[TrackClub]

A few folks here have asked me about the subject, so I've decided to consolidate the info, so it is in one place. Perhaps MODS will agree to make it a sticky. Thank you!

WHAT GEAR WILL YOU NEED AND HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

1. Firstly, one can use an existing TV, plus a decent PC, head set and a mouse. These components are necessary regardless of other rig choices below. The iRacing system adjusts frame rates and graphics depending on the PC capabilities, so there might be some quality throttling down, but still provide for a decent experience.
But, for somebody wishing to do it in a more dedicated fashion, keeping refresh frame rates higher vs lower will help with overall performance (likely talking of hundredths vs tenths) and provide for better display of all changes at speed. Better graphics card, will provide for more visible details, better picture quality, etc.

So, let's assume a gaming PC at about $1000 (memory and graphics card and cooling are the most important aspects here). There are private cos that will build one for ya, or one can buy a big name from a big store. Do some research. Mine is about $1400 in USD. Think twice about water cooling PCs as if you spring a leak it is disastrous.

A single TV works just fine, you just adjust the cockpit view according to its side to get a realistic view out of the windshield. The system calculates the distance from your eyes plus screen size and recommends the value automatically. On a single TV you will not see across the whole width of a windshield, but that's not an issue. 3 monitors solve this issue, but increase graphics load tremendously and may reduce frame rates. My TV is 38x22. Wider would be better, but mine works just fine. With a single TV you use steering wheel buttons to look L and R. With a 3 monitor set up this becomes largely unnecessary. Anyhow, gaming PC, TV, gaming keyboard/headset/mouse bundle:

$1,700 (and up from here)

2. The cheapest rig would be Logitech G923 (wheel base, steering wheel and pedals) for $500. It has the best table clamp, if the rig will be installed to a table top vs a dedicated seat rig. It is a base set up, but will still do the job, albeit other rigs will likely feel more robust and better mirror a RL experience. But, that's how i started. So, if you are on a budget, dont discount it as a valid option. NB i ended up upgrading my pedals to Fanatec gear first and then i got a Fanatec wheel base only when my Logitech croaked. So this is not all or nothing decison and a sim is better than no sim!

$1700+$500=$2,200

3. A step up from the above would be Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari 599 bundle rig (wheel base, steering wheel and pedals) for $880. So:

$1,700+$880=$2580

NOTE: the above wheels often go on sale, so my prices may be much higher vs those available during sales.

4. A step up from the above is Fanatec gear. ClubSport wheel base V2.5 at $549, ClubSport pedals V3 at $360, plus CSL Elite P1 steering wheel at $170 for a total of $1,079. This is a top choice before plunging into Direct Drive technology wheel base and custom pedals, which can introduce a big jump in $$$ (DD wheel costs more and requires a very sturdy seat rig). So:

$1,700+$1,079=$2,779

That's what i have. Many other steering options are available here, albeit for more money. Check Fanatec website.
Also, the pedals can be ordered in an inverted placement for $600. But, now you are getting close to custom pedals...

Fanatec gear has 3 levels: CSL which is basic, ClubSport which is now middle ground (used to be top dog) and Podium which is a new top dog. Whatever you buy, ensure it all can work together.

For those wanting to spend more, custom pedals will up this number by about $1,000-2,000+++. But, I dont think it is necessary per se as the Fanatec Club Sport pedals provide pretty high degree of fidelity. Also, dont buy a shifter as all cars can be shifted as sequential trannies with steering wheel paddles.

5. Current top dogs for wheel bases is Direct Drive tech. This eliminates belts and provides much more powerful force feedback. Most are much more expensive than the above choices, but Accuforce Pro V2 can be had for $999 including a steering wheel. You will need a very sturdy seat rig to mount this puppy onto, as it weighs 20lb and produces high forces. I would NOT mount it on my Obutto! It also requires a fair bit of customization to get the force feedback to your liking. So:

$1,700+$1,359=$3,059

6. Not sure about Thrustmaster, but for sure any Fanatec gear (and any DD gear) needs to be bolted in (vs clamped). There are big forces placed both on steering wheel and pedals. So, when picking a seat rig, ensure it is sturdy in 2 places: the wheel base location and its support and a plate upon which you bolt in the pedals is well supported. If you pick a flimsy design, it will bend and flex and spoil your experience. With that in mind, here are 3 seat rig choices:

Obutto oZone (what i have) at $393. It is compact foot print wise, yet very sturdy and has a comfy seat. Its plates may not come pre drilled, so DYI step here. I had to take mine to a sheet metal place as the steel was too hard for any of my drills. Also, the pedal plate may require a simple piece of wood or another stopper to make it completely solid (easy), plus drilling to attach pedals. Overall, ive had this rig for a few yrs now and i am very happy with it. The price is superb for what ya get (but this seat rig would NOT do for a DD wheel base). So:

$2,779+$393=$3,172

A step up from here *might* be a TrakRacer TR8 for $899. So:

$2,779+$899=$3,678

A more substantial step up (i think) from the Obutto would be an RSEAT S1 for $1,099. So:

$2,779+$1,099=$3,878

Given a $200 difference between the last 2, I'd get an RSEAT. But, as you can see, it is easy to make it a run away train $ wise. For the function and quality vs $ the Obutto cannot be beat imo. But, if i felt a need to upgrade, I'd get an RSEAT.

SUMMARY:

$3,200 gets you a dedicated seat rig, top quality steering base, ditto wheel and pedals, gaming PC etc. At this level, success will depend on your driving skill (and practice time in a BIG way to become familiar with a car, the venue, adjust for weather conditions, etc) vs quality of your equipment. 100% guarantee, as this is a proven race winning, Time Trial world record setting set up at the top level of iRacing competition.

Many pros use these components, albeit many go for pedal upgrades. But, imo this is splitting hairs, yet, it may become important if getting a tenth starts to matter to somebody. But if one is just starting on a sim this will be completely inconsequential for a long time. And maybe forever, so dont blow money away. It is way too easy to make a $3k rig into a $5k rig while getting only a nominal quality uptick in the process. Some folks spend 5 digits, but aren't any faster. Use your "value head".

There are plenty of sim gear reviews on YouTube. Most are objective. But remember: social media is a business and that's how many reviewers make their living (and get free gear).

Suggest you check a few YouTube reviews specific to what you are considering gear wise. Here are a couple of generic vids on:

2020 wheel base market review from $100 and up:



And here is another vid on 10 things to pay attention to when setting up a sim rig (a really good advice imo):




Lastly, a WARNING and a DISCLAIMER:

even a belt driven wheel, not to mention a DD wheel, can spin with enough force to brake your hands and arms. Such as during self calibration and/or when wrecking. Read all manufacturer warnings and be very aware regarding small kids especially.

I am not sponsored, i dont get free gear, i havent been on any other sim except for iRacing, i have not experienced a DD wheel, motion rigs, high end pedals, etc. I am not an expert. My only intent is to share my first hand experience during past 9 years, including my observations of others whom i know on iRacing.

This thread is foremost for somebody just getting into a sim and also accounting for different budgets. My recommendation to spend $3,200 is NOT necessary to enjoy a sim! One can find a cheap Logitech for $250, clamp it to any table, hook it up to their existing PC and TV and have at it. My recommendation is a middle of the road, DEDICATED sim rig, based on what has served me very well. It can be downsized, or expanded upon as one wishes.

FYI, if i were to upgrade my rig, i would follow this sequence:

1. 3 monitors with a proper stand to mount them
2. More sturdy seat rig and custom pedals
3. DD wheel

iRACING: HOW TO GET STARTED

You unpacked all your gear, bolted it onto a seat rig and connected all the wires (connect pedals directly to your PC vs wheel base for best performance. Also connect your wire to the Fanatec wheel base *before* bolting it on, as it is very difficult to do in reverse). You have downloaded firmware and drivers for both the wheel base and pedals. You have centered the steering wheel per the manual and customized steering wheel set up (PM me!).

Now, log in to iRacing. You will have to download its software (you may do it ahead of time btw) and may get some one time options here for a first log in. Follow instructions. Ensure you are in Classic UI vs New UI as the latter is harder to navigate (imo).
Press green Race Now button at upper right.
From left upper section select drop down menu of all available racing series. Select Fanatec Global Mazda Cup (a Rookie series).
Press Test Car on Track upper right. This will launch a sim test session (just you on a track).
Do NOT press Continue when it pops up! Instead wait for the session to load.

Once loaded go to Options upper right. You will have to calibrate your steering wheel to 880 degrees (best) and then pedals. Follow instructions. Note: it is a good idea to calibrate pedals each time you start up iRacing (press and release them slowly).

Then on L side you will have to make more set up adjustments according to your wheel base and pedals. PM for proper values before hand and i will send you a screen shot. Also select steering wheel buttons to look L and R. Turn Auto Blip on, Auto engine start, Auto tearoff.

