01-15-2019, 11:00 PM | #1 |
The Mechanic
Drives: 1SS M Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 291
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Full cradle bushing swap DIY
Since I couldn't find a write up or anything on installing a full replacement bushing I figured id go ahead and make it. Something about paying twice the price to get the cradle insert that deliver half the performance just didn't sit right with me, so I took a chance with the bigger job of a full replacement and it turned out to be cake. Its easier then expected and id recommend saving your self the $170 difference and going with a more solid product.
First off these are the directions and they arent much help. I used motivation from the 5th gen video someone posted on youtube, this is the same process. First step is to remove your exhaust system from the rear subframe area, muffler too if your still stock. I have the speed engineering mid pipes and headers so the muffler was left in place. I was working on my friends alignment rack for this so from the floor jack perspective you will have to improvise a little. I then removed rear wheels and the front portion of the splash guard( bend it out the way). I then removed the lower shock bolt on the right side along with the brackets and front and rear main subframe bolts. (one side at a time) I then placed a small block of wood on the side i am not pressing such as the rear and wedged a socket wide enough to cover the metal portion of the front bushing. ( i think i used a 32-34mm) I then applied pressure to the subframe in a location that it wouldnt slip off, this was a simple hand twisting shoulder jack, i didnt use any special equipment for this. You want to load it up with as much upward force as you can to the socket and then apply heat evenly around the loaded bushing until it smokes and begins to slide out(I used MAP gas for about 2-4 min but propane should work just takes a little longer), keep adding and adjusting upward force to the subframe. The bushing will come only about half way out and then you can pry it the rest of the way. As seen in the pics there is no metal sleeve, these are just glued in bushings. Now switch the wood and socket and do the rear bushing, once cooled I cleaned the opening with a wire brush and solvent, wipe till dry and remove all residue. New bushings will then just pop in, lube the tubing and use C clamp to drive it in, install large washers and bolt it up but dont fully tighten yet. Now repeat process on the other side, dont burn the abs line running around the rear left bushing area. once all 4 bushings are complete fully tighten to supplied TQ specs. Use a TQ wrench its pretty high and you don't want to break one of these bolts over killing it or under tightening. I needed a 2nd person to help align the bolts due to the removed slack in the new sleeves and the supplied rear bolts are not tapered. Reinstall shock bolts, exhaust and splash guards. As seen in this picture you remove a lot of free movement in the bolt sleeve as well which is very good, under high load these open areas are known to move even properly torqued. I don't think I missed anything but let me know if I did or if anyone has any questions about it. This has to be my 2nd favorite mod next to the headers at this point. I have always done reasonably priced subframe inserts on previous car models with good results, but this is a huge difference and a way better value for performance then inserts in this cars case. Much less squat and no more dancing around turns in the rear if you're a circuit guy like me. It feels like you some hard springs were installed in the rear but over all it feels like it matches the front more now.
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BTR 225 w/CNC Heads|JLT intake|Speed Engineering 1"7/8 long tube and mid pipe|LT2 manifold w/95mmTb|Self tuned w/HPtuners|Silvers 2Way coilovers|Hotchkis front sway|Advan AD08R|BMR solid cradle bushings|Recaro SR7| Work ZR10 19"
Last edited by Joey Soul; 01-17-2019 at 12:47 PM. |
01-16-2019, 04:16 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 143
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Awesome, this is what the forum needs more of. DIYs w/ pics
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01-16-2019, 05:21 PM | #3 |
The Mechanic
Drives: 1SS M Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 291
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I know, there isn't much activity on this forum so i try to help where I can with diy and reviews.
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BTR 225 w/CNC Heads|JLT intake|Speed Engineering 1"7/8 long tube and mid pipe|LT2 manifold w/95mmTb|Self tuned w/HPtuners|Silvers 2Way coilovers|Hotchkis front sway|Advan AD08R|BMR solid cradle bushings|Recaro SR7| Work ZR10 19"
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01-16-2019, 08:01 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2018 Hyper Blue 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Dessert
Posts: 486
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Mind if I ask why you decided to go the Poly route instead of the GM aluminum 'bushings'? I know Poly is about half the cost, just wondering.
