[radz28]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Yes I know...

But, you can clearly see how open the stock maggi is compared to the edelbrock. When I mean open I mean no casting material in front of the rotor pack (stage 2) I think it only fair to match since the maggi is 6300 plus a snout cost 300 to 400 bucks at the time the edelbrock was 52 to 5800 and kong porting was 1200 the price is the same if not lower counting the porting. Still haven't seen anyone log temps like me or making 1000 plus on a 8.3 lower and 3 inch upper they are all using 9.xx and 10 something to make 1000.

OK. I understand what you were saying now. You are completely right. Edelbrock was just choking those rotors. It's good there's a resource to correct that though. It probably doesn't make a big difference at my power level, but surely does at yours. I just wanted to be clear Magnuson did a disservice to themselves by saying Stage 2-port, even though there's no Stage 1, and that all the 2650s (in this application) are cast the same and sent out with the same case. I think, as far as you are putting it out there, asking for comparisons as you are require someone to have the same combination as you, which isn't too practical to expect. I get your point, but I don't know that trying to expect an apples-to-apples comparison is going to happen. At this point, it's probably a dead horse. Plenty of shops are getting more than 1100-WHP our of either, so does it matter that much? I still believe there's an edge to the Maggie, but I don't care enough to convince anyone else. I don't have a horse in the game.

[laynlo15]

You know I was there during the development I don't recall any stage 1 or 2 port options. There was a stage 2 up front intercooler upgrade which was capable of better cooling if I remember correctly, it held more coolant and there was a change in the fin design. Since I had one of the first 2650s I don't think any stage 1 or 2 porting was ever an option or promoted. I did add that larger intercooler later before we went to the Ls Fest and it did improve the cooling some. Now this has been since 2019 so I could be wrong but don't think so or maybe I'm just reading Radz post incorrectly.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by radz28

OK. I understand what you were saying now. You are completely right. Edelbrock was just choking those rotors. It's good there's a resource to correct that though. It probably doesn't make a big difference at my power level, but surely does at yours. I just wanted to be clear Magnuson did a disservice to themselves by saying Stage 2-port, even though there's no Stage 1, and that all the 2650s (in this application) are cast the same and sent out with the same case. I think, as far as you are putting it out there, asking for comparisons as you are require someone to have the same combination as you, which isn't too practical to expect. I get your point, but I don't know that trying to expect an apples-to-apples comparison is going to happen. At this point, it's probably a dead horse. Plenty of shops are getting more than 1100-WHP our of either, so does it matter that much? I still believe there's an edge to the Maggie, but I don't care enough to convince anyone else. I don't have a horse in the game.

Fair enough..

Hard to let it go when you have maggi and followers saying stuff about edelbrock that's not confirmed or accurate.

I spent less for my blower and porting than there unit and it's more efficient now till someone posts a 30 min clip of driving in 100 degrees cruising like me besting my iat 1, 2, and 3. mike says cruising and idling is the worst environment.

Shizzy and other jokers said I could install a chiller and It would never cool as well as a maggi. That's the bs I put up with so I'll never let go here, fb, or any social media I'll do my best to fuk w them any chance I get now. Sad but it's the truth.

My buddy David u know the one that got screwed by MTI just had a L8T built by LME he to is doing a Kong Edelbrock I expect him to be around 1200 plus. I'd be there but no built motor.. actually if could swap the 2 piece thrust bearing I would probably do it on the stock internals. His build should be identical but the cam.

[EDFHOBBIES]

A guy I helped set up his eforce just msg'd me on messenger THAT HE MADE THE QUICK 20 LIST. I was looking at the quick 20 list he sent me and low and behold it's infront of Magnuson! Now what shizzy, laynlo15, and toohighpsi. All the higher iats bs and maggi has the fastest cars bs means nothing now. Rabbitzl1 did it before and here it is again. There's probably a handfull of edelbrocks out there and 2 of them on the list over 1000s of Magnusons.

[laynlo15]

That was a great pass and I think Ron will get to the 8s at some point soon. Just so close and before long they'll all be 8 second Camaro's. Have to create a Gen6 Camaro slow list.

