[Mavericka70]

I saw some people asking if it was possible to do a cam swap without pulling the engine or opening up the ac lines, and never saw any definite answers to that question. I just wanted to point out that it is possible, because I just did it. After removing the radiator, you can lower the condensor without disconnecting any of the lines, giving a very clear shot at the cam.
Overall, this swap wasnt all that bad. If you're patient with all the plastic clips and shrouds on the front end, I don't see any reason to pull the engine for a cam swap. I'm almost done, and I think I'll have about 22 hours of labor in it(including valve springs, trunnion upgrade, etc). I'd be happy to answer any questions, and I hope this helps someone who is on edge about doing this like I was.

[RUQWIKR]

Same thing on the 4th-Gen cam swaps. Pull fans & radiator, twist the condenser out of the way with the compressor hoses still attached. Thanks for the info.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Mavericka70

I saw some people asking if it was possible to do a cam swap without pulling the engine or opening up the ac lines, and never saw any definite answers to that question. I just wanted to point out that it is possible, because I just did it. After removing the radiator, you can lower the condensor without disconnecting any of the lines, giving a very clear shot at the cam.
Overall, this swap wasnt all that bad. If you're patient with all the plastic clips and shrouds on the front end, I don't see any reason to pull the engine for a cam swap. I'm almost done, and I think I'll have about 22 hours of labor in it(including valve springs, trunnion upgrade, etc). I'd be happy to answer any questions, and I hope this helps someone who is on edge about doing this like I was.

I could NOT get my chain off, even after pinning the tensioner and unbolting the oil pump for more room. Maybe I should have used a little more muscle. Don't know. The Oilpan drop added say 1 hour off, 1 hour on.

[Mavericka70]

Originally Posted by oldman

I could NOT get my chain off, even after pinning the tensioner and unbolting the oil pump for more room. Maybe I should have used a little more muscle. Don't know. The Oilpan drop added say 1 hour off, 1 hour on.

It was tricky. What finally did it for me was loosening the oil pump just a little more and then rolling it off the back of the pulley with a screwdriver.

[oldman]

OMG.. I was trying to roll it forward, backward would work.

Here would have been my guide to make sure it went back on TDC

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Mavericka70

It was tricky. What finally did it for me was loosening the oil pump just a little more and then rolling it off the back of the pulley with a screwdriver.

[G2K]

Darn i wish someone in Florida would do this... it would save massively on the cam labor.
I would love to try it myself but never opened up an engine this way to feel comfortable enough to do it alone

[WhiteNight]

Thanks for the post. Glad it can be done Gen IV style. Done many of those.

[DFW1LE]

This is how my shop did it on my car last September. However, getting the radiator out can be a bit of a PITA.

[BradfordCamaro]

Time is money. Fastest is to pull it.

[G2K]

Originally Posted by BradfordCamaro

Time is money. Fastest is to pull it.

While this is true. With the simple word engine pull increments labor by 1.5K

[oldman]

more like dropping the engine and trans is reasonably quick. Still I found no issue so far even dropping the pan was a hour job... big deal.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by Mavericka70

I saw some people asking if it was possible to do a cam swap without pulling the engine or opening up the ac lines, and never saw any definite answers to that question. I just wanted to point out that it is possible, because I just did it. After removing the radiator, you can lower the condensor without disconnecting any of the lines, giving a very clear shot at the cam.
Overall, this swap wasnt all that bad. If you're patient with all the plastic clips and shrouds on the front end, I don't see any reason to pull the engine for a cam swap. I'm almost done, and I think I'll have about 22 hours of labor in it(including valve springs, trunnion upgrade, etc). I'd be happy to answer any questions, and I hope this helps someone who is on edge about doing this like I was.

How did you get the radiator completely out? I'm assuming the radiator has to completely come out while the condenser stays in with the freon hoses attached. Looks like the circular clips have to come out but then do I have to pull the horizontal cooler too in front? The radiator and condenser both move together and seem like they want to come out enough so they jiggle around but won't. Does the radiator end up pulling straight up?

[oldman]

You gotta pull the front clip, the radiator has a few hoses and two mounts the come off from the top, AFAIK, there is no need to touch the side radiators, they all join to the main radiator via lower hose and that is out of the way.

I pulled my condenser cause it is easy to evacuate and recharge, but mine is a 2016, the with R134a, the new R1234 is like $100 a pound (I paid $100 for a 30 lbs bottle or R134a 20 years ago from Costco). I would be cautious flexing the fan. BTW you can just refill any year with R134a.