V6 to ZL1 Brakes Conversion: Help!

[SinginHawk]

Hey guys and gals, I will be upgrading my V6 brakes to ZL1 calipers in the near future, and I’d love some insight into what parts I’ll need on-hand! I’m not car savvy enough to do this level of work on my own, so arming myself with knowledge is the next best thing.

Here's my understanding of what I will need, please let me know if this parts list is incomplete or if anything is unnecessary:

Things that I have:
ZL1 Brake Calipers
ZL1 Stock Rotors
ZL1 Stock Brake Pads
ZL1 Stock Brake Lines
ZL1 Caliper Pins and Pad Retainer

Things that I will get:
TTY caliper bolts
Larger bore master cylinder (SS/ZL1)
DOT3 brake fluid
Trim the lip off of the front/rear dust shields for rotor clearance.
Braided Stainless Steel Lines

If anyone could point me in the direction of specific vendors, parts, or part numbers to bring with myself to the mechanic that would be incredibly helpful.

Also, what parts might I expect the mechanic to already have access to (thus I may not need to buy them beforehand)?

[Eddiefuzz]

You don't need anything, from what I can see. The calipers have the pins and retainers already in them. The front calipers have the lines attached, so you don't need the washers for them, if the rear lines have been removed you'll need the copper washers. You can used the backing plates on your car now, just trim the rear dust shields. I Highly Recommend the SS Master cylinder, I didn't notice a difference in braking until I did it. Here's where I might get beat up. I reused my caliper bolts.......

[Lil' Nasty]

Eddie nailed it I would personally get new TTY bolts...mine cost me less than 10$ from Maureen. Also the backing plate on the fronts are replaced by the ZL1 plates. There's a part number on the chevy performance instructions that also list everything you need.

[SinginHawk]

Originally Posted by Eddiefuzz

You don't need anything, from what I can see. The calipers have the pins and retainers already in them. The front calipers have the lines attached, so you don't need the washers for them, if the rear lines have been removed you'll need the copper washers. You can used the backing plates on your car now, just trim the rear dust shields. I Highly Recommend the SS Master cylinder, I didn't notice a difference in braking until I did it. Here's where I might get beat up. I reused my caliper bolts.......

I'll replace the caliper bolts, they're cheap enough and it's not worth the worry to save $20. I'll get the master cylinder for sure, thanks for confirming that.

Originally Posted by Lil' Nasty

Eddie nailed it I would personally get new TTY bolts...mine cost me less than 10$ from Maureen. Also the backing plate on the fronts are replaced by the ZL1 plates. There's a part number on the chevy performance instructions that also list everything you need.

What do you mean by 'the backing plates are replaced'? I don't think that I have the ZL1 backing plates, do I need them?

[Eddiefuzz]

You put "backing plates" in your OP, I assumed you were talking about dust shields. You'll be fine with the dust shields on your car, just trim the rears. It takes 30 seconds with a Saws All. The Master Cylinder is easier than doing 1 caliper, if you're planning on having a shop do the work.

[SinginHawk]

Originally Posted by Eddiefuzz

You put "backing plates" in your OP, I assumed you were talking about dust shields. You'll be fine with the dust shields on your car, just trim the rears. It takes 30 seconds with a Saws All. The Master Cylinder is easier than doing 1 caliper, if you're planning on having a shop do the work.

Oh, yes, I was just quoting what I'd been told in passing. Thank you for clarifying!

[Lil' Nasty]

Originally Posted by SinginHawk

I'll replace the caliper bolts, they're cheap enough and it's not worth the worry to save $20. I'll get the master cylinder for sure, thanks for confirming that.







What do you mean by 'the backing plates are replaced'? I don't think that I have the ZL1 backing plates, do I need them?

The front V6 shields are taken off and are replaced by the ZL1 Shields.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PyroLT]

I've done the same swap on my 1LT using a set of ZL1 take offs.

Everyone above basically hit all the important points on doing this already. Figured I would weigh in as well.

From looking at your pictures, you have every part needed to be able to do this as is. Some things to note however:

1. Get new TTY caliper bolts. Everyone already said this and you stated you were going to, so your good there. While some people reuse them fine with a little thread locker put on them, IMH brakes are no place to cut corners.

2. Unless you have extra cash, don't worry about replacing any of the dust shields. These are the backing plates being discussed. I trimmed mine using a air cutoff wheel and had no issues. You will need to trim both the fronts and backs due to the ZL1 front calipers being larger. If you ever need to revert to stock you can just buy some OEM ones and put them back on.

3. Getting the SS/ZL1 master cylinder is definitely recommended but not required. I have mine sitting the garage waiting to be installed but I still feel the difference without it.

4. Same for the stainless lines. They will hold up better over time as they will not expand when braking like the standard hoses will. Many threads on the forums for this if you look around. These are also waiting to go on mine.

5. Putting DOT 4 fluid in when you flush the system wont hurt anything for sure. However DOT 4 will more readily absorb water and therefore need to be maintained more than DOT 3. Unless you will be doing hard braking to really heat up the brakes than you won't be utilizing the full benefits.


Some other things to consider as well, depending on the miles or condition of the brakes you may want to break them down and rebuild them. This really would only be need if the dust boots are in bad shape as the seals and pistons may be worn then.

