[TJay74]

Originally Posted by fastball

That doesn’t void the whole stinking drivetrain warranty. Good grief. They can only void warranty on the exact parameter or part failure that was modified if they can prove the modification caused the failure.

False, if you modify the ECM/TCM on a GM vehicle and bring the vehicle in for warranty work that the GM TIS department request a ECM/TCM snap shot they will void the entire drivetrain warranty on the vehicle if they find 3rd party tunes on those computers. Not every issue will require a TIS snap shot of the computers, but if it does you do take a chance of having the drivetrain warranty voided.

Audi has done this for years. You take your Audi into the dealer for work or even an oil change, Audi requires the computers be checked. If they find non-OEM calibrations in the computers Audi flags the vehicle "TD1" and declines any other powertrain warranty work.

[fastball]

Originally Posted by TJay74

False, if you modify the ECM/TCM on a GM vehicle and bring the vehicle in for warranty work that the GM TIS department request a ECM/TCM snap shot they will void the entire drivetrain warranty on the vehicle if they find 3rd party tunes on those computers. Not every issue will require a TIS snap shot of the computers, but if it does you do take a chance of having the drivetrain warranty voided.

Audi has done this for years. You take your Audi into the dealer for work or even an oil change, Audi requires the computers be checked. If they find non-OEM calibrations in the computers Audi flags the vehicle "TD1" and declines any other powertrain warranty work.

That is highly illegal. They can only void warranty repair work on a certain part if they can PROVE the modification you made DIRECTLY, SPECIFICALLY caused the failure of that EXACT AND ONLY part.

They cannot legally void your factory warranty for the entire drivetrain if you just change the parameter of one thing for one specific part or operation.

[srcstc]

Originally Posted by Walt88

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned how you apply brake pressure. If you lightly apply the brakes on a hill it doesn't engage, if you push the brakes hard it engages. It's how I choose whether or not I would like to use it. I have had 100% success rate doing it this way

Wasn't aware of that. Thanks


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[john94si]

Originally Posted by fastball

That is highly illegal. They can only void warranty repair work on a certain part if they can PROVE the modification you made DIRECTLY, SPECIFICALLY caused the failure of that EXACT AND ONLY part.

They cannot legally void your factory warranty for the entire drivetrain if you just change the parameter of one thing for one specific part or operation.

Sorry but they can and do. Dodge did it to me on my srt. Your only option is to get a lawyer and fight them and they know 90% people wont because the $ isnt worth the car warranty.

I see so many people quote Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. Good luck with that.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by fastball

That is highly illegal. They can only void warranty repair work on a certain part if they can PROVE the modification you made DIRECTLY, SPECIFICALLY caused the failure of that EXACT AND ONLY part.

They cannot legally void your factory warranty for the entire drivetrain if you just change the parameter of one thing for one specific part or operation.

Wrong as yes they can when it comes to calibrations and such. The Magnusson Moss Warranty act was for using aftermarket parts in place of the OEM parts for repairs or maintenance. It provides and allows no protection for modifying the calibration in the ECM/TCM.

The MMWA was setup so people could change their oil at home using a Fram Filter with Pennzoil oil. As long as the filter and oil meet the vehicle manufacture spec's then the manufacture could not decline warranty coverage unless the manufacture could prove that filter or oil caused the failure. Pure and simple, that is all the MMWA is designed for, that if while under warranty you replace a OEM part with a aftermarket part that the manufacture has to prove your 3rd party part caused the subsequent failure.

I have seen plenty of warranty blocks done here in the USA on Ford and GM, and plenty of owners on the Audi forum have confirmed that they are "TD1'd" with their warranty as well due to changing the calibration.

When you change the calibration in the computer it alters what GM provided to the .gov for when the certification process for that engine was approved by the EPA program.

[51FIFFT]

To each their own...But why? I too have been a 4/5/6 speed driver from day one and this does not affect anything in my driving style. Same goes for the skip shift, to be honest in the 35k miles I think I've hit it 5 times, when do I just go to forth. That's just me.
Now if the seat would just lay back more...

[Serpentsminion]

I don't like it either. Grew up without the sh*t, don't need it or want it. Just like that god DAMNED 1st-to-4th gear skipping crap it does. Been infuriating me for a year and a half. I just ordered a gadget I found on another thread to disable that garbage feature. I don't have any warranty left to void on mine so I may look into that datalink suggestion at a few places to see if disabling the h.i. can be done...

[L78toLT1]

I have never been without at least one manual transmission vehicle since I started driving in 1974 and I will say that this car is the most difficult to manage on hills due to the slightly nonlinear throttle response. It's not a big deal, but I have to wonder why Chevy cannot dial this in a little better. My current commuter car, a 2010 Mazda 6, m6 four banger is absolutely perfect in this regard, you would never know it has an electronic throttle body. The same can be said for various other ethrottle Honda/Toyota/Nissan vehicles I've owned over the years.

[Rhobz]

Originally Posted by srcstc

Don't know why anyone would want to disable it. It only works on steep hills and it's not intrusive whatsoever.

I wish it only worked on steep hills. My driveway is a very minor slope. I have to get out to open a gate before I park and when I get back in, I release the brake and wait for the hill assist to let go before backing into my parking. I don't want to disable the feature but I wish it wasn't as sensitive.

[VinnAY]

Its just jarring when you don't expect it and have driven stick for 30+ years it's an annoyance but as noted by one above you can mitigate it's activation with your driving style just like the skip-shift.

[MackSteelPrivateEye]

Originally Posted by Ebbsnflows

Does anyone know of a way to defeat/disable the annoying-ass hill-assist feature that GM felt the need to impose on everyone?

Not sure why its annoying, its only on for about 2 seconds or until you hit the gas. If its not releasing as soon as you touch the gas it needs retuning. Mine works perfectly, holds on the hill and launches immediately like its not there when I hit the gas. Is your sticking?

[MackSteelPrivateEye]

Originally Posted by ToeKnee Sea

my problem is I cant get the sequence right to activate it. I don't sit at a light with the clutch down and shifter in gear. It doesn't seem to work if you put it in gear and quickly lift the clutch. It needs to be in gear for a while...

Holding down the brake pedal firmly activates it.

[MackSteelPrivateEye]

Originally Posted by Serpentsminion

I don't like it either. Grew up without the sh*t, don't need it or want it. Just like that god DAMNED 1st-to-4th gear skipping crap it does. Been infuriating me for a year and a half. I just ordered a gadget I found on another thread to disable that garbage feature. I don't have any warranty left to void on mine so I may look into that datalink suggestion at a few places to see if disabling the h.i. can be done...

I never go 1 to 4, I naturally just go 1 to 3 anyway depending on my speed. 3rd easily replaces 2nd at low RPM.

[MackSteelPrivateEye]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I have never been without at least one manual transmission vehicle since I started driving in 1974 and I will say that this car is the most difficult to manage on hills due to the slightly nonlinear throttle response. It's not a big deal, but I have to wonder why Chevy cannot dial this in a little better. My current commuter car, a 2010 Mazda 6, m6 four banger is absolutely perfect in this regard, you would never know it has an electronic throttle body. The same can be said for various other ethrottle Honda/Toyota/Nissan vehicles I've owned over the years.

I agree, a cable throttle is a lot easier to control at low rpm than remote signal. What you input is what you get with cable.