500 +/- (less if you want to primer and paint or powder coat)

Working with my nephew (certified welder / fabricator) to help me with making this efficient to run an initial batch of (10) or more...


A few photos of the final air deflector pieces before painting. These are made of .050 aluminum, super light but rigid enough based on how they install.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

Man that really came out great!

Thank you...

I am also super happy...
Still surprised this solution has not been addressed yet...

So, who else wants one of the first (10)???

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hey team, just thought id share my progress thus far...
To recap.

Objective.1 - Remove main HX obstruction for cooling and aesthetic improvements.
Objective.2 - Maintain some level of low speed impact protection and front end rigidity.

Photo.1 - Before photo showing the level of obstruction that the crash bar makes...
Photo.2 - With crash bar removed, you can see how much improvement available, but also how much forethought needs to be made for airflow channeling.
Photo.3 - Fascia off, crash bar exposed.
Photo.4 - My solution (first draft)
Photo.5 - My solution (test fit)
Photo.6 - My solution (test fit)
Photo.7 - My solution with bumper on, showing a draft of the custom air diverters...

Logic; although i would have preferred to make this out of aluminum, for lighter weight and easier fabrication, I opted for .125" wall steel tubing. (might consider thinner wall for next version) I used stacked 1x2 to create a bracket from the match plate to cantilever over to the main vertical support (another 1x2) this enables an easy transition from the angled (approx. 10degree) frame receivers. This also provides great front bearing load resistance due to the doubled tub section being welded together, and more linear surface area to weld too, on the vertical support. This also puts the (4) bolts directly in the center of the tube for crush resistance. From there it is some simple geometry to bring an upper and lower support as close to the fascia as possible using 1" square tube (this was a little tricky to test, but luckily the front fascia comes standard with plenty of hand access haha...) (with a future order I might change this to some one piece tubing) I should have the final version of my custom air deflectors done today... and will upload more photos when its all finished. I applied the primer to the frame last night, as well as a few coats of matte black, will finish the tow hook provision this week, confirm final product weight, and she should be ready to rock and roll!

With that said, let me know your thoughts, and if anyone would be interested in me building one for you? If i could get interest in (10)+, I will build a proper jig, and try to streamline the process to make this more cost effective.

My current best guess is... if I could get an order of (10), that I could sell these as options as follows...

BASE: $650 +/- = Frame (no tow hook provision or air deflectors or painting) This would be ready for you to paint or powder coat...
MIDDLE: $1,250 +/- = Frame + Primer + Tow Hook provision + Air Deflectors. All items are primed and ready for you to paint.
DELUXE: $1,450 +/- = Middle option + Painting all pieces matte or satin black (custom colors add $95.

All options would include instructions and all necessary hardware.
Thoughts on the product, design, and price point so far?

Not criticizing just pointers,
I’m a welder fabricator in the concrete and aggregate production industry and do a lot of fabrication and engineering. If you are seriously thinking of doing some production with this awesome design which I think you should, you will have to tweak a few things like add compression sleeves in your section of tubing where it bolts to the car to prevent compression on the tubing allowing to tighten it without any deflection and also allowing you to move to a lighter gauge steel in certain sections for weight loss, large diameter fender washers are not sufficient because they are usually a soft grade 5 washer.
Also boxing in (capping it by welding in a flat bar) any open sections of tubing not allowing water in and strengthening the overall design. We all wash your cars usually with water although some people dry wash but not everyone. And building a fabrication jig to make your life easy for production. I really do love the design, and if you were able to produce them at a reasonable cost with reasonable effort, I think it will be very successful.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

Not criticizing just pointers,
I’m a welder fabricator in the concrete and aggregate production industry and do a lot of fabrication and engineering. If you are seriously thinking of doing some production with this awesome design which I think you should, you will have to tweak a few things like add compression sleeves in your section of tubing where it bolts to the car to prevent compression on the tubing allowing to tighten it without any deflection and also allowing you to move to a lighter gauge steel in certain sections for weight loss, large diameter fender washers are not sufficient because they are usually a soft grade 5 washer.
Also boxing in (capping it by welding in a flat bar) any open sections of tubing not allowing water in and strengthening the overall design. We all wash your cars usually with water although some people dry wash but not everyone. And building a fabrication jig to make your life easy for production. I really do love the design, and if you were able to produce them at a reasonable cost with reasonable effort, I think it will be very successful.

Great pointers Calgary! I appreciate you taking the time to write that up!

As for the compression sleeves, that would not be hard to add... and to be clear, this detail was not lost on me... First I tested one section, using some longer M8 bolts, and keeping the holes center in the center of the 1x2, then using an oversized (OD and thickness) washer to transfer the pinch force closer to the shoulders... I could NOT a torque spec in the GM manual, but based on other M8 fasteners, I torqued these to 15lbs, used some blue locktite, and did not notice any noticeable deflection. I would be worried to torque more than that considering these M8's are threading into some nutserts, that are pressed into the end of the frame rail with a thin end cap (seems like .125" aluminum or less) I will run this idea past by buddy to see how much cost this might add.

I also like the idea of box welding the end caps... or, perhaps to save cost... I can silicone in some plastic caps to save cost and weight?

Anything else you can see for improvement?
Definitely want to swap out the 1x1 square with a one piece, 1" round tube...

[CalgaryZL1]

I know it’s more work, but to add a compression sleeve you would just drill the holes out enough to have a piece of round tubing with a close inner diameter for the bolts and weld it in, cut the tube to slightly over the length of the inner measurement of the tubing to give you room/land for weld. And boxing all your open ends of tubing will increase the structural integrity of that square tubing allowing you a smaller gauge over a non structural aesthetic end cap. That is all I really have to harp on, the design is awesome.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

I know it’s more work, but to add a compression sleeve you would just drill the holes out enough to have a piece of round tubing with a close inner diameter for the bolts and weld it in, cut the tube to slightly over the length of the inner measurement of the tubing to give you room/land for weld. And boxing all your open ends of tubing will increase the structural integrity of that square tubing allowing you a smaller gauge over a non structural aesthetic end cap. That is all I really have to harp on, the design is awesome.

Well said! Thanks again for the feedback... looking forward to building more of these for any interested.