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Old 11-19-2022, 01:27 PM   #1
StanZL1
 
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Drives: 2022 Camaro ZL1
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Bose + powered sub suggestions?

Looking to DIY more bass to the Bose system. No competitions or sonic perfection. Not advertising. Just a bit more punch when the windows are down at 80mph at 3/4 system volume. Powered subwoofer only w/remote knob for bass control (if recommended) + Active Noise Cancellation delete/override. Remove the box if needed during road course track sessions.

Eyes on a single 10-12" sealed or ported for classic rock, metal, & hip hop.
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 (10" 300W RMS)
Pioneer TS-WX1010A (10" 150watts? RMS)
Pioneer TS-WX1210AM (12" 150W RMS)
Kicker 46HS10 (10" 180watts RMS)
JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 (10" 400W RMS) is nice, but a bit outside my budget.

I've read most of the threads.
Seeking feedback from those who have installed similar small-scale add ons.

First shop I went to immediately pitched the $1,100 JL Audio Stealthbox, + $600 Amp + AudioControl LC2i + 3hrs installation with Velcro strips.
I know I would be completely satisfied with JL, but its 2-3x more than my budget for a car I put under 5k miles a year on.

1. Was told I need to use the 400W capable JL Audio LOC22 or Audio Control LC2i for $100-$150 because T-tapping the factory Bose speakers will overpower the speaker level input of any amp or overpower any $25 Scosche/Kicker LOC. I get the idea. I once read GM Marketing claimed 900W Max on the 9 speaker Bose system... I guess the 50W RMS per channel is mathematically possible; but doubting that an amp GMPartsDirect.com sells for $310 is seriously rocking 450W RMS total. Anyone believe the JL or Audio Control sales pitch? Anyone turn up their Bose system so loud that you fried a Socshe/Kicker LOC or amp using speaker level inputs? I figure by tapping & keeping the rear deck speakers, they would still dissipate majority of the Bose amp power.

2. For those who went this factory-add-on route, are you happy with single sub @ 125W-150W range in the trunk, or wish you'd gone 300W RMS or higher?

3. If you road course track your car, are Velcro strips really enough to keep the box in place? Did you cover the entire box footprint in Velcro? Or remove the sub and cap the wires or pull power fuses.

4. Any noticeable difference directing the subs forward (into the back seat) or backwards?

5. Better to cut the ANC microphones at the factory amp, in the door, or buy a plug adapter from Amazon? Using Apple CarPlay to take a cellphone call already sucks - no one can hear me with the window up - I'm not worried about it getting worse.

6. Shop owner said Bose suppresses low frequencies at higher volumes. Explains why I want more bass in the first place. yet another reason why I don't believe I need a LC2i in needed. Are you constantly adjusting the remote sub volume to compensate, or set & forget like most systems?

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 11-19-2022, 04:50 PM   #2
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Why not go with a good DSP, an amp and a sub in ported a box? Velcro helps a lot so do ratchet straps. If you are only needing bass then you can get everything you want for under $1000 plus install. I listen to mostly metal, some rock and some blues. Bass is needed in all music IMO. It brings the fullness of sounds a music listen wants. I wouldn't go the powered route those setups are all overpriced.
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Old 11-20-2022, 11:53 PM   #3
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I'm interested in this exact scenario myself. More bass in the Bose system
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Old 11-21-2022, 04:21 PM   #4
StanZL1
 
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tarmelter - my budget is about $500 out the door and I'm installing. If I were doing a full build and all 6 channels, I with you. But $1000 and DSP feels like overkill for my little project. And thinking of quick connects for swapping between the Camaro and my winter beater.

I am interested what trunk tie downs you suggest for ratchet strap.

Reason for the LOC is the remote wire and a $15 insurance against blowing a $200-$400 amp/box. Scosche LOC90 is 80W RMS/channel compatible (which I'm confident the Bose doesn't output) and many customer reports of using it (and the lower LC2SL at 90W peak/channel) on Bose without issues.
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Old 11-22-2022, 12:12 PM   #5
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Just to add bass, get a line output converter, amp and sub/box.

No dsp needed. DSP is great if you are doing a full system.

Do not get a cheap converter the Audio Control stuff is great.

I would not trust just velcro strips for holding a box in place, especially if you do any track time. Easy enough to make a couple small straps to attach to the top of the enclosure and either secure them to the rear deck lid or place them so that they will catch something if the enclosure should happen to tip back under hard acceleration.

I do have a Audio Control LC7i that I am no longer using as I went the full DSP route. I would let it go for cheaper than you could likely buy the LC2i for. Like new with box and everything including a new knob. Hit me up if interested.
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Old 11-22-2022, 04:25 PM   #6
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Use a lc2i, get the sub thump harness so you don’t have to cut into the harness. Pick an amp and sub of your choice. The reason the jl stealth box is expensive is because they use their w6 driver in it and you need a lot of power to run it. You also have to cut the trunk liner to install it. I would get something like the alpine type s and a standard pre fab box and mount the amp to the back of it.
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Old 11-23-2022, 02:56 PM   #7
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Thanks for the feedback. Also talked to a couple more shops and got a variety of feedback.

1. Definitely going SubThumb 6G-BZ-ANC ANC delete.
2. Might go Subthumb 6G-BZT Bose T Harness; arguably no difference btwn tapping front door vs my original plan to tap the rear deck subs wires.
3. Definitely going with LOC for the remote turn-on wire. General consensus is no amp's sensing turn-on is worth a darn; too many risk of hums, on/off pops, or dead battery. Likely with remote knob for volume control. Most shops say the LC2i is overkill for a sub-only add-on.
4. I will probably keep debating 150-300W power needs until I actually buy one, install, and decide quickly if its enough, or return and go bigger.
Thanks all.
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Old 11-29-2022, 04:49 PM   #8
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Question

This looks like what I will need as well. I'm happy with the rest of the system, just needs a little more bass & I already have it. I pulled the amp & sub out of my 1994 Camaro when I traded it in for my 2020 2SS. The amp is a 1200W Hifonics Zeus (400W at 4 ohms), and the sub is a RE Audio 10" (4 ohms). Do I understand correctly that it will need to be "powered down" so it doesn't overpower the rest of the system? And that can be accomplished with the LoC-22 if I understand correctly?
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Last edited by DamonZ28; 11-30-2022 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Adding subscription
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Old 12-01-2022, 02:08 PM   #9
rcoe
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DamonZ28 View Post
This looks like what I will need as well. I'm happy with the rest of the system, just needs a little more bass & I already have it. I pulled the amp & sub out of my 1994 Camaro when I traded it in for my 2020 2SS. The amp is a 1200W Hifonics Zeus (400W at 4 ohms), and the sub is a RE Audio 10" (4 ohms). Do I understand correctly that it will need to be "powered down" so it doesn't overpower the rest of the system? And that can be accomplished with the LoC-22 if I understand correctly?

You will match the outputs on the Loc to the inputs on the amp, then use the gains to match the sub to the rest of the speakers.
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Old 12-02-2022, 05:19 AM   #10
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Velcro strap weren't strong enough for me with launches. I bought a big pack of paracord and made 3 bungies to wrap around and clip onto seat frame. Has never moved, even with zl1 launches. Cost under $10 too. I use my lc2 to convert the passenger door panel speaker wires to rca jacks which send signal to amp. Gotta disconnect or bypass your anc mics in your doors. Also, I believe lc2 will prevent auto volume.
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Old 12-02-2022, 11:16 AM   #11
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I'm going through all of the connections in my mind, to make sure I buy all of the proper wiring, fuses, etc. If we use the JL Audio LoC-22 with the sub thump harness & front door taps, do we use the DC Offset Sensing setting, or the Signal Sensing setting for the Turn On Mode? Also, do I need to run any wires into the LOC, or between the LOC & amp, for the remote turn-on?
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RE Audio RFX10D4 10" Sub / Hand-made sub enclosure / Hifonics Zeus ZRX1200.1D amp / JL Audio LoC-22 line output converter / Sub Thump Plug N Play T-Harness With ANC Defeat Harness Kit

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Last edited by DamonZ28; 12-02-2022 at 11:49 AM.
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