[Padge23]

As much as I try not to be a guinea pig, I'm pretty sure I was in this case. So as a word of warning, I strongly advise against Racing Brake rotors for track use. My front rotors lasted exactly 8 track days and 1,873 total miles (approx 40% track) before structural cracking (see pics). Not what you'd expect from a set of $1,500 rotors from a company named Racing Brake. The company has been radio silent concerning my repeated complaints, and they were very responsive on the front end. I'm left to assume they know their products are inferior and do not stand behind them. Live and learn.

I'm an intermediate level HPDE driver, still running stock GY3 tires and Raybestos ST-43 pads (funny I changed the pads at the same time as the rotors and the pads still have a couple more track days on them).

[TRZ06]

Question...

Why did you feel the need to change out your brakes in the first place. The SS 1LE already comes with very stout 6 piston Brembo brakes.

I can see maybe a pad change, but really this car pretty much has racing brakes off the showroom floor.

[SS 376]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Question...

Why did you feel the need to change out your brakes in the first place. The SS 1LE already comes with very stout 6 piston Brembo brakes.

I can see maybe a pad change, but really this car pretty much has racing brakes off the showroom floor.

That is beside the point. A brake advertised for track use probably shouldn't have the structural failure OP has shown us. OP, please keep us posted on whether the company tries to engage with you on this.

[Padge23]

I was really interested in saving a little rotating weight on the rear rotors by going to a 2 piece, but the rep convinced me to go all four. I know, I know...should have stuck with my initial thought, with the reduced load, the rear rotors still appear to OK (for now at least). Looks like the company has pulled the ability to buy the SS 1LE kit from their website, perhaps based on my complaints.

[Padge23]

My original stock rotor rings were in need of replacement as well. Granted these rotors were more expensive, but I was going to be shelling out regardless - so it was a good point, in my mind, to make the switch. Anyway think of me and my motivations what you like, my point in posting was simply to convey a bad experience with a product and a company so hopefully others can avoid the same mistake.

[Idyll]

Yep, looks like the losers pulled the product for the SS 1LE...

https://racingbrake.com/2523

[JamesNoBrakes]

Yes, rotors with holes in them often crack.

[TrackClub]

OP, thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately, a company can name themselves pretty much whatever they wish, or so it seems. I have never seen such design before, with large holes drilled into the slots. Obviously, this would be a big red flag for me, on many levels.

Note, that "racing" doesn't necessarily mean better longevity. Often times (real) race teams run the lightest components they can get away with for a given race.
Most often than not, they will replace these components after a single race. Especially brakes, but not only. Unfortunately, many folks assume that "race" automatically means longer life. Often times that's not the case.

There was a thread recently with badly cracked AP Racing rings, but again, they were smaller than stock. Running smaller discs with pads which put out more heat will always lead to failures sooner. There is no way around it. Not dissing AP Racing as they make top quality stuff (and i had used them for many yrs on my previous car), but one must reset their expectations for lighter components accordingly. Not only regarding disc longevity, but also caliper assemblies, hubs, etc.
Ditto should be considered when running higher torque pads, btw.

Just to add to your warning, a simple "on track excursion" by some amateur, seemingly permits folks to call their products "track tested", or "race", or whatever. For any component. Dont really blame them per se, as they need to eat and effective marketing often decides whether they do, or dont.

If you wish to achieve max longevity, run stock rotor assemblies, which are very beefy, plus stock pads. The latter are very capable on any track and dont put out a lot of heat. This means all components as mentioned above last much longer. I can routinely outbrake club level full on race cars in my stock car. So, as an intermediate level driver, focus on your driver mod first and foremost. And save your money IMHO anyway. Cheers!

[BlueinTN]

Interesting the slots went all they way thru the rotor to the vanes. I cant remember seeing that before.

[Padge23]

This forum is about information on the cars (I think) and I tried to provide some. I'm probably overly sensitive since this was my first substantive post, but I've seen it happen to others as well. I think it is funny that the responses generally take this to the personal level of essentially stating in some form "you are a moron for buying these". I know that, I established that, I made a mistake and I paid the monetary penalty. Based on that mistake I'm simply trying to provide info that may help others in the forum - maybe you never would have made this mistake, if so, you can easily ignore - for any others, aren't you glad you didn't have to pay for this info yourself?

I was trying to upgrade the car, something a lot of folks on this forum try to do, what if these rotors had been the next best thing since sliced bread, lasted forever and dissipated heat like no body's business? Maybe we shouldn't jump on OP's for at least trying to provide useful info, otherwise they may quit posting?

To a similar end, a couple of other mods that I don't think were worth the money were the G-Force aluminum driveshaft and the Anderson Composites rear deck lid. I do not consider these complete failures like the RB rotors, but they were both - how do I say this, "subject to some misleading weight savings information". Yes, I know, I am a moron for these purchases as well, feel free to respond as such if that somehow makes you feel better about yourself. Or, in an effort to save you the trouble - you are a better/smarter person than I, in fact I think you are perfect, now please go forth be happy and spread joy.

TrackClub, I know you always have the best intentions. I completely agree the driver mod is the weakest link in my current set-up, I'm still new to track days, and I absolutely love working on that mod at every opportunity my schedule allows. But hey, I'm also a gear head and my nature is just that I will always try to improve the car side of the equation as well.

