[D.O.M.D1]

i plan on replacing the rear link rods (LT/RS style to SS style), i have a bigger question, do i need an alignment after i install the components on to the car and also do i need to do a torque on the lift and final torque (on the ground) as well

[Vtor_ZL1]

If there is cam bolts on there - YES.

[D.O.M.D1]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

If there is cam bolts on there - YES.

thanks bro

but do i need to do a final torque once the car is on the ground

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by D.O.M.D1

but do i need to do a final torque once the car is on the ground

If those links use a bonded rubber bushing, then yes you should wait to do the final torque until the car is at loaded static ride height. If the joints are some kind of ball joint that allows the inner metal sleeve to spin inside the bushing/joint, then you don't need to do that. I'm not sure on these links and I can't tell for sure from the picture, but you can check it out yourself. Bolt one end of the link up and tighten the bolt and see if you can rotate the link around that bolt without the arm springing back into its original position.

[D.O.M.D1]

Originally Posted by Msquared

If those links use a bonded rubber bushing, then yes you should wait to do the final torque until the car is at loaded static ride height. If the joints are some kind of ball joint that allows the inner metal sleeve to spin inside the bushing/joint, then you don't need to do that. I'm not sure on these links and I can't tell for sure from the picture, but you can check it out yourself. Bolt one end of the link up and tighten the bolt and see if you can rotate the link around that bolt without the arm springing back into its original position.

hey Msquared, i just checked the joints/bushing sleeves and they do not rotate, so that means i need to do a final torque once the vehicle is in the ground and when it at the static ride height, and i need to speak to the mechanic if he touches suspension (it can be a fickle beast) in any way, shape or form, keep in mind im changing the RS/LT (solid bushings) link rods to the SS link rods (pillow ball bushings) for a better ride.

thanks for the info

[Msquared]

If the links you're using have pillow ball joints, then they should allow free rotation about their bolt axis. Check the video below to see a good example. If so, that would mean you don't have to worry about ride height when tightening the bolt. The OE joints are often really stiff when brand new, so they may just not be easy to rotate yet, but you should be able to rotate them if you bolt them in (or put the inner sleeve in a vice, like in the video) and use the link's leverage to rotate them.

Video

[D.O.M.D1]

Originally Posted by Msquared

If the links you're using have pillow ball joints, then they should allow free rotation about their bolt axis. Check the video below to see a good example. If so, that would mean you don't have to worry about ride height when tightening the bolt. The OE joints are often really stiff when brand new, so they may just not be easy to rotate yet, but you should be able to rotate them if you bolt them in (or put the inner sleeve in a vice, like in the video) and use the link's leverage to rotate them.

Video

thanks, Msquared for the video, i got the idea from Mishimoto on one of their project cars that they have

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by D.O.M.D1

thanks, Msquared for the video, i got the idea from Mishimoto on one of their project cars that they have

Gotcha. Yeah, you don't need to wait to put the car at final ride height before tightening those bolts for the pillow ball toe links. The inner sleeve (and ball) can rotate inside the outer sleeve freely, so it won't cause any bind to tighten it while the suspension is still at full droop.

[D.O.M.D1]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Gotcha. Yeah, you don't need to wait to put the car at final ride height before tightening those bolts for the pillow ball toe links. The inner sleeve (and ball) can rotate inside the outer sleeve freely, so it won't cause any bind to tighten it while the suspension is still at full droop.

ok, i just looked up the BMR toe rod instructions (its different on how they do it), if i do that, I'm going to go crazy, i may need to buy new Torque
to Yield bolts i think for the inner part (to the subframe/cradle), but it should work itself out, I don't know if i should follow BMRs (its creditable information) lead or everything should work out, i mean the car is going to be for casual street use (and some runs in mexico) and not for track or autocross usage

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/TR007.pdf

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by D.O.M.D1

ok, i just looked up the BMR toe rod instructions (its different on how they do it), if i do that, I'm going to go crazy, i may need to buy new Torque
to Yield bolts i think for the inner part (to the subframe/cradle), but it should work itself out, I don't know if i should follow BMRs (its creditable information) lead or everything should work out, i mean the car is going to be for casual street use (and some runs in mexico) and not for track or autocross usage

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/TR007.pdf

You might be conflating their toe adjustment instructions in Step 8 with installation instructions. They aren't the same thing: their rod-ended toe links get rid of the factory eccentric toe adjuster and instead you rotate the link tube on the two rod ends to lengthen or shorten the link. Step 8 is how you lengthen or shorten the BMR toe link to adjust toe, since you've eliminated the factory eccentric adjuster. Ignore that step and all mention of the "lockout washers." Once you do that, their instructions amount to:

1. Jack car up and remove wheels.
2. Unbolt old toe link.
3. Bolt on new toe link and torque bolts to spec.
4. Reinstall wheels and lower car down off of jack.

In your case, it's truly that simple. I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over the TTY bolts. If you can't get them in time, just reuse the ones you have. BMR even says that's what they did.

[D.O.M.D1]

Originally Posted by Msquared

You might be conflating their toe adjustment instructions in Step 8 with installation instructions. They aren't the same thing: their rod-ended toe links get rid of the factory eccentric toe adjuster and instead you rotate the link tube on the two rod ends to lengthen or shorten the link. Step 8 is how you lengthen or shorten the BMR toe link to adjust toe, since you've eliminated the factory eccentric adjuster. Ignore that step and all mention of the "lockout washers." Once you do that, their instructions amount to:

1. Jack car up and remove wheels.
2. Unbolt old toe link.
3. Bolt on new toe link and torque bolts to spec.
4. Reinstall wheels and lower car down off of jack.

In your case, it's truly that simple. I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over the TTY bolts. If you can't get them in time, just reuse the ones you have. BMR even says that's what they did.

ok, thanks i need to look into it some more, I have some time before I get my car (and a 1,500-mile break-in period) and I need to ask my mechanic or a shop that specializes in suspension

thanks for your help

[D.O.M.D1]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

If there is cam bolts on there - YES.

thanks bro

[D.O.M.D1]

i think these are the bolts/hardware I'm referring to

M12x1.75x135 Rear Suspension Link Inner Bolt - GM (11611276)
M12x1.75x80.9 Multi-Purpose Bolt - GM (11609598)

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by D.O.M.D1

i think these are the bolts/ hardware im referring to

M12x1.75x135 Rear Suspension Link Inner Bolt - GM (11611276)
M12x1.75x80.9 Multi-Purpose Bolt - GM (11609598)

Yes, you are keeping the stock eccentric toe adjustment (the inner bolt), and therefore you should get the rear toe reset when you replace these links. All other alignment parameters will stay the same, so it's just the rear toe that needs to done.