Road course tires

[Zl1dad]

Originally Posted by Notilloc

What do you mean they take too long to warm up? If they are taking multiple laps to warm up you can still push quite a bit harder on the stock tire. The tires should be up to temp by the first lap and getting greasy by the 3rd or 4th lap.

I start out 28psi cold. 1.5 mi track. Just started tracking it so yea I'm sure I could push is harder but it takes about 4-5 laps to get to about 35psi then I can push it harder for the next few laps, they're about 37 psi when I get off track

[Zl1dad]

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

if you have to do one set, just get MPSS and be done with it. its like the brake discussion. i want racing brakes but i dont want squeal or dust... i want R comp tires but i want a tire that goes 30,000 miles and is good in the wet. that tire doesnt exist.

MPSS or sport cup 2. Sport cup 2 is my 2nd choice.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Zl1dad

The re71 widest option is 295, stock is 305, I definitely don't wanna go down in width. They proxes are track only. How will they perform on street.

(1) Tread compound is more important than small differences in section width.

(2) Tread width is more important than small differences in section width. Pay at least as much attention to this measurement; just because a 305 claims to be a wider tire than a 295 doesn't necessarily mean that its tread is any wider. Or even as wide.

(3) MPSS tires, 300 treadwear and all, can pull in excess of 1.3 lateral g's on a fully streetable/daily drivable car - at least when they're mounted on rims at or near max-recommended and after you've got them heated up a bit on the track (I have the datalogs to back this up). They also wear well, but you'll want to put a few hundred easy to moderately driven street miles on them first to help ensure that longevity.

Michelin's new PS4S is supposed to be better still.


Norm

[JOHNSONROD]

????

The OP asked about track tires....

The R888's are the best track tire for the ZL1 at this time. I'm looking forward to seeing if the new GY's G3's will be made in are 35 series tires.

Whats all this road tire talk? He didn't ask about a good track and street tire.

Originally Posted by Zl1dad

The re71 widest option is 295, stock is 305, I definitely don't wanna go down in width. They proxes are track only. How will they perform on street.

looks like he then asked about the street. he wants a track tire he can drive on michigan streets. i tried to give him good info based on his criteria.

[Zl1dad]

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

????

The OP asked about track tires....

The R888's are the best track tire for the ZL1 at this time. I'm looking forward to seeing if the new GY's G3's will be made in are 35 series tires.

Whats all this road tire talk? He didn't ask about a good track and street tire.



looks like he then asked about the street. he wants a track tire he can drive on michigan streets. i tried to give him good info based on his criteria.

I appreciate everyone's input. I'm new to cars. I'm a diesel mechanic and came off a R6 600cc bike. Wrecked it 11 months ago and lost my left foot and bought my Zl1 in January . And yes it's a 6 spd

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

????

The OP asked about track tires....

The R888's are the best track tire for the ZL1 at this time. I'm looking forward to seeing if the new GY's G3's will be made in are 35 series tires.

Whats all this road tire talk? He didn't ask about a good track and street tire.

With fewer track days in a car under his belt than I have fingers on either hand, plus a desire for at least acceptable performance in general street driving, max and extreme performance summer tires are still clearly on the table. When he wears these out will be time enough to revisit the matter of tires . . . and at that time running a dedicated track set separate from the street set will likely start making a lot of sense.

I have to wonder what the typical instructor would think upon finding himself sitting right seat in a 550+ HP car fitted with R-compound tires, and driven by a person of mostly unknown (to the instructor) skill and only three or four days experience.


What's the hurry? Smooth driving at 1.3g > seat-pucker moments at 1.55g in a car that's under control at 1.50 . . .


Norm

[bkevind]

I'm probably going with the Goodyear G:2 again, or maybe the Nitto NT01R.

[toehead93]

RE71s are for autocrossing especially with cars as heavy as ours. The tire compound will spread apart under the heat generated at track events. I've sent pics of other cars attempting this.

Also, the R888s are an old compound that a lot of people don't like. The new newer R888r compound is something I'd consider but not the R888s.

[Zl1dad]

Originally Posted by toehead93

RE71s are for autocrossing especially with cars as heavy as ours. The tire compound will spread apart under the heat generated at track events. I've sent pics of other cars attempting this.

Also, the R888s are an old compound that a lot of people don't like. The new newer R888r compound is something I'd consider but not the R888s.

So the re71r's are almost as much as the r888r's but say they are for Street use as well but in the down fall re71s only have W speed rating. Not that I will be topping that speed at the track but just don't like to feel restricted.

[Aliveguy5]

Originally Posted by toehead93

RE71s are for autocrossing especially with cars as heavy as ours. The tire compound will spread apart under the heat generated at track events. I've sent pics of other cars attempting this.

Also, the R888s are an old compound that a lot of people don't like. The new newer R888r compound is something I'd consider but not the R888s.

I have the R888R's on my ZL1 and the rears are completely smoked after two track days and less than 1k in miles. I also lost significant lap time after using those compared to my hankook's Ventus RS 12's or whatever they were called. I feel it's because the fronts are 285/35/20 and the rears are 315/30/20's. I think with the added grip to the rear and lower profile tire it shifted the geometry of the vehicle and my car performed worse because I lost grip in the front. Just a FYI for those looking at the Toyo's. I asked Toyo if they've seen anything like this before and they kindly told me to go pound sand vs. looking into how they wore out so quickly.

[Synner]

If the 1k miles were street miles then you likely heat cycled them out combined with the undersized front overworking the tire. Best to go down to a 19" and then you can do 305 all around on a dedicated track set.

[Aliveguy5]

LOL not street miles unless I was doing burnouts back and forth from the gas station. What you said below I'm already working on and thank you for the tip. I also think that I explained that in my last post but maybe if no one understood what I wrote I hope your restating it will help others. I also did check the option to have them heat cycled from Tire rack so I hope that mitigated what you're saying. What I will say is that the Toyo is a very soft tire and while I need more data to make a statement my current belief is that the tire is too soft and has way too much grip for the STOCK ZL1 tire setup. These are probably great if you have 305's on the corners however I won't buy them again after Toyo would not engage in a conversation to help me figure out what the problem was. I'll be looking at the Z28 setup and will either switch to Nitto's or full blown racing tires.

Originally Posted by Synner

If the 1k miles were street miles then you likely heat cycled them out combined with the undersized front overworking the tire. Best to go down to a 19" and then you can do 305 all around on a dedicated track set.

[Synner]

It doesn't take burnouts to heat cycle a tire. Just driving to the store and back causes a heat cycle. These types of tires only get so many heat cycles before they harden and turn to crap.

[Notilloc]

Originally Posted by Zl1dad

I start out 28psi cold. 1.5 mi track. Just started tracking it so yea I'm sure I could push is harder but it takes about 4-5 laps to get to about 35psi then I can push it harder for the next few laps, they're about 37 psi when I get off track

Why and how are you watching your tire temps on the track? There is no need to wait for the tires to get to 35psi before you start to push. At 35psi they are already way past their Max grip. Your tires will give you the most traction on laps 2, 3 and 4. I wouldn't recommend going to a more aggressive tire until you know the car really well. The more aggressive you go the less communicative the tires are, the more important alignment becomes and most importantly the faster the brakes overheat. Good luck out there and stay safe.