When I rebuilt mine, I want as far as to powder coat them metallic candy red as they were already apart. It doesn't cost much but really makes the kit pop.

I linked a few pictures of mine to give you an idea.

[RandRSS]

Originally Posted by PyroLT

I've done the same swap on my 1LT using a set of ZL1 take offs.

Everyone above basically hit all the important points on doing this already. Figured I would weigh in as well.

From looking at your pictures, you have every part needed to be able to do this as is. Some things to note however:

1. Get new TTY caliper bolts. Everyone already said this and you stated you were going to, so your good there. While some people reuse them fine with a little thread locker put on them, IMH brakes are no place to cut corners.

2. Unless you have extra cash, don't worry about replacing any of the dust shields. These are the backing plates being discussed. I trimmed mine using a air cutoff wheel and had no issues. You will need to trim both the fronts and backs due to the ZL1 front calipers being larger. If you ever need to revert to stock you can just buy some OEM ones and put them back on.

3. Getting the SS/ZL1 master cylinder is definitely recommended but not required. I have mine sitting the garage waiting to be installed but I still feel the difference without it.

4. Same for the stainless lines. They will hold up better over time as they will not expand when braking like the standard hoses will. Many threads on the forums for this if you look around. These are also waiting to go on mine.

5. Putting DOT 4 fluid in when you flush the system wont hurt anything for sure. However DOT 4 will more readily absorb water and therefore need to be maintained more than DOT 3. Unless you will be doing hard braking to really heat up the brakes than you won't be utilizing the full benefits.


Some other things to consider as well, depending on the miles or condition of the brakes you may want to break them down and rebuild them. This really would only be need if the dust boots are in bad shape as the seals and pistons may be worn then.

When I rebuilt mine, I want as far as to powder coat them metallic candy red as they were already apart. It doesn't cost much but really makes the kit pop.

I linked a few pictures of mine to give you an idea.

Did you take the calipers to any place special? I have been worried about having them masked off correctly! Thanks!

[toehead93]

backing plates and dust shield are two completely different things. You are rights about the dust shield. The backing plate is the small stainless steel plate between the back of the pad and the caliper pistons. They come with stock pads but I'm not sure where to get them if you need them for aftermarket pads that don't come with them. Im currently looking for some myself. I remember finding a plac years ago that sold titanium backing g plates but I prefer stainless steel if I can find them.

[SinginHawk]

Originally Posted by PyroLT

I've done the same swap on my 1LT using a set of ZL1 take offs.

Everyone above basically hit all the important points on doing this already. Figured I would weigh in as well.

From looking at your pictures, you have every part needed to be able to do this as is. Some things to note however:

1. Get new TTY caliper bolts. Everyone already said this and you stated you were going to, so your good there. While some people reuse them fine with a little thread locker put on them, IMH brakes are no place to cut corners.

2. Unless you have extra cash, don't worry about replacing any of the dust shields. These are the backing plates being discussed. I trimmed mine using a air cutoff wheel and had no issues. You will need to trim both the fronts and backs due to the ZL1 front calipers being larger. If you ever need to revert to stock you can just buy some OEM ones and put them back on.

3. Getting the SS/ZL1 master cylinder is definitely recommended but not required. I have mine sitting the garage waiting to be installed but I still feel the difference without it.

4. Same for the stainless lines. They will hold up better over time as they will not expand when braking like the standard hoses will. Many threads on the forums for this if you look around. These are also waiting to go on mine.

5. Putting DOT 4 fluid in when you flush the system wont hurt anything for sure. However DOT 4 will more readily absorb water and therefore need to be maintained more than DOT 3. Unless you will be doing hard braking to really heat up the brakes than you won't be utilizing the full benefits.


Some other things to consider as well, depending on the miles or condition of the brakes you may want to break them down and rebuild them. This really would only be need if the dust boots are in bad shape as the seals and pistons may be worn then.

When I rebuilt mine, I want as far as to powder coat them metallic candy red as they were already apart. It doesn't cost much but really makes the kit pop.

Thanks for the great insight! I will be having my calipers powder coated before installation as well - going to get "2/LT" written on them instead of "ZL1".

I'll probably stick with DOT3 per your recommendation, I won't be needing the higher heat capacity for street driving.

[PyroLT]

Glad I could help out. Once your done make sure to put up some pictures for us all to see.

Originally Posted by RandRSS

Did you take the calipers to any place special? I have been worried about having them masked off correctly! Thanks!

To have them powder coated I called around to a few local places and spoke to the guy that would be doing them. Normally you should be able to tell if the guy is competent enough and has experience doing calipers during the conversation. Ask them to see some of their work when you go by the shop.

One other point, make sure that the person doing them will be removing the boots/pistons/seals or else they will be baked. I did this myself as I was rebuilding them anyway.

Honestly, if you have an air compressor and some spacers to put between the pistons plus time, do this yourself and it will save money. Feel free to PM me on any specific questions about it.

Also to clarify from toehead93's post, he is correct that backing plates and dust shields are completely separate parts. In the above posts the term backing plates were being used to refer to dust shields and I did not feel the need to clarify. Since someone else did clarify, I feel compelled to agree as he is correct.