[clg82]

All great info in here guys I appreciate it. Sorry it took long for me respond as I've been on work travel all weekend. As Radz has eluded too I'm trying to "fly under the radar" so to speak here in Cali. With that being said, some of the research I've done here and elsewhere has given me the impression that running it occasionally shouldn't be an issue, which is what I do. Along the lines of "octane", IF say I were to move to a place with 93 premium as opposed to 91, would that require an updated tune?

[radz28]

It depends on how much timing you're tune has. If you're tuned to run on the booster (which I think I remember you were), then your timing is probably higher, to take advantage of the booster, than 91 would allow.

I would ask your tuner what he says. I imagine, if he's got you into the upper teens, you MIGHT be able to run on 93 without any tune changes. If he's got you 2-3-degrees more - you MIGHT be stuck running at least a little booster. The best place to establish this is with what he says. There are additional tables that have influence over SPARK, too, so if those are still in-play/enabled, that can change the ultimate timing under certain conditions, too.

Running about 5* of cam retard at WOT, on a target blend of 93-94 octane (that would either be blending a whole can of orange RaceGas, or abou .17oz/gallon of Professional Boostane), I could see up to almost 22* of SPARK from around 5800-6800 (boost was between 15-16psi). He was happier around 21*, with almost zero KNOCK, but temperature-dependent - I couldn't see more than about 22 (I wouldn't recommend running that much all the time - just saying that was about max). FWIW - I have some SPARK modifiers turned off (e.g. HUMMIDITY/VCT), since they only add timing, and or my VVT is also altered.

Actually - I'd also ask about KNOCK SENSOR detuning, if any, too. Mine were slightly detuned by someone who helped me a few years ago, but it seems that's a pretty popular thing to do by some, from what I've read. If they're detuned, I'd take that into account, too.

It's just best to start with asking him. Or - if you have a copy of the tune, if you share it, it can be looked at, too.

[JSH]

At the risk of seeming redundant, higher octane is worthless unless you tune the ECM for it, e.g., add spark timing advance. The difference between 91 and 93 is negligible and does not justify a tune IMO

[radz28]

Originally Posted by JSH

At the risk of seeming redundant, higher octane is worthless unless you tune the ECM for it, e.g., add spark timing advance. The difference between 91 and 93 is negligible and does not justify a tune IMO

If I recall - after the 2650, his car was dyno'd with the Maggie tune, then a custom tune, and then an octane booster tune, which was like 30-40-more HP.

Or - that was someone else... My point is - I believe his car WAS tuned for booster, or at least higher than 91

[ShockingZ]

The only ill effects are the orange color it changes your plugs and o2 sensors to. And sometimes the exhaust tips. Aside from that, there are no issues mechanically with running it full time. Many do, and I have never in a decade seen a post or heard from anyone of octane booster being the cause of a failure. The orange plugs scare people, but they are totally fine. And honestly plugs are cheap and easy to swap, so if it bothers you then just change them once a year. I ran octanium in my 21 Zl1 and it was awesome for keeping the knock away from 93. I ran a full bottle per full tank of 93. I would get down to zero on the gas gauge, then go to the station. Dump in the whole bottle first, then top off with 93. That gets it mixed up nice and within a few minutes it was good to go.

[ShockingZ]

Originally Posted by JSH

At the risk of seeming redundant, higher octane is worthless unless you tune the ECM for it, e.g., add spark timing advance. The difference between 91 and 93 is negligible and does not justify a tune IMO

This is dopey talk here folks. It has merit if you are tuned and never see any knock. But in the real world where DA and climate changes and cars that might not see knock on the dyno, might see it on the street from time to time, the octane booster will help you keep the timing you have and make the car run more consistent. So if on the street you are pulling a few degrees from whatever scenario, then yes you will be much better off with the octane booster and making more power than you would