[Dixie ZL1]

Many companies sell the parts and pieces, but the real value is in the controller. I’ve used AEM and Snow many times and Alky seems to have the best “Kit” for our cars, but the Torqbyte controller is far ahead of anything else on the market.

I’ve built many systems with bits from Devils Own (excellent windshield washer tap BTW) and highly recommend you research the Torqbyte controller (link below) If you want a highly programmable and flexible system with many failsafe features.

https://torqbyte.com/products/cm5-lt...ion-controller

[Dixie ZL1]

Side note - you want to place the nozzle after the TB to avoid damage. TB’s are not designed for exposure to fluid and will fail with an upstream nozzle.

[wookwook]

I have some charts. If the best of what I have been able to pull here, if this stays true into the hot months I am happy. Here is late fall vs. early spring. The AIT Temp number is about the same.

Graph 2 has the newer mishi pipes, the zzp compressor upgrade and snow MW running about 12% on nozzle 3. Never mind the info out there about having to fill every 2 trips to the gas station. This thing likes to drink. Alot.

MY car which is the LTG 2 Liter Turbo has a completely different set of needs and responses than a SC based engine. The 2T plateaus out early and boost flat lines at 250 kpa. It is not a smooth ramp. Secondly the 2T has issues with sitting heat soak, not heat gain down the track. The early high spray seems to take over the high heat load and this gets the intake temps down fast.

I am very pleased with the outcome so far. Getting it dialed in for track time in a few weeks. Today's chart has spark topping out at 6.5 vs the last years that stays at 4 degrees through out the pull. STFT is managing lamba very well. I haven't done any re-calibrations to anything yet, this is out of the box. I really don't think that there are adverse reactions with cast AL, brass and SS and HDPE on the path to the cylinders. No KR or any issues.

As I was expecting and along with a little good luck on some things its playing out Exactly as I was hoping. Anyways, its not your typical enthusiast mod, and your own confidence level should be your guide.

These are 5252 RPM power levels during a hard pull in 3rd gear in each graph.



Last year at NED on 10-23-19






After MODs and back online 3-8-2020

[wookwook]

what.












.

[wookwook]

Update. I've been adjusting the flow rates on the spray. The controller (and system) seems to be very stable, repeatable and predictable. There is a starting number its arbitrary like a dial lets say. It starts the ramp up, and I am targeting just as the boost pressure hits peak during a hard pull.

A second number that is the max flow. I've since adjusted the working envelope lets call it, and the injection is very conservative. And consumption has gone down a lot. So the dial is set for 17 to start and say about 22 at peak for around town and might go to say 28 on the track for example as long as AFR and STFT is happy managing on its own.

I am pretty impressed right now, and glad I did it. There are no irreversible changes to the chassis, at least of any consequence.

I think for LTG owners you really have to appreciate the value we have in our own wideband sensor integrated with the ECU and how it controls the engine.

[zedts1986]

Looking forward to seeing some 0-60 numbers from you this spring, Wook.

[wookwook]

Yeah once the tires get softer. I did a start and seems like I sat there for a minute and still clocked a 5.4


As in I was just spinning, I spin all the way through 2nd.

[Start The Machine]

Are you seeing any measurable gains in HP Tuners?

[wookwook]

the graphs 5 posts up. its all there.

EDIT: Wait, Are you asking about peak to peak? I would have to go back and look, but the peak TQ I recorded was 409 and HP was about 385 ish?. It depends on the type of pull you will get different results. Plus there has been super high baro pressure here which gives you a boost in numbers. I prefer to look at the curve crossing because you can see what the high end HP is doing. I will hit the dyno when I get time. My wife says it is too powerful. So its probably just about at a good spot. lol.

[wookwook]

One more edit. I think you meant with the boost cooler power alone.... No I don't have that data today. I think of it as a conditioner rather than a power adder. I think for me it is my intention to try and make a better environment protect the engine with the bigger turbo.. But that being said I can feel a difference when the spray kicks in. Its been raining here so I don't have any pulls to find out yet.

I am thinking that when the heat comes and it will, the boost cooler will do its job and the engine wont have to go into protective measures like pulling timing or tps shutting. Rather I want to see what I don't loose in low pressure hot air ambient. If that makes sense. 400 x 380 is pretty good numbers in HP tuners with no KR and its been below sea level DA here lately. I hope to protect that all around. I will eventually do comps with no spray and find out. It might not be a big gain in terms of percent, but any positive is better than a reduction which is certain to come in the heat. Or less of a reduction it possible.



I can go on and on about how the fueling works but maybe for another thread. Anyways, I feel highly confident that the system works as advertised. The pump motor is very substantial, and seems as trustworthy as any fuel pump. I'm not depending on "boost cooler" for power, but I will definitely test the limits on the track in limited doses.



Drifted a little but there ya go.
W




Another EDIT: sorry I just needed to complete that thought. So if the old mechanics tale holds true as a rule of thumb 1 percent of HP per 10 degrees of lower air temps lets say for the sake of argument, I am seeing a 30 degree reduction in F as I am now, that's 3 percent of lets use 400. So the HP, or the loss of HP in high AIT is in the neighborhood of 12HP plus or minus using that rule. Or up to 16HP if I see AIT or manifold temps hit a 40F reduction where it goes to 140F in the summer waiting in line at NED at the starting line. So add in the ancillaries like positive spark advance and higher octane and heat removal in combustion, I would say that 20HP+ over non-boost cooled, or saving that loss of HP, is not out of the question. And it does windows to boot. Will test that theory, and let you guys know. Is that worth $600 for the project? Over the long haul I think it will be. Its a blast to drive.

[wookwook]

seems like the heat of summer is just taking so long. but I have a starter chart with cooler spring temps. this is ww fluid cut in half and I use a one under sized nozzle. again trying for a not 'depend on' setup.

[Start The Machine]

Are those crank #'s?

[wookwook]

Yeah HP tuners logs. After some more tuning.