[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Thanks but I put a set of wiscos in with the stock rod instead of the car being down for a few months waiting on rods. So if the piston is the same weight maybe I could do the lt4 rod. I probly never do over the 750 or less.

Why did you replace the stock LT1 pistons in the first place?
Do you know the bobweight of the Wiseco pistons you put in?

Finally, did you put in the pistons with the motor inside the engine bay, or did you pull the motor for the install?
How difficult was it and to which gap did you file the rings to?

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Why did you replace the stock LT1 pistons in the first place?
Do you know the bobweight of the Wiseco pistons you put in?

Finally, did you put in the pistons with the motor inside the engine bay, or did you pull the motor for the install?
How difficult was it and to which gap did you file the rings to?

Well front seal blew out. Blow down test was 75% on number 2 with all others being 95%. Air coming up from center of the oil air separator that's mounted to the water pump. Thats why. Tare down I found the smallest crack in the ring land. Between the top and second ring . Almost did not see it. My wife popped it out with her fingernail ha. About an inch long.

Wisco was identical in weight and compression. piston rings pin and clips were weighed for both to the gram.

I did it with the motor in the car. I had a different 19 that seized a rod and pulled the motor. Course had to in that case to change the crank.

Just doing pistons not necessary and way easier to me. Did not have to put ac compressor alternator drive shaft transmission stay bolted. To pull drive shaft you have to pull complete exhaust.

Used engine hoist to lift front of motor to get the oil pan off. Not bad at all and 100 times easier than pulling the motor.

I messed up the ring gap. If I had it to do over and i probly will I would get it down to about 18. Stock was 11

Finally there iS no FUC##ING WAY IN HELL THE RING BUTTED. Rings do not butt enough to break a piston and do no other damage. Are stock lt1 pistons a crap shoot and crappy YES!!! What does a person expect out of a 30 dollar piston. lol


I think for sure that if you blow the front seal, better ch the blow down. Bet ya got a cracked piston in between the top and second ring. Even stock ones do it

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Well front seal blew out. Blow down test was 75% on number 2 with all others being 95%. Air coming up from center of the oil air separator that's mounted to the water pump. Thats why. Tare down I found the smallest crack in the ring land. Between the top and second ring . Almost did not see it. My wife popped it out with her fingernail ha. About an inch long.

Wisco was identical in weight and compression. piston rings pin and clips were weighed for both to the gram.

I did it with the motor in the car. I had a different 19 that seized a rod and pulled the motor. Course had to in that case to change the crank.

Just doing pistons not necessary and way easier to me. Did not have to put ac compressor alternator drive shaft transmission stay bolted. To pull drive shaft you have to pull complete exhaust.

Used engine hoist to lift front of motor to get the oil pan off. Not bad at all and 100 times easier than pulling the motor.

I messed up the ring gap. If I had it to do over and i probly will I would get it down to about 18. Stock was 11

Finally there iS no FUC##ING WAY IN HELL THE RING BUTTED. Rings do not butt enough to break a piston and do no other damage. Are stock lt1 pistons a crap shoot and crappy YES!!! What does a person expect out of a 30 dollar piston. lol


I think for sure that if you blow the front seal, better ch the blow down. Bet ya got a cracked piston in between the top and second ring. Even stock ones do it

Good information right here specially that Wiscos (+Accessories) weigh the same as the stockers.

What mods did you have at the time of failure? If boosted, which kind of system was/is? on the motor
Was this on pump gas? 91 or 93?
Who tuned the car?
What was the avg. boost level PSI?
Did you end up correcting the ring gap on these Wiseco pistons?

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Good information right here specially that Wiscos (+Accessories) weigh the same as the stockers.

What mods did you have at the time of failure? If boosted, which kind of system was/is? on the motor
Was this on pump gas? 91 or 93?
Who tuned the car?
What was the avg. boost level PSI?
Did you end up correcting the ring gap on these Wiseco pistons?

Procharger at about 7 with 93 and meth about 24000 then for no reason sized a rod number 7. All pistons were perfect. No signs of deto. No reason ever found. All bearings did not look that great including cam bearings.0w40 mobil 1 Put in new crank 2 new rods used all same pistons and rings ect. Ran strong sold bought a 2019 vert. Ring gap again was 11 thou.