[EDFHOBBIES]

I'm on the slow list all ready

[EDFHOBBIES]

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/newre...ply&p=11169792

Quote from above thread...

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

So I know this is going to stir up some shit as usual, but for the people questioning if an interchiller is worth it? Even on my Maggie a 95F day I would be in the 135F+ range just cruising.

And this is why I say don't rule out the edelbrock and go on past performance or hear say! All the bickering with MIke.. toohighpsi, shizzysupra, laynlo15 about brick size and they are the best just isn't so.

No one's ever posted anything on IATs on the maggi until now I been waiting and waiting!

95 ambient 135 plus just cruising! finally got someone to post IATs where I have all ways shown mine.

I'm sure you will say I have a tank and exchanger to help but I'm also at 1000 way more than this guy.. And if you go back to read the threads you see where they said it would take a chiller to match iat's of the maggi.. what a load of BS to be put down when you know your right about your setup.

my IATs run like this.. if its 100F outside just cruising which MIKE says in video #3 that's when a blower is at the most inefficient time.

100F IAT1
110-112 IAT2
122-124F IAT3

I've noticed no matter the temp outside its always 10/12 more on IAT2 then 10/12 more on IAT3.

IF I to accelerate hard the IATs 2 and 3 come down 3 will go up to a few degrees after the hit but then falls back to where it was cruising.

Its supposed to be 95 today w 63% plus humidity.. will see if my IAT is 135 plus just cruising!

[JSH]

I've ordered Kong's Edelbrock 2650 because I have great faith in his stuff, and it has bosses in the casting that allow for port injection just in case I want to ... you know ... rotate the earth later on

BTW I'm calculating 2650 blower speed as follows: Lower pulley diameter / upper pulley diameter * engine speed.

So my 9.170” lower with a 3.50” upper and 7,000rpm rev limit would produce 18,340rpm blower speed.
That combo should make 15-16psi.

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/newre...ply&p=11169792

And this is why I say don't rule out the edelbrock

[EDFHOBBIES]

8.3 and 3 inch ported 18/19psi

[radz28]

Doesn't iDash have an MAT temperature? I can't recall if it does, but that's the one to focus on. That's the one the ECM adjusts spark from.

Even if it's not, logs I have show, on a 96* day, after a bunch of hits, cruising from 30-50 for a few miles, Ambient PID=96; IAT PID=100; IAT 2 PID= 113; MAT PID=180. After a 4-5 3rd and 4th gear rolls at WOT, within a time span of about 8-minutes, following around 3-minutes of around 50+ MPH, I see Ambient=95; IAT=99; IAT 2=113; MAT=176.

I'm pretty sure MAT is a separate channel on the iDash, so is that what you're calling IAT3? MAT is a calculated PID - not directly measured, if I'm not mistaken.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

8.3 and 3 inch ported 18/19psi

So that's 19,366 RPM, which KaTech describes as middle of the road, suggesting 20 or 21,000 or more might be possible. Cool.

[laynlo15]

We tested our Magnuson 2650s well past 26000 rpms, there are a few guys running or exceeding that 26000 rpm and boosting past 27 lbs. But when you get to those rpms you need to run the 10 rib as most have found past 25 lbs you start getting belt slip. Toohigh has a 10 rib setup with a much better tensioner then any on the market that I'm aware of and for sure better then Magnusons stock tensioner.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

We tested our Magnuson 2650s well past 26000 rpms, there are a few guys running or exceeding that 26000 rpm and boosting past 27 lbs. But when you get to those rpms you need to run the 10 rib as most have found past 25 lbs you start getting belt slip. Toohigh has a 10 rib setup with a much better tensioner then any on the market that I'm aware of and for sure better then Magnusons stock tensioner.

Good to know. Truth is, I don't know how hard I want to spin it. Kong and KaTech say 18,000 - 20,000 is fine, so the "road" width is currently defined as 18,000 to 26,000. Of course, the GT100, LPE BB and XDI +30 will have a lot to say about this too.

[laynlo15]

I know Jason's turning his 2650 past 26000 on his Zl1 with a lot of belt slippage. He's since fixed that with the 10 rib so if you consider turning it past 22 or 23000 you'd want to invest in the 10 rib with tensioner.