NO CRANK- SERVICE THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

RedTexasSS · 02-19-2018, 07:36 PM

Anyone experienced this problem ? Car was parked for 3 weeks waiting for good weather. Sun was out Sunday and I decided to go for a ride. Turned the key, no crank and a Service Theft Deterrent System message on the DIC. The car will start and runs when using the remote start feature but dies when the key is inserted and turned to the run position. All functions on the remote work properly. I purchased the car used with only one key, a switchblade key. Always intended to get a spare key but never did. I disconnected the battery and re-connected, same result. All the fuses are good. Tried a relearn procedure I was told about, leave key on for three 10 minute cycles and the key should relearn, it didn't work either.

ZL1C7 · 02-19-2018, 11:12 PM

Try using the key to lock then unlock the drivers door. Then try and start. If that doesn't work use your HP tuners to disable Vats and see if anything changes

RedTexasSS · 03-14-2018, 06:38 PM

Let me post the fix in case someone has the same problem in the future. I used a Snap-on scanner to check for codes, found trouble code B3935 stored. The description for B3935 is transponder authentication error. The key was not being recognized. I contacted a locksmith and had an inexpensive standard key cut. I performed the procedure to relearn the key. New key on for 10 minutes until the security light goes out, turned the key off and back on for two more 10 minute cycles. The car started and ran as it always has. The remote no longer worked. I purchased an OEM style switchblade key from a vendor on the internet. Had the locksmith cut the new key and then performed the add key procedure for the key/remote. The add key procedure is... use the learned working key to turn the ignition on, with engine off. Turn off the ignition and remove the key, within 10 seconds insert the new key, turn the ignition on. The vehicle has now learned the new key. I was surprised a key would go bad when a car is parked but I'm glad it was nothing more serious.

Rock-It Man · 03-14-2018, 06:53 PM

Geeze louise. Go to a Chevy dealer and get two legitimate keys.

And a word to the wise: don't buy a car with only one key. Something stinks in that case, and you will pay a chunk of change to fix it.

RedTexasSS · 03-14-2018, 08:56 PM

I was going to have the recall done and get two keys. Dealer wanted the car at the shop and wanted me to leave it. I didn't want to tow it and wasn't going to leave it at the shop.

Camaro__ss · 08-25-2020, 09:44 PM

Reviving an old thread here, but I thought I would share. I changed my car battery the other day, the original one was 7+ years and starter was beginning to drag. Everything seemed fine for 24 hours. Drove the car to work. After work went to start it and no crank. Service theft deterrent system message. Battery was showing 12.5 v but I thought maybe I got a bad battery, tried to jump it connecting to battery and under the hood, nothing. I ended up taking an Uber home. The next day the car starts using my other key. Here’s my point. The key that failed is a switchblade type. It’s an aftermarket one. The “original“ key that works is a key that had the recall done. My theory is that the switchblade keys are more prone to failure for some reason. Perhaps the transponder gets loose or moves to far from the ignition antenna after awhile. Anyway, that is probably part of the reason for the recall, not because a driver might hit the key with their knee and turn the ignition off. I tried it, and it’s pretty hard to do. I wonder how many folks who had “service theft deterrent system” problems only had them with switchblade type keys?

Mouse330 · 08-26-2020, 09:28 PM

FYI
If your switchblade key does not fully open and click straight the car won’t start.
Will create a theft deterrent issue

RankSS · 08-27-2020, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mouse330

FYI
If your switchblade key does not fully open and click straight the car won’t start.
Will create a theft deterrent issue

Where did you find this information? I am skeptical.

Camaro__ss · 08-27-2020, 10:29 AM

Switchblade left me stranded. Car won’t recognize the chip. I’m sure I could reprogram it but I don’t trust it now.

Mouse330 · 08-28-2020, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RankSS

Where did you find this information? I am skeptical.

from GM

Axe55 · 07-09-2021, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedTexasSS

The add key procedure is... use the learned working key to turn the ignition on, with engine off. Turn off the ignition and remove the key, within 10 seconds insert the new key, turn the ignition on. The vehicle has now learned the new key. I was surprised a key would go bad when a car is parked but I'm glad it was nothing more serious.

I know this is a bit old, but I'm going to bump it up. I had a spare key that I hadn't used since I bought the car, and my original switchblade key started to fall apart. When I tried to use the spare after 9 years, the car didn't recognize it and the "service theft deterrent system" came up when I tried it in the ignition. I followed the above steps and the key is working again, both for ignition and as a remote. In case anyone has a similar issue.

02-19-2018, 07:36 PM	#1
RedTexasSS Drives: 2012 SS Red w/ black rally stripes Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 45	NO CRANK- SERVICE THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM Anyone experienced this problem ? Car was parked for 3 weeks waiting for good weather. Sun was out Sunday and I decided to go for a ride. Turned the key, no crank and a Service Theft Deterrent System message on the DIC. The car will start and runs when using the remote start feature but dies when the key is inserted and turned to the run position. All functions on the remote work properly. I purchased the car used with only one key, a switchblade key. Always intended to get a spare key but never did. I disconnected the battery and re-connected, same result. All the fuses are good. Tried a relearn procedure I was told about, leave key on for three 10 minute cycles and the key should relearn, it didn't work either. __________________ 2012 SS Camaro, Victory Red w/black rally stripes, SLP front splitter, ZL1 Rocker panels, ZL1 Add-ons Stealth Wickerbill, L99, Magnuson Heartbeat supercharger, 65 lb. injectors, 87 mm pulley, ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM,1 7/8 Texas Speed long tube headers, v-max ported throttle body, Rotofab cold air intake with Apex scoop, Apex catch can, MSD plug wires, AEM AFR and Boost gauges, GPI SS1 VVT Cam, HP tuners with remote tune by Ryan at GPI, Solo axleback exhaust w/j pipes and stock resonator.

