[AmazinglySmooth]

I feel the fronts are too worn on my 1LE. The outer edge is slick. The inner edge looks just ok. At what depth do you swap these tires? They start with 7, so if you replace them at 4 or 3, you haven't gotten much life out of them.

[Rhobz]

I probably have about 0.5 and am starting to think about replacing them.

I have just under 11000 miles, mostly spirited canyon type driving.

[kropscamaro16]

when they got cords showing lol

[Scargoes]

The thing to remember is that the outer two tread blocks become one at about 4.5mm depth. Only way to know how much is left is to check the tread depth holes that are molded into the tread. Look for some rectangular holes near the edge. That is where you take a tread depth measurement.

Edit: I have circled in red the holes you should look for. The groove identified by the green line is not as deep as the other grooves. This is so as the tire wears the outer edge becomes more like a slick with less voids and less tread squirm.

[weemus]

+1 when the cords show

But I’ll add that I drive my wife’s car in the rain when the tires go near slick then I run them in dry weather until cords show.

[MatthewAMEL]

When they cord.


My fronts always cord inside edge 1st.

[MatthewAMEL]

BTW - that is the result of two road trips from Orlando to Boone, NC to VIR (two days at VIR) back to Boone, back to Orlando and then a month later up to RRR in Savannah. All of that was with -2.5F camber.

[Vtor_ZL1]

Either worn or heat cycled out... ideally when both happen at same time!

[WhiteMale]

Originally Posted by AmazinglySmooth

I feel the fronts are too worn on my 1LE. The outer edge is slick. The inner edge looks just ok. At what depth do you swap these tires? They start with 7, so if you replace them at 4 or 3, you haven't gotten much life out of them.

Id run the wear bars/indicators than a depth measurement which with these kind of tires IMHO a measurement and whatever that standard for tread depth might, be isn't too applicable with these type tires.

[TRZ06]

I only drive on the street , albeit sporty street driving and I have the track alignment.

My wear rate is about 2:1 Rear to front. When the rears are slicks, I replace all 4.

Replacing all 4 keeps the car very neutral. As my rears wear, my car goes from neutral to slight oversteery. This last time, I only replaced the rears and I now have understeer.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

When they cord.


My fronts always cord inside edge 1st.

Check your toe. Way too much rubber left on yours to chuck them otherwise. Here's pic of mine at 2.6 camber. Cheers!

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Check your toe. Way too much rubber left on yours to chuck them otherwise. Here's pic of mine at 2.6 camber. Cheers!

Alignment was fine. It was the 4,000 highway miles that killed them. The VIR sessions didn't hurt, either.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Alignment was fine. It was the 4,000 highway miles that killed them. The VIR sessions didn't hurt, either.

Ya, abrasive track will cord them. That's what happened to me, but only once. Never had one cord just from DD. By and large camber wont cord a tire, but excessive toe will make fast work of it. I am running zero toe in the front now. No complaints regarding turn in etc. Cheers!

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Check your toe. Way too much rubber left on yours to chuck them otherwise. Here's pic of mine at 2.6 camber. Cheers!

Thanks for chiming in TC. Looking at all the rubber left on his tire pains me, but that is a lot of street/highway miles on a track alignment. Definitely agree on toe being the main problem, but I'd also like to see the outer edge because he might be able to go with less camber as well.

My obligatory tire photo to show you up


With all of that said, in regards to the OP, it doesn't seem like he is tracking the car if he doesn't know much about these tires. I would recommend buying different tires when the time comes and getting an alignment at the same time.