Same except with lt2 intake on the vert. Now using 15w50 mobil 1 all the time. About 7000 miles and blew the front seal 600 miles or so from home. This tare down bearings looked excellent. Put in wiscos. about 8000 ago.
Rick Clark in texas remote tune. Procharger tunes SUCK!!! so do they kinda!!! I play with the tune to get it more to my style and things I like.


I made 660 with the stock piston at about 10 pds stock piston.

No the wiscos still have too big of a gap. My mistake.

I run a slightly smaller piston with 12 ring gap at over 32 pds (makes more but thats all a 3 bar will read) and 9600 rpm. Never has a ring gap problem. That little 4 cylinder motor makes gobs of more power than this chevy motor per size.

Thinking of more of a build maybe dreaming is a better term lol

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Procharger at about 7 with 93 and meth about 24000 then for no reason sized a rod number 7. All pistons were perfect. No signs of deto. No reason ever found. All bearings did not look that great including cam bearings.0w40 mobil 1 Put in new crank 2 new rods used all same pistons and rings ect. Ran strong

Was this with Procharger's canned tune?
Was this on stock LT1 fueling parts?
What kind of Ign. timing did you run with Meth?

Did you ever try 93 pump without Meth on this setup?
If yes, what kind of Ign.. timing did you have dialed in for 93?

[Eldi Z]

[QUOTE=Kerry;11090764] sold bought a 2019 vert. Ring gap again was 11 thou.

Same except with lt2 intake on the vert. Now using 15w50 mobil 1 all the time. About 7000 miles and blew the front seal 600 miles or so from home. This tare down bearings looked excellent. Put in wiscos. about 8000 ago.
Rick Clark in texas remote tune. Procharger tunes SUCK!!! so do they kinda!!! I play with the tune to get it more to my style and things I like.


I made 660 with the stock piston at about 10 pds stock piston.

No the wiscos still have too big of a gap. My mistake.
/QUOTE]
15W50 is probably too viscous for the motor. So now you have the Wisesos with too big of a gap? Do you get piston slap or any kind of things that stand out because of it?
I guess 660 WHP was 10 pds with Meth?
Professional tune should definitely be better than Procharger's canned tune?
Where do you still see the issues with the Pro tune (Vs. Procharger tune)?

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Kerry

I run a slightly smaller piston with 12 ring gap at over 32 pds (makes more but thats all a 3 bar will read) and 9600 rpm. Never has a ring gap problem. That little 4 cylinder motor makes gobs of more power than this chevy motor per size.

Thinking of more of a build maybe dreaming is a better term lol

What engine / car is this 4 Cyl. ?

[EDFHOBBIES]

My buddy gave me his LT4 crank and 4 rods and pistons the other ones were destroyed along with block.

I was able to find 4 rods and left side pistons on ebay for 250 shipped low mileage just like my buddies parts. I only need to buy new rings and 2 right side pistons now..

while searching I spent countless hours on the phone with K1, Mahle, and others about what I should get and whats available. the K1 rod seems to be the go to rod. I was told to use the Summit rod by K1 he pretty much said they make for them.

He said the best thing to do right now if your in a hurry is to get the 6.125 Summit rod and Mahle and a few others have 4.065 and 4.070 pistons with -CC instock and that using that length rod opens up to a lot price and compression options. Drop ins and at 4.065 are scarce and so are 6.100 or 6.98 rods.

having got the 4 rods and 2 pistons used for 250 and needing to buy just 2x @ 109 ea pistons it was a no brainer for me to use the LT4 GM parts for my low budget wifes ss build.


How ever if I didn't have anything the best deal would be 515 for rods at summit and pistons for 800 like Mahle or one of the other top forged piston makers.


I was watching Steve Morris videos and he swears by pro comp H beams they were like 415.00 he said they are good to 11 to 1200 maybe 1500 if the assembler and tune was spot on.

Its really great that the LS rods are interchangeable it makes the price a little cheaper.