06-30-2020, 06:12 PM | #15 | |
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
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That said, it does occur to me that you probably have a separate amp in your trunk already, which means you may not need quite as sensitive speakers. This opens up options. Just perusing the Crutchfield site for a minute, I see that the JL Audio C1-690 component set includes a 6x9 mid/woofer that is even more sensitive than the Audiofrogs and extends all the way down to 39Hz, for $159. You could get that and just install the 6x9s in the doors and leave the tweeter out altogether, or pull out the dash speakers (or just leave them if you can access their wires under the dash and cut the positive lead to each) and figure out a good surface mount strategy for the JL tweeter now or later.* This seems pretty compelling, given your goals. Also, Kenwood has the Excelon KFC-XP6902C, which comes with drop-in replacements for the door and dash speakers with an small crossover filter for $219. It extends down to 45Hz, and it's a lot less sensitive at only 84dB (but that may not matter much if you have a factory amp). I think they will be a significant upgrade in sound quality and extension for less than half the price of equivalent Audiofrogs. To answer a couple other questions:
*Expert advice is that the 2.5" mid/tweeters do well mounted in the dash and bouncing off the windshield, but smaller tweeters don't.
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Matt Miller
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06-30-2020, 06:13 PM | #16 | |
Drives: ‘18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Texas
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06-30-2020, 06:34 PM | #17 | |
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My car does have the amp in the back. I will be looking into the two speakers you recommended. I like the idea of having the other speakers that I can install at a later time. If it's not too difficult to get the dash speakers out, I think replacing those at some point might make sense. Again, thank you so much for the help! |
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06-30-2020, 06:38 PM | #18 | |
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06-30-2020, 06:44 PM | #19 |
What do you think of these Infinity Reference REF-9633ix speakers?
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06-30-2020, 07:04 PM | #20 | |
Drives: ‘18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Texas
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06-30-2020, 08:21 PM | #21 | |||
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
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I'm no expert in these different speakers, but Infinity has products from budget junk to super-high-end. The problem I see with the ones you linked is that they are three-way speakers (woofers, "mids," and tweeters with crossover combined in one unit). You can do that, but the factory system in our cars is actually set up as a two-way component set in the doors and dash. The doors are the woofers and the dash handles most of the midrange and all the tweeter range. They are both on the same channel. The door speakers get a full-range signal, and the dash speakers have a 68uF capacitor at their terminal that serves as a high-pass filter so that they only get from roughly 600Hz and up. So if it were me, I would choose to go with a single-driver 6x9 woofer in each door (without the mids and tweeters), and keep using the dash speaker and its high-pass filter for the mids/highs. Doing it that way replicates the factory setup, only with far better drivers. They have, in fact, done a fair amount of work making what's in there sound good (for what it is). So that's why I did it the way I did. I hope that makes sense. It does seem hard to find 6x9 woofers sold by themselves, without a tweeter and crossover accompanying them. And there really aren't many 2.5" "twiddlers" that directly replace the dash speakers. That's one thing that makes the Kenwood set I mentioned such an easy recommendation: it's all ready to drop in exactly where you want to change your speakers. Quote:
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Matt Miller
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06-30-2020, 08:39 PM | #22 |
Drives: ‘18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Texas
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I personally would wait, save up a little more and go with a set of components up front with a 10” sub sealed or maybe ported in the trunk based off the OPs tastes. All other speakers disconnected. A little 2ch amp for the components and mono for the sub or perhaps one amp that can do 3ch to power it all.
Btw, for any of you looking for LOCs, harness and ANC bypasses check out this site. I think you’ll be better off than ST. https://lljcustoms.com/store/ols/pro...-amp-t-harness |
06-30-2020, 09:37 PM | #23 |
So, it seems to be getting a little more confusing. From what i understand it would be best to find a component system that includes 6x9's used only for the lows and something else for the mids and highs. Most component systems come with the 6x9 woofers and tweeters. Since the Camaro's dash speakers are the mids and highs, it seems dumb to get tweeters. It would be better to upgrade the 6x9 door speakers with woofers and then upgrade the dash speakers (mids/highs) as well. The Kenwood set has the woofers and the the 2.5" mid/high speakers. So this seems the best choice. But, will the Kenwood 2.5' speakers fit in the spot where the factory dash speakers are located? I can't tell and Crutchfield doesn't really say. regardless, will just replacing the 6x9's make a big enough difference to justify the $219? Or would I need to replace the dash ones and the door ones to really hear a big difference? Also, now I'm thinking a better amp might be needed as well. And that's a whole other can of worms!
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06-30-2020, 09:50 PM | #24 | |
Drives: Chevy Camaro Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Wi
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06-30-2020, 10:05 PM | #25 | |
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06-30-2020, 11:14 PM | #26 | |||
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
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07-01-2020, 12:21 PM | #27 |
Okay, so I think I’ll order the Kenwoods. I like the idea that I can later add the 2.5” speakers to make yet another improvement when I have the time. So, as far as removing the door panel...easy or difficult? I watched a few YouTube videos and noticed there are two ways to do it. In one of the videos they just pull the top part towards them to unclip it. On another video they lift up and I clip it that way. Is there a preferred way of doing this? I want the easiest, but also the way that is least likely to do any damage.
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07-01-2020, 02:29 PM | #28 | |
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
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Once you have it all off, you'll probably find that some of the plastic pins are still in the door instead of the panel. Pull each one out and insert it back in the panel. To reinstall the panel, you'll want to remove the weatherstrip and the six metal clips from the top of the door panel (it's easier now that the panel is off the car). Then install the six metal clips onto the metal door, then put the weatherstrip in the clips. Now's a good time to reinstall the three black push pins into the weatherstrip (because the door panel covers one of them). Finally, you can push the door panel onto the metal clips along with pushing in all the round pins. When you get the panel off the door, there are one or two electrical connections plus the latch cable to undo. These are not hard, but you have to see what to do. Both electrical connectors have a red or orange tab to pull out first, which unlocks them. Then each has a small tab under the locking tab that you need to depress as you pull the connector apart. As long as you push that second tab down, it's easy to get them apart. The latch cable has a white plastic holder that is clipped to the door panel. Depress the tab on it and the white plastic holder and slide the holder back and off the part it clips to. Then swing the cable 90deg (maybe a little more?), so that the cable is pointing broadside into the door panel. The silver lug at the end of the cable can be removed from its metal lever on the door panel and lifted up, with the cable coming out of a slot in that lever. Some of the push pins are yellow, some are light gray. It would probably be a good idea to buy a couple of each before you dive into this job, just in case a you break any. I didn't, but doing this on a Saturday I realized that if I did I would not be able to get any replacements until Monday. Also, get a cheap set of trim removal tools. And for the three 7mm screws, you'll need a socket on an extension.
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