Then go to Options (second bottom left) to further customize your set up. Suggest you unselect Show Chat Msgs while driving as they* interrupt focus. You can also program your steering keys to say Thank you, I am sorry etc.

Then go to Graphics and turn down some default choices to increase frame rates. Again, PM me for a screen shot. Also, deselect Show Driver Arms and select Hide Steering Wheel then enter your TV/monitor details per upper right to get proper FOV (field of view) calc. This will give you the most realistic view of the track from the cockpit. The more realistic FOV the more realistic feel and the best performance! Size of your TV will dictate FOV here.

Then go to Sound and ensure Enable Spotter is selected.

Then go to Controls. Here you can pre set more steering buttons as well as any PC "F" button or 2 on your keyboard for changing static selections such as force feedback level, horizon view etc. Also adjust your virtual rear view mirror % lest the cars will appear very small. I dont use any other mirrors btw.

Important keys to set up on the steering wheel are: Look L and R (either set a toggle switch for that, or if you get CSL WRC steering wheel than first outside buttons on L and R that you can operate with either thumb, Pit limiter and Brake bias. Relative (position) and Lap Timing each need a button too. Relative is what you should always have on during a race at all times to see how much time folks are ahead and behind you. Lap Timing is best when you are practicing by yourself with no other traffic.
Now press Done, then press Drive and have fun! Your selections will stay saved for all future sessions.

When you finish the session you can replay it whole, or by selecting a lap # using controls middle bottom. You can also use different views like cockpit, chase, TV, etc.
You can view your lap times bottom left.
Also Info will tell you weather specs etc.

To exit the session press Quit and then Continue. That's important for a clean exit back to a main iRacing menu screen.
You will also have a choice of saving it to watch it later. The file will be placed in your Replays accessed from the main page.

To join an official Practice with others, or TT, or Race, select type of session then click one highlighted in red in upper right.

A word on Force Feedback: after a few laps system calculates recommended level. But, if a system recommends 12, I usually use 4, etc. Dial it down so it feels like your real car. Your elbows and wrists will thank you!

iRACING FORMAT AND ROOKIE STRATEGY

1 yr costs about $120, or less based on deals.

IRacing suports Road, Oval, Dirt Road and Dirt Oval series. It provides for many different official series within these categories, from a single car class to multi class, short 15min races, to medium, longer (with pit stops) and even 24hr enduro *team* races. Leagues can be set up my members to race outside of official iRacing series. IRacing introduces new content and enhancements before each new season starts.

Some series offer fixed set ups so everyone drives the same car, others are open set ups necessitating adjusting the car each week (more on it later)

A season lasts 12 weeks and a new week starts each Monday. Usually most series run a new track each week, except for Rookies series, which repeat some track. Each series also offers official Time Trial competition, which is scored separately to races. One can run as many races and Time Trials, as one wishes. The best result for the week counts. Best 8 weeks count for the season and worst 4 are dropped. Time Trials score best 4 clean laps in succession (or more - venue dependent) based on average pace achieved.

When one first joins the service (as it is called), they are assigned a Rookie status, given some free Rookie cars and tracks. From there one has to purchase cars and tracks as they wish, or required given what series they wish to run. Every new track and car is about $12. Volume discounts are available.

Practice sessions allow for running with other competitors on the track, practicing driving in traffic, while not having to worry about safety rating. Official races and TT penalize for offs and wrecks, but also reward for clean driving.
Test sessions provide for private time at a track.

All competitors are assigned an iRating and a TTRating based on their performance. Also, everyone has a safety rating with 4.99 being the highest. Everyone has a safety license, from a Rookie, D, C, B and A. These provide access to more complex series and faster cars. It is a safety rating that promotes one to a next license rewarding clean driving. So if a Rookie drives clean and reaches 4.99 they automatically get promoted to license Class D. And so on. If one drives badly and drops below 1.00 they get demoted to a lower license.

iRatings are used to bunch people of similar experience together, based on splits. If a track can accommodate 30 pit stalls but 150 people sign up for a race, they will be divided according to their iRating into 5 splits. Each split running their own race. This makes it fair and enjoyable to all. BUT, not all series are equally popular, so if only 25 sign up a Rookie could find themselves amongst some top drivers. So, if somebody is just starting out with a target of reaching a class A and hence being able to compete in any series, then picking your series to get there really matters.

iRating is also used for classifying drivers into Divisions from 10 to 1 (the highest). This permits folks with equal experience to battle like folks for a Division championship even though they may have zero chance for an Overall Championship. As one's iRating grows, they get moved up to a higher Division. If it drops, they move back down. This all ensures everyone can compete for a trophy, which is great!