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2018 Hyper Blue Metallic 2SS 1LE with Nav, PDR, and track alignment
1:34.20 Willow Springs Big Track |
01-16-2019, 11:13 PM | #5 |
The Mechanic
Drives: 1SS M Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 291
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Poly is cheaper and I got them on the black friday deal but I felt the zl1le metal pucks might not be that crazy of an improvement in handling and control over a solid poly bushing to justify the cost and increased vibrations. If they where both the same price i may have gotten the metal ones just to say i have them lol but with the money saved I can now put it toward diff bushings
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BTR 225 w/CNC Heads|JLT intake|Speed Engineering 1"7/8 long tube and mid pipe|LT2 manifold w/95mmTb|Self tuned w/HPtuners|Silvers 2Way coilovers|Hotchkis front sway|Advan AD08R|BMR solid cradle bushings|Recaro SR7| Work ZR10 19"
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01-17-2019, 02:38 AM | #6 |
Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,298
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Poly will still give you the smallest bit of compliance, where you get zero from the ZL1LE bushings. When you have MRC, even the Touring setting is stiffer than the soft end of the gas shocks of non-MRC cars and the compliance factor of the factory arms and bushings all pitch in to smooth out very minor road imperfections that the MRC shocks won't react to.
OP, you're a brave dude for getting in there. I believe the factory cradle bushings are installed chilled to allow them to slide in and then stick to the cradle as they expand (yay, rubber). There might be a couple stripes of glue on the bushing before it goes in, but that is probably temporary adhesive while the bushing warms and seats itself. |
02-19-2019, 04:48 PM | #7 | |
The Mechanic
Drives: 1SS M Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 291
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Quote:
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BTR 225 w/CNC Heads|JLT intake|Speed Engineering 1"7/8 long tube and mid pipe|LT2 manifold w/95mmTb|Self tuned w/HPtuners|Silvers 2Way coilovers|Hotchkis front sway|Advan AD08R|BMR solid cradle bushings|Recaro SR7| Work ZR10 19"
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03-06-2019, 12:52 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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noticed you didnt remove the calipers. looks like your stretching the hoses quite a bit. probably should remove them for anyone reading this. what about the ABS wires? dont want to pull on them either. What about the driveshaft? that has to be removed too.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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03-06-2019, 01:35 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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Ill be doing GM ZL1 1LE-spec 84341929 scord a set at shopchevyparts for $378.50 with newyear discount code. comes with all the torque to yield bolts including alignment bolts. https://www.shopchevyparts.com/perfo...-92298179.html
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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03-06-2019, 01:04 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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got email 60 days the national backordered
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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03-06-2019, 02:27 PM | #11 |
Drives: 22' Porsche PDK GT4 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 2,014
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Ouch!! Long wait.
They are worth it though.
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Current:
22' Porsche PDK GT4 (MCS 2-way remote dampers) Previous: 18' NFG 2SS 1LE (ZL1 1LE solid rear cradle bushings & Corsa Exhaust) 16' F80 M3 (Ohlin R/T Coilovers) 13' Audi TTRS (APR Stage 1, MSS Springs) 09' C6 Z06 08' E90 M3 06' 335i (KW V2 Coilovers) 03' C5 Z06 |
03-06-2019, 11:08 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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it will put me just befor my vacation so no biggie. good time to install them.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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03-26-2019, 07:12 AM | #13 | |
The Mechanic
Drives: 1SS M Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 291
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Quote:
Why would u remove the drive shaft? You can remove the calipers if u want but they didnt provide much resistance to me or the abs lines because you only come down a bit and majority of your force is going upward.I had no issues, damage or warning lights after the job but people are welcome to add extra steps or add time to the job. This is just an outline for people who dont know what to expect. Sounds like your ready to make your own writeup since you have done the job already �� lol.
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BTR 225 w/CNC Heads|JLT intake|Speed Engineering 1"7/8 long tube and mid pipe|LT2 manifold w/95mmTb|Self tuned w/HPtuners|Silvers 2Way coilovers|Hotchkis front sway|Advan AD08R|BMR solid cradle bushings|Recaro SR7| Work ZR10 19"
Last edited by Joey Soul; 03-26-2019 at 07:32 AM. |
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03-26-2019, 07:44 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2014 Cyclone mustang Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Port Lavaca,Tx.
Posts: 355
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Nice job and an aid to the forum, I use BMR cradle lockouts and 4pt. front brace w/Steeda bushings. BMR Rules!
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2014 Cyclone/Select Shift/"/Sold
2016 ruby red GT w/3.55:1/resonator delete X- pipe/UPR catch can/Airaid "tube"W/AEM/J&M/BigWorm/BMR /SVE /ZL1addons/Redline/Steeda/BG fluids/ |
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