[Eric SS]

I've been looking at a few pretty good YouTube videos from Phastek on installing lowering springs and in the rear they only mention loosening the trailing arm, lower control arm, and whatever the lower front arm is called. That leaves a couple of items (the upper control arm and toe rod) that don't need to be loosened to have to install the springs. Did you loosen these anyway when clocking the bushings or is it only the items the videos tell you to losten?

I have everything out and the car up in stands an am just waiting for the springs to arrive on Tuesday to install. Thanks.

As a side note, on my car it was impossible to remove the lower control arm bolt on both sides without mangling the sheath on ABS sensor...

[LSmith353]

If they are not loosened during disassembly, then there is no need to re-clock them. They should still be "clocked" because their position relative to ride height does not change. Only components on the lower side will be re-oriented.

[BradfordCamaro]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I've been looking at a few pretty good YouTube videos from Phastek on installing lowering springs and in the rear they only mention loosening the trailing arm, lower control arm, and whatever the lower front arm is called. That leaves a couple of items (the upper control arm and toe rod) that don't need to be loosened to have to install the springs. Did you loosen these anyway when clocking the bushings or is it only the items the videos tell you to losten?

I have everything out and the car up in stands an am just waiting for the springs to arrive on Tuesday to install. Thanks.

As a side note, on my car it was impossible to remove the lower control arm bolt on both sides without mangling the sheath on ABS sensor...

I think that is the Parking brake cable you are talking about.
Mine got a little scrapped up as well.

It is the rubber bushings that you need to be aware of.
Make sure that the suspension is loaded before you torque everything up.
Don't have the wheels hanging free when you torque. Use a jack to lift the wheels & suspension up before you torque.
My issue was not torquing to spec. Lying on the garage floor makes it hard to hit the 80+ft/lbs. My lower shock bolt was loose and I had a clunking noise because of it.

[irmb]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

As a side note, on my car it was impossible to remove the lower control arm bolt on both sides without mangling the sheath on ABS sensor...

Yah, the Phastek video makes that look easy to get out of the way. It's not. Hopefully you put it back in reversed so next time is easier.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by LSmith353

If they are not loosened during disassembly, then there is no need to re-clock them. They should still be "clocked" because their position relative to ride height does not change. Only components on the lower side will be re-oriented.

Ok thanks. I went ahead and loosened everything up just in case.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by BradfordCamaro

I think that is the Parking brake cable you are talking about.
Mine got a little scrapped up as well.

It is the rubber bushings that you need to be aware of.
Make sure that the suspension is loaded before you torque everything up.
Don't have the wheels hanging free when you torque. Use a jack to lift the wheels & suspension up before you torque.
My issue was not torquing to spec. Lying on the garage floor makes it hard to hit the 80+ft/lbs. My lower shock bolt was loose and I had a clunking noise because of it.

Yeah, now that you mention it it is the parking brake. I'll defiiitly have the suspension loaded and the jack under the brake was the plan

Are all the suspension components 80 ft/lbs back there?

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by irmb

Yah, the Phastek video makes that look easy to get out of the way. It's not. Hopefully you put it back in reversed so next time is easier.

The springs don't arrive until Tuesday but the plan is to definitely put those bolts in the other way!

[JDaniels609]

Instead of starting a new one guess I’ll try and bring this back from the dead. Along with absolutely shredding my ebrake cable I’m also curious if I need to clock the bushings on the upper control arms and toe arms… can anyone help me out? Part of the way through installing bmr springs

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by JDaniels609

Instead of starting a new one guess I’ll try and bring this back from the dead. Along with absolutely shredding my ebrake cable I’m also curious if I need to clock the bushings on the upper control arms and toe arms… can anyone help me out? Part of the way through installing bmr springs

The toe link on V8 cars uses a pillow ball bushing and should not need to be "reclocked." On V6 and L4 cars it's rubber and should be reclocked. I think the upper lateral link uses rubber bushings, but I'm not positive. If so, it should also be reclocked.

In response to post #2, the reason you would want to reclock all these rubber bushings is that (presumably) the new springs are lower and therefore the rubber would be torsion at static ride height if you skip this step. If the car doesn't change ride height and you didn't loosen the bolts, then you would not need to reclock the bushings during reassembly.