By far, the best strategy for a Rookie to progress quickly, is to run Fanatec Mazda series and focus not on winning, but clean driving, which will lead to fast promotions to higher classes. And, don't worry: while half a field takes itself out, winning a race, or a podium is not all that hard to get. Just don't try too hard and wreck! If you do, NEVER quit a race as your ratings will be hugely penalized. Instead, go to the pits (pressing escape will get you a tow there, if driving is not possible), fix the car and rejoin the race.
Bottom line, focus on clean driving to get promotions vs winning. At this stage anyway.

iRACING BEYOND A ROOKIE

Longer term, say one is now Class C, B or even A, more choices open up regarding what series to run. Take a look at Results and see how many folks run the given series. Some are very popular. Some (older) are not. How many split? Test a new car and see how you like it. Check Schedule for tracks, race length, standing or rolling starts, etc.

If you decide on a Fixed set up series, you just focus on practice and learning a track, with brake bias being the only available adjustment. If Open set up series, you now have to adjust the car's set up. This can be tremendously time consuming and equally frustrating, especially if there are many "moving parts" involved. The easy and highly recommended solution here is not to waste one's time, but rather to join Virtual Racing School (VRS) as a competitive customer for $100 per year. This org is run by sim world Champions and other highly acclaimed pros. For each series and for each car (even Rookies!), every week, they offer 2 car set ups: race and safe. The latter is still top notch fast but a bit easier to drive. And in some circumstances it may actually be faster. In addition, they provide vids of their fastest lap, plus video tutorials of same. Basically teaching you how to best navigate a given track in a given car. They also offer full telemetry and online coaching if you so desire. Outstanding service and superb guys!

If you dont see a black horizonal line with various selections, press Home upper left. Then press Find Official Races after it appears below and Current Series to see which ones are for Rookies. Also download and save this season's Schedule PDF (last choice there) as it has more info on all series.

While Rookies are restricted to limited series and cars, one can purchase any content and TEST any car and track - anytime.

While it is fun to test different cars, they all handle differently and hence require much time devoted to practice, to become familiar and fast. Dont expect to be competitive without practice! Hence a lot of fast folks stick to one car, some of them driving the same car for many seasons, or even years. But, it all depends on personal goals (and talent).Two cars that are faster, yet resemble Camaro handling rather closely are Cadillac CTS-VR (Fanatec Global Challenge series) and Mercedes AMG GT3 (IMSA Championship series).

You can watch any race as a spectator, having many views available, even driving in anyone's cockpit. Press Find Official Races then Watch/Ghost...then select series and join any shown race. Great for checking how pole position starts a race, fast guys lines, etc. If you see several splits, the top one will be the highest iRating folks.

Enjoy and have fun!

Pix of a few rigs below. Mine is first. Just for visual reference. Note Alex Bowman rig (with Finn and Roscoe guarding it) uses Fanatec SportClub wheel base (same as mine), but has upgraded Heusinkveld pedals. Another rig has a Direct Drive technology wheel base. This is newest tech currently, but it is very pricey and complex to set up from what i understand. Just an fyi.

[m3bs]

Thanks for putting this together. I’ve pretty much decided that my next track car may be a simulator setup...

[apexit53]

Ive been on iracing for years and its a lot of fun and can be extremely frustrating.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by m3bs

Thanks for putting this together. I’ve pretty much decided that my next track car may be a simulator setup...

There's actually a lot of merit in this on many levels.
I still love tracking my SS, but iracing does provide an extremely realistic experience and on a world wide stage.
Nothing i could pursue otherwise. But, as racing in RL it can be frustrating at times (as another poster noted).
I had extremely bad luck with my wifi and wrecking with a few backmarkers and my rating plummeted last season even tho i started on pole each time. But, overall, it is a very rewarding experience and one that is actively persued by many top pros (and amateurs alike).

[foshjowler]

You definitely don't need to spend all that on things. I bought a PC off craigslist for $450 that runs most games at 1080p, 60+ FPS. Most racing games more like 90+ FPS. I've had a Logitech G920 for years, but bought it for less than $400. There are likely used options that will do well. Then I use a monitor and desk that I would have otherwise, as many other people will. Especially those that game. Before the monitor and PC, I used a $40 desk from Target and a TV. The chair can be one you have around the house. It'll be hard to get much cheaper than $1000 all in, depending on what you have already.