[Coded4SS]

That's a interesting design. I'm surprised it's just not slotted. Anything drilled is a waste. They will crack. Many companies say racing rotors or pads. It dosnt mean anything. I've got shit chineese rotors that burned up in 500 miles that were racing. This wasn't on the Camaro. Stick to reputable brands or if 1le just stay stock. The brakes are great

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Padge23

This forum is about information on the cars (I think) and I tried to provide some. I'm probably overly sensitive since this was my first substantive post, but I've seen it happen to others as well. I think it is funny that the responses generally take this to the personal level of essentially stating in some form "you are a moron for buying these". I know that, I established that, I made a mistake and I paid the monetary penalty. Based on that mistake I'm simply trying to provide info that may help others in the forum - maybe you never would have made this mistake, if so, you can easily ignore - for any others, aren't you glad you didn't have to pay for this info yourself?

I was trying to upgrade the car, something a lot of folks on this forum try to do, what if these rotors had been the next best thing since sliced bread, lasted forever and dissipated heat like no body's business? Maybe we shouldn't jump on OP's for at least trying to provide useful info, otherwise they may quit posting?

To a similar end, a couple of other mods that I don't think were worth the money were the G-Force aluminum driveshaft and the Anderson Composites rear deck lid. I do not consider these complete failures like the RB rotors, but they were both - how do I say this, "subject to some misleading weight savings information". Yes, I know, I am a moron for these purchases as well, feel free to respond as such if that somehow makes you feel better about yourself. Or, in an effort to save you the trouble - you are a better/smarter person than I, in fact I think you are perfect, now please go forth be happy and spread joy.

TrackClub, I know you always have the best intentions. I completely agree the driver mod is the weakest link in my current set-up, I'm still new to track days, and I absolutely love working on that mod at every opportunity my schedule allows. But hey, I'm also a gear head and my nature is just that I will always try to improve the car side of the equation as well.

Well, the path to hell is paved with best intentions - as the saying goes

I did thank you in my very first sentence and to be clear: i think you've done our community a great service by posting about your experience. So kudos to you again, just to make this point clear!

I had tried offering generic comments, not at all pointed at you personally. I very much appreciate that advertising and hype can cause anyone to waste money (been there, done it myself).

I also appreciate, that some folks also get a lot of enjoyment by modding their cars (again, been there, done it myself). To this end, the modding hobby is valid all onto itself. Basically, it all depends on what makes us happy and what our priorities are.

But, if somebody is a truly dedicated track rat, chasing pace as a top priority, then car mods take a different seat relative to a driver development mod. I can tell ya that most folks would absolutely love to mod their cars so they were as well balanced and capable as an SS 1LE out of the box. Of course, stickier tires wil make it go even faster.

I went against a pretty well driven, modded gen 5 ZL1 with about 750hp and NT01s on Friday and the young gun refused to believe i drove a stock SS. His GF simply observed he got spanked by a better driver. And to be fair, he was a very nice guy and we had a good laugh together. I also passed a GT3, a GT3 RS, a C7 Z06 and a C7 ZR1. And a new Lambo (unsure of the model).
So, once again, having a faster car is no quarantee at all that a driver will be able to make it go faster. If a driver can get 95% out of an SS and a Lambo driver can only get 80% out of their car, they will be easy pickings. Nothing about the car here, all about a driver mod. That's why i continue to stress it, if laptimes are a priority.

BTW, that reminded me of me being in the ZL1 driver's shoes,when i refused to believe an old guy who could pass me at will in his stock Stang vs my supercharged one, with full suspension and brake mods - many moons ago. Apparently, i am now "that old guy" lol!

But it all depends on what makes us happy, as that should be our final goal here. Period. Full stop. So, have fun and enjoy it!

Cheers!

[Redlinez]

That sucks and thanks for posting up. I think the owner at KNS is quite knowledgeable and makes solid recommendations based on what you're trying to accomplish. Of course, different tracks are very different on brakes. I personally will stick with stock rotors and possibly upgrade pads if I do more than one HPDE in a year. I did quite well with my stock 2017 Camaro SS, so this 1LE version is leagues better. I went from a 2015 Mustang GT performance pack with 6 piston Brembos to my 17 SS with 4 piston, and now back to 6 piston. I just adjusted my driving style some and still did quite well and had a blast. At higher levels (like solo), I'm sure it gets much more aggressive. I've been limited to the guys in front of me at every event with PCA, so my brakes haven't been a factor.

[Padge23]

Thanks to all for the advice, sounds like staying stock is the recommendation and that is good to hear. I'm going a different route however...before I wrote this OP, I ordered the AP Racing BBK for the front with the 390mm rotors. I too have had a very good experience with Ken at KNS and placed the order with him. Perhaps this is more than I need, but these components are all about heat management and there is one particular local track configuration which has "cooked" my front calipers (they are now a much darker shade of red and the "1" in 1LE is a light brown) and I experienced brake fade after about 15 minutes during each session. I've always run with titanium pad shims and SRF fluid (luckily). Anyway, I prefer the extra insurance.