02-19-2018, 11:12 PM	#2
ZL1C7 Drives: 2023 SS 1LE 10SPD/2015 SS 427 Man Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Sacramento Area Posts: 803	Try using the key to lock then unlock the drivers door. Then try and start. If that doesn't work use your HP tuners to disable Vats and see if anything changes __________________

03-14-2018, 06:38 PM	#3
RedTexasSS Drives: 2012 SS Red w/ black rally stripes Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 45	Let me post the fix in case someone has the same problem in the future. I used a Snap-on scanner to check for codes, found trouble code B3935 stored. The description for B3935 is transponder authentication error. The key was not being recognized. I contacted a locksmith and had an inexpensive standard key cut. I performed the procedure to relearn the key. New key on for 10 minutes until the security light goes out, turned the key off and back on for two more 10 minute cycles. The car started and ran as it always has. The remote no longer worked. I purchased an OEM style switchblade key from a vendor on the internet. Had the locksmith cut the new key and then performed the add key procedure for the key/remote. The add key procedure is... use the learned working key to turn the ignition on, with engine off. Turn off the ignition and remove the key, within 10 seconds insert the new key, turn the ignition on. The vehicle has now learned the new key. I was surprised a key would go bad when a car is parked but I'm glad it was nothing more serious. __________________ 2012 SS Camaro, Victory Red w/black rally stripes, SLP front splitter, ZL1 Rocker panels, ZL1 Add-ons Stealth Wickerbill, L99, Magnuson Heartbeat supercharger, 65 lb. injectors, 87 mm pulley, ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM,1 7/8 Texas Speed long tube headers, v-max ported throttle body, Rotofab cold air intake with Apex scoop, Apex catch can, MSD plug wires, AEM AFR and Boost gauges, GPI SS1 VVT Cam, HP tuners with remote tune by Ryan at GPI, Solo axleback exhaust w/j pipes and stock resonator.

03-14-2018, 08:56 PM	#5
RedTexasSS Drives: 2012 SS Red w/ black rally stripes Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 45	I was going to have the recall done and get two keys. Dealer wanted the car at the shop and wanted me to leave it. I didn't want to tow it and wasn't going to leave it at the shop. __________________ 2012 SS Camaro, Victory Red w/black rally stripes, SLP front splitter, ZL1 Rocker panels, ZL1 Add-ons Stealth Wickerbill, L99, Magnuson Heartbeat supercharger, 65 lb. injectors, 87 mm pulley, ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM,1 7/8 Texas Speed long tube headers, v-max ported throttle body, Rotofab cold air intake with Apex scoop, Apex catch can, MSD plug wires, AEM AFR and Boost gauges, GPI SS1 VVT Cam, HP tuners with remote tune by Ryan at GPI, Solo axleback exhaust w/j pipes and stock resonator.

03-14-2018, 06:53 PM	#4
Rock-It Man 376 cubic inches of fun Drives: 2023 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: MA Posts: 4,028 View My Garage	Geeze louise. Go to a Chevy dealer and get two legitimate keys. And a word to the wise: don't buy a car with only one key. Something stinks in that case, and you will pay a chunk of change to fix it.

08-25-2020, 09:44 PM	#6
Camaro__ss Drives: 2013 L99 Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: San Antonio TX Posts: 185	Reviving an old thread here, but I thought I would share. I changed my car battery the other day, the original one was 7+ years and starter was beginning to drag. Everything seemed fine for 24 hours. Drove the car to work. After work went to start it and no crank. Service theft deterrent system message. Battery was showing 12.5 v but I thought maybe I got a bad battery, tried to jump it connecting to battery and under the hood, nothing. I ended up taking an Uber home. The next day the car starts using my other key. Here’s my point. The key that failed is a switchblade type. It’s an aftermarket one. The “original“ key that works is a key that had the recall done. My theory is that the switchblade keys are more prone to failure for some reason. Perhaps the transponder gets loose or moves to far from the ignition antenna after awhile. Anyway, that is probably part of the reason for the recall, not because a driver might hit the key with their knee and turn the ignition off. I tried it, and it’s pretty hard to do. I wonder how many folks who had “service theft deterrent system” problems only had them with switchblade type keys?

08-26-2020, 09:28 PM	#7
Mouse330 Drives: 2011 2SS, 2006 GMC Sierra Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: MA Posts: 239	FYI If your switchblade key does not fully open and click straight the car won’t start. Will create a theft deterrent issue

08-27-2020, 10:29 AM	#9
Camaro__ss Drives: 2013 L99 Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: San Antonio TX Posts: 185	Switchblade left me stranded. Car won’t recognize the chip. I’m sure I could reprogram it but I don’t trust it now.