I personally don't do iRacing, but I'm not a big online gamer. I've had plenty of fun with RFactor 2, Automoobilista 2, Dirt Rally 2.0, and the F1 series. Before I had a PC, I played Forza Motorsport series since the first game. Probably have over 5k hours in the series.

Like any other hobby, it can go from moderate spending to wild, send you into massive debt spending.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by foshjowler

You definitely don't need to spend all that on things. I bought a PC off craigslist for $450 that runs most games at 1080p, 60+ FPS. Most racing games more like 90+ FPS. I've had a Logitech G920 for years, but bought it for less than $400. There are likely used options that will do well. Then I use a monitor and desk that I would have otherwise, as many other people will. Especially those that game. Before the monitor and PC, I used a $40 desk from Target and a TV. The chair can be one you have around the house. It'll be hard to get much cheaper than $1000 all in, depending on what you have already.

I personally don't do iRacing, but I'm not a big online gamer. I've had plenty of fun with RFactor 2, Automoobilista 2, Dirt Rally 2.0, and the F1 series. Before I had a PC, I played Forza Motorsport series since the first game. Probably have over 5k hours in the series.

Like any other hobby, it can go from moderate spending to wild, send you into massive debt spending.

Agree. My first set was a simple Logitech clamped to a table with a spare TV and an office chair. I ran it on my work laptop Not sure this would work currently tho, given advances in graphics etc. It also impacts overall experience if you have to dial back most of the graphics and functions available - only to keep FPS in a half decent range.

Imo the difference between spending 1k for a very basic set up vs 3k for a very good set up is WELL worth it. Assuming one can afford the 2k difference of course.

Cheers!

[foshjowler]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Agree. My first set was a simple Logitech clamped to a table with a spare TV and an office chair. I ran it on my work laptop Not sure this would work currently tho, given advances in graphics etc. It also impacts overall experience if you have to dial back most of the graphics and functions available - only to keep FPS in a half decent range.

Imo the difference between spending 1k for a very basic set up vs 3k for a very good set up is WELL worth it. Assuming one can afford the 2k difference of course.

Cheers!

I tried running Assetto Corsa on my work laptop. Didn't go so well. A computer with decent graphics capabilities is all but required for modern titles.

[That1guy_tim]

Sim is the way to go! I have yet to dive into I racing. I'm worried I'll dive deep down that rabbit hole and spend way too much money lol.

As of right now I have a basic ps4 setup homemade rig with PVC pipe and a G29 wheel

[m3bs]

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

Sim is the way to go! I have yet to dive into I racing. I'm worried I'll dive deep down that rabbit hole and spend way too much money lol.

I figure I can set up a really nice rig for what a couple of track weekends in the ZLE would cost....

[ZRacerLE]

Bump to a great thread. Thank you.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by ZRacerLE

Bump to a great thread. Thank you.

My pleasure!

PS to the other responses: yep, consumables are free on a sim lol

[Kmeleon]

I'd quote your message but it's a bit long to do that.

I'll argue a few points and give my 2 cents over the next few days (I've been on iracing for 12 years now).

PC: If running on a single screen, that can be done with a moderately equipped PC. If going to triple screens or a VR headset (which is what I use and it's pretty amazing) then the single most important aspect of the PC is the purchasing a fast single core CPU (there's some new discussion with the Ryzen 5k's out now but with Intel you want the x version of either 9th or 10th gen and OC that puppy over 5ghz. Next would be the GPU, again this all depends on how many screens or if using VR.

Wheels: For wheels I argue against the Fanatec route. Very expensive (pretty looking, but cheap parts) and with Fanatec it's not a question of if it will break but when. You mention "direct drive", this is absolutely the way to go anymore when you're spending Fanatec money. I bought my Simucube setup for $2k, you can now get a newer setup with the same reliability for around $1k plus a price of a wheel. And it's absolutely bullet proof, you're talking industrial grade servos. It does take a bit more to get it up and running but there are cheat sheets on the iracing forums and members that will get you up and running quickly.

I'm out of time for now, but I love iracing! Unfortunately I just don't have enough time to dedicate to it but I still love doing it. I'm on an endurance team and have completed multiple 24 hour races....we nearly won 24hr/LeMans in 2020 in our split. I got passed with about 10 minutes to go because we were just short on fuel and I had to save just to make it home. Ran out across the S?F line

TrackClub, what's your irating? I'm right around 4k, but I don't compete if official races at all anymore. I always hope to get back to it, just hasn't happened. I've been digging the C8R in testing though for the past couple weeks. I'll post a pic of my rig soon, I've been building it for 10 years and I've got about $10k in it at this point

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Kmeleon

I'd quote your message but it's a bit long to do that.

I'll argue a few points and give my 2 cents over the next few days (I've been on iracing for 12 years now).

PC: If running on a single screen, that can be done with a moderately equipped PC. If going to triple screens or a VR headset (which is what I use and it's pretty amazing) then the single most important aspect of the PC is the purchasing a fast single core CPU (there's some new discussion with the Ryzen 5k's out now but with Intel you want the x version of either 9th or 10th gen and OC that puppy over 5ghz. Next would be the GPU, again this all depends on how many screens or if using VR.

Wheels: For wheels I argue against the Fanatec route. Very expensive (pretty looking, but cheap parts) and with Fanatec it's not a question of if it will break but when. You mention "direct drive", this is absolutely the way to go anymore when you're spending Fanatec money. I bought my Simucube setup for $2k, you can now get a newer setup with the same reliability for around $1k plus a price of a wheel. And it's absolutely bullet proof, you're talking industrial grade servos. It does take a bit more to get it up and running but there are cheat sheets on the iracing forums and members that will get you up and running quickly.

I'm out of time for now, but I love iracing! Unfortunately I just don't have enough time to dedicate to it but I still love doing it. I'm on an endurance team and have completed multiple 24 hour races....we nearly won 24hr/LeMans in 2020 in our split. I got passed with about 10 minutes to go because we were just short on fuel and I had to save just to make it home. Ran out across the S?F line

TrackClub, what's your irating? I'm right around 4k, but I don't compete if official races at all anymore. I always hope to get back to it, just hasn't happened. I've been digging the C8R in testing though for the past couple weeks. I'll post a pic of my rig soon, I've been building it for 10 years and I've got about $10k in it at this point

I welcome anyone's input, but note this thread is for the benefit of sim novices in mind vs old hands

Just like I would not recommend a ZL1 1LE for a track rat novice, i would not recommend anyone spends over the minimum required to see if they like the hobby.
And if they get hooked, my choices will give them more than required to enjoy the sim very competitively for at least 4-5 yrs.

That's why i would not recommend a Direct Drive wheel base to anyone that hasnt tried a sim before. Number one, they are not really plug and play and if one has never tried a sim they don't know what a good wheel should feel like, secondly albeit they've come down in prices, they are still the MOST expensive choices. The cheapest Simucube is not really $1k
It is $1299, plus a mounting flange, plus a steering wheel adapter, making it a circa $1500 purchase. Plus a steering wheel and pedals. But, if somebody has a fat wallet and patience of hunting set ups on forums: why not!

I kinda scratched my head, when you called my choice of a $549 Fanatec wheel base choice "expensive", then revealed you got $10k in your rig

I also and completely disagree that Fanatec gear is "cheap parts". Ive had mine for 5 yrs, use it virtually daily (in winter only mind you) and have had zero issues. For the relatively little more $ it is worth every penny over whatever else is available in this price range (ie non Direct Drive tech).
I not only know sim world Champions that use Fanatec wheel bases (in one case 10 yrs old), but also many RL pro drivers use them (Indycar, Nascar, Imsa, etc).
But, i admit, anyone can get unlucky with any gear and get a dud.

Anyhow, I've been on iRacing for 9 yrs running now.
Have managed an ok resume, including 72 race wins, 90 poles, numerous overall TT series championships and 23 new TT world records in different cars. Like i said, i started on a most basic Logitech gear and that didnt prevent me from being competitive in my splits back then.

You could most certainly add value by giving some detailed specs and pix of your rig, which obviously seems very advanced. More info the better! Let's just not push a ZL1 1LE to a complete novice And let's remember that even some old track rats may still prefer an SS 1LE anyway

All the best and cheers!

[TrackClub]

Updated my OP as i forgot that one needs to download iRacing software...
Also, while i recommended a specific set up as the best middle of the road value, this is not to say, that the cheaper options should be automatically discounted as valid options to get into sim competition.

I am "sim" friends with a guy from Austria, whose rating is over 6300 (that's uber), with 1379 starts and 437 wins and many championships. He has recently upgraded his pedals to the same as mine, but his rig is a kitchen table, office chair and an ancient Fanatec Porsche wheel base, about 10 yrs old.

Cheers!