[shinysun]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

The JMS adapter wired into the 2V signal on mine. I thought it was 0-5v, but checking it I only got around 2 at wot. Maybe there’s another wire with a different signal? Wouldn’t think so but not sure.

(I don’t have smoothboost, I just checked the voltage at the JMS when I set it up)

Yap, there are 2 signals on pedal wires.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by shinysun

You wired to the wrong one. I had the same issue, but it was my fault.

Ok, which wire did you use @shinysun?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

The JMS adapter wired into the 2V signal on mine. I thought it was 0-5v, but checking it I only got around 2 at wot. Maybe there’s another wire with a different signal? Wouldn’t think so but not sure.

(I don’t have smoothboost, I just checked the voltage at the JMS when I set it up)

Ok, so my using the JMS t-harness didn’t help the situation…

[Chrome383Z]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Ok, so my using the JMS t-harness didn’t help the situation…

Wonder why there’s two different signals. Be interesting to know. Wish I could help on grabbing the right one. I don’t know.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

Wonder why there’s two different signals. Be interesting to know. Wish I could help on grabbing the right one. I don’t know.

I think I need to grab pin 5 off the pedal sensor. My shop is good at wiring, so I'm bringing the car in Friday morning to get that squared away and I'll report back.

[shinysun]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Ok, which wire did you use @shinysun?

I am not sure at this moment. You better use a voltage tester.
I think I used the oppsite side of wire. for example , if you are using #2 pin now and it is 0~2V, the correct wire would be #4 in 5 pins.


I am also using JMS booster, and it is wiring to 0~2V wire.

I believe it is for the safty reason to have the 2 different voltage wires.
ECU monitoring the both and if there are some discrepency, the code will show up.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by shinysun

I am not sure at this moment. You better use a voltage tester.
I think I used the oppsite side of wire. for example , if you are using #2 pin now and it is 0~2V, the correct wire would be #4 in 5 pins.


I am also using JMS booster, and it is wiring to 0~2V wire.

I believe it is for the safty reason to have the 2 different voltage wires.
ECU monitoring the both and if there are some discrepency, the code will show up.

I’m pretty sure I have to use pin #5 (think I’m on pin #2 now) and will confirm tomorrow morning. It makes sense why GM had 2 signals though…!

[cjperformance]

Anyone try this on a centri? Was thinking about putting on a smaller pulley to build more boost at lower rpm with the procharger, but limit it at higher rpms to keep the engine safe.

I dont really NEED this... just bored right now and want to play with something.

[ZO6Ted]

Pretty sure ECS did this exact thing many years ago iirc correctly. They said it works.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by ZO6Ted

Pretty sure ECS did this exact thing many years ago iirc correctly. They said it works.

Smoothboost makes a centri boost controller for around $1K. This thread is how I learned about it. I might mess around with that sometime. I mean... that is the exact purpose of the kit... just... priorities.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Anyone try this on a centri? Was thinking about putting on a smaller pulley to build more boost at lower rpm with the procharger, but limit it at higher rpms to keep the engine safe.

I dont really NEED this... just bored right now and want to play with something.

Guys have put a wastegate onto a centrifugal setup (charge tube makes it like a turbo system), and then you can use a boost controller. However, you should keep in mind that if you overspin the blower relative to your top rpm desired boost level, then you'd be heating the air up a little more than needed, as far as I'm concerned. My opinion, it's not worth the bother for your car. The low end on these cars does not last long with a 4.56 first gear, so the low-end torque difference of a centri from a pd/roots style is nowhere near as big a deal in the 1/4 mile as some try to portray. I learned that lesson first hand, as my base Paxton centrifugal blower with stock torque converter ran a much quicker 60 foot (1.63) than the 1.8 some say a centri would do. You've already added the stall converter to yours, so I am expecting you to easily get 1.5 short times on DRs while still using the base pulley.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Guys have put a wastegate onto a centrifugal setup (charge tube makes it like a turbo system), and then you can use a boost controller. However, you should keep in mind that if you overspin the blower relative to your top rpm desired boost level, then you'd be heating the air up a little more than needed, as far as I'm concerned. My opinion, it's not worth the bother for your car. The low end on these cars does not last long with a 4.56 first gear, so the low-end torque difference of a centri from a pd/roots style is nowhere near as big a deal in the 1/4 mile as some try to portray. I learned that lesson first hand, as my base Paxton centrifugal blower with stock torque converter ran a much quicker 60 foot (1.63) than the 1.8 some say a centri would do. You've already added the stall converter to yours, so I am expecting you to easily get 1.5 short times on DRs while still using the base pulley.

Good info. I do intend to get at least a couple solid baseline passes on the DRs (on the way) before I do any more changes. Otherwise... wont know if it does any good!

[Joshinator99]

So, just to confirm that you do indeed need wire #5 to get 4.0+ volts needed to fully extend the actuator. And the final result is PERFECT! Boost comes on much more smoothly and the tires are happier for it. Driveability is definitely better. Around town you can turn the dial way down, end up with just a few pounds of boost and still have more power than most cars on the road. And with the Kong-ported Whipple, boost is up from 14.7 to 15.9 at full kill! Looking forward to getting to back on the dyno and see where I ended up.

[shinysun]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

So, just to confirm that you do indeed need wire #5 to get 4.0+ volts needed to fully extend the actuator. And the final result is PERFECT! Boost comes on much more smoothly and the tires are happier for it. Driveability is definitely better. Around town you can turn the dial way down, end up with just a few pounds of boost and still have more power than most cars on the road. And with the Kong-ported Whipple, boost is up from 14.7 to 15.9 at full kill! Looking forward to getting to back on the dyno and see where I ended up.

Congratulations!