Ticking noise after header install - HELP! - Page 3

marknagy13 · 11-15-2017, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brettman

Here was mine, that's a leak for sure. If you match up the Kooks to OEM gaskets the ports to bolts didn't match

Ya I used a new set of OEM gaskets. Hopefully the bolts just came loose and I don't have to replace a gasket already.

Quote:

Originally Posted by exxit

As a 6gen owner with an exhaust leak, its a leak. Just find the source and get the bolts tight. Don't go too crazy and snap one... You'll want to considering a cam job if you snap one of those bolts lol. That motor will have to come out depending on which bolt and what position its in -_-. I've seen a few mcguivers get some bolts out using magic and a kit, but it'll make an annoying situation into a shitty one very fast. Older header torque spec was 18ftlbs. Sounds awfully low but hopefully someone here who actually used a torque wrench to end their LT install can chime in.

Agreed. I have heard 18, but also some have said 25 so I'm not too sure.

JeromeS13 · 11-15-2017, 11:51 PM

Straight from the service manual...

KingLT1 · 11-16-2017, 08:39 AM

17,18,25ft lbs, It does not matter... Those specs are for when you have the engine on a stand. You can not get a tq wrench on each bolt with the engine in the car and get a accurate tq spec anyway. Aside from that, It's not like you are torqueing the head bolt's where it is much more critical. tighten the bolts down from the middle out and it will be fine.

EFI Tuning · 11-16-2017, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingLT1

17,18,25ft lbs, It does not matter... Those specs are for when you have the engine on a stand. You can not get a tq wrench on each bolt with the engine in the car and get a accurate tq spec anyway. Aside from that, It's not like you are torqueing the head bolt's where it is much more critical. tighten the bolts down from the middle out and it will be fine.

Exactly this.

brettman · 11-16-2017, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingLT1

17,18,25ft lbs, It does not matter... Those specs are for when you have the engine on a stand. You can not get a tq wrench on each bolt with the engine in the car and get a accurate tq spec anyway. Aside from that, It's not like you are torqueing the head bolt's where it is much more critical. tighten the bolts down from the middle out and it will be fine.

There you go, get them tight, like KingLt1 states. Center out, snug, tighter, then tighter (progressive) Side note: In the old days we re-torqued heads and manifolds after a progressive heat cycles......showing my age now...lol

marknagy13 · 11-16-2017, 10:43 AM

Any tips on how to get a wrench in there? We tried to tighten them down with a long wrench and swivel on the end but the angle is so hard to get to them and the spark plug wires are hard to get around. There isn't much room on the passenger side without taking the covers off and plugs out.

KyBoy · 11-22-2017, 07:56 PM

Any update on the ticking?

marknagy13 · 11-24-2017, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyBoy

Any update on the ticking?

Taking it to Midas On Monday for a quick gasket replacement before my tune Friday. It's an exhaust leak for sure. The guy there looked more closely and could see exhaust gas coming out at the header gasket. I ordered Mr. Gasket ultra seal gaskets so they should work better lol

KyBoy · 11-24-2017, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marknagy13

Taking it to Midas On Monday for a quick gasket replacement before my tune Friday. It's an exhaust leak for sure. The guy there looked more closely and could see exhaust gas coming out at the header gasket. I ordered Mr. Gasket ultra seal gaskets so they should work better lol

I torqued to 17 ft-lbs in the order that Kooks suggested. I reused the stock gaskets. No leaks as of yet. Only driven it a couple short times.

Heath

marknagy13 · 11-24-2017, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyBoy

I torqued to 17 ft-lbs in the order that Kooks suggested. I reused the stock gaskets. No leaks as of yet. Only driven it a couple short times.

Heath

They think that we may have installed the gasket backwards

KyBoy · 11-24-2017, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marknagy13

They think that we may have installed the gasket backwards

Ooooohh, that would do it. The factory gasket had a "down" with an arrow.

Heath

JCunningham · 11-24-2017, 11:28 PM

I had no problem torquing my header bolts in the car. I used a Snap on inlb for the 1st 132inlbs (11ftlbs) then a Snap on flex head to 20ftlbs because thats as close as I can get them. My 1/4" in lb wrench only goes to 200inlbs (16.6inlbs) and my ftlbs wrench starts at 20ftlbs. No leaks.
1st pass is 11ftlbs start from inside to outside then 17ftlbs or 20 is fine.

KyBoy · 11-25-2017, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCunningham

I had no problem torquing my header bolts in the car. I used a Snap on inlb for the 1st 132inlbs (11ftlbs) then a Snap on flex head to 20ftlbs because thats as close as I can get them. My 1/4" in lb wrench only goes to 200inlbs (16.6inlbs) and my ftlbs wrench starts at 20ftlbs. No leaks.
1st pass is 11ftlbs start from inside to outside then 17ftlbs or 20 is fine.

That's what I did up to 17 ft-lbs. I used a digital snap on 3/8 drive. Had no problem getting in to the header bolts.

Heath

marknagy13 · 11-26-2017, 04:38 PM

Update on the issue: Gasket is being replaced with ultra seal gasket tomorrow.

11-15-2017, 11:51 PM	#30
JeromeS13 Drives: 2017 1SS/1LE Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: FL Panhandle Posts: 1,559	Straight from the service manual... Attached Images

11-16-2017, 08:39 AM	#31
KingLT1 Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: 46804 Posts: 6,797	17,18,25ft lbs, It does not matter... Those specs are for when you have the engine on a stand. You can not get a tq wrench on each bolt with the engine in the car and get a accurate tq spec anyway. Aside from that, It's not like you are torqueing the head bolt's where it is much more critical. tighten the bolts down from the middle out and it will be fine. __________________ 2016 NFG 1SS A8 Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA

11-16-2017, 10:43 AM	#34
marknagy13 Markoon13 Drives: Camaro 2SS Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: San Diego Posts: 853	Any tips on how to get a wrench in there? We tried to tighten them down with a long wrench and swivel on the end but the angle is so hard to get to them and the spark plug wires are hard to get around. There isn't much room on the passenger side without taking the covers off and plugs out. __________________ Making Camaro Videos Great Again! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWS...TrnPTnKAfJgouQ

11-22-2017, 07:56 PM	#35
KyBoy Drives: '17 2SS H50 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Louisa, Ky Posts: 3,952	Any update on the ticking? __________________ 2017 H50-2SS-MN6-F55-NPP-RIK-WL4-IO6 1100 - 5/26 0000 - Cancelled - 7/5 Contacted Becky - 7/1 2000 - 7/5 3000 - 7/6 3000 - 7/11 TPW 8/1 3100 - 7/18 TPW 8/1 3300 - 7/20 3400 - 7/21 Built - 8/2 - PS 1,182/1 of 699US 4300 - 8/3 5000 - 8/5 6000 - 8/13

11-24-2017, 11:28 PM	#40
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	I had no problem torquing my header bolts in the car. I used a Snap on inlb for the 1st 132inlbs (11ftlbs) then a Snap on flex head to 20ftlbs because thats as close as I can get them. My 1/4" in lb wrench only goes to 200inlbs (16.6inlbs) and my ftlbs wrench starts at 20ftlbs. No leaks. 1st pass is 11ftlbs start from inside to outside then 17ftlbs or 20 is fine. __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

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