[ndnashlenz]

Looking to hear from those running BMR or ZZP Trailing arms. Which one would be better quality. BMR I can buy the parts individually and are about $120 for upper and lower trailing arms, the toe rods are adjustable but $260 which means I would need an alignment. ZZP on the other hand have not heard of them before but have the set for $500, upper trailing and lower trailing arms and their toe rods are non-adjustable meaning no alignment.

https://zzperformance.com/collection...-trailing-arms

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...629&superpro=0

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...625&superpro=0

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...628&superpro=0

[racerx8]

BMR makes an excellent product. I have BMR trailing, control arms and cradle lockout on my '18 SS 1LE, I highly recommend them.

[Vtor_ZL1]

What are you looking to gain... or loose ?

[ndnashlenz]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

What are you looking to gain... or loose ?

I guess I'm looking to get better handling going into and out of corners. As well as reducing wheelhop. Not doing anything competitive, just want to have some fun with the car and when I go out with friends at a autocross event or a drag strip.

[NickyRacerBoy]

Just installed on car adjustable lower and upper trailing arms.
Not tested yet

[supersportss]

Rear cradle lockout will help with wheelhop more than the training arms, do more reading,
not to be an ass, http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=pro...productid=1635. will probably help more than trailing arms.

[jmason]

Doing some testing on some billet arms this week

[davidwarren]

what about SPL? Those are the gold standard replacement arms.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

what about SPL? Those are the gold standard replacement arms.

Those are the ones i have been looking at but they are $$

[Msquared]

This is always an interesting topic. A couple of people are alluding to what I'm about to write. You need to understand the function of the links to decide if they should be replaced. Any of these stock links are really only make to react loads along their lengths - i.e., tension and compression. The stamped pieces are going to be fine for that purpose. They use rubber axial bushings, which means they need to have some ability to twist without lots of force, to avoid bind. They are intended to be torsionally flimsy for that reason, and that's also why the bushings are just rubber.

If you add arms that are stiffer in torsion, or poly bushings that resist off-axis movement, then you introduce bind. That's not good.

OTOH, if you add links that substitute heim joints for the rubber bushings, then you essentially have no torsional resistance. That's good. You also gain freedom of movement in any plane around the center of the heim joint. That's also good because it means no bind for off-axis arm motion (and there is going to be some of that movement due to the geometry). You also eliminate bushing slop, which is usually better, unless the slop was intentionally used to make passive alignment changes as loads vary. And you also gain some adjustability of length for each link, so probably a better range of alignment options. You may get increase NVH, which is not considered good. And rod ends may wear faster than rubber with the rigors of street driving.

It's all tradeoffs. Some here are saying the cost:benefit is not great for these links compared to the cradle bushing mods. That probably requires experience and a serious day of timed testing with the various alignments the heim-jointed links allow. That's the only way to know if they're really better.

[Laststandard]

Originally Posted by ndnashlenz

...BMR toe rods are adjustable but $260 which means I would need an alignment. ZZP on the other hand have not heard of them before but have the set for $500, upper trailing and lower trailing arms and their toe rods are non-adjustable meaning no alignment.

You'll need an alignment if you replace the toe rods. BMR toe rods make it a bit easier because you don't have to mess with the cam bolt for rear toe.

Yes, you could mark the cam bolts and try to get them back in the same location when you replace with ZZP, but a little toe change can lead to a lot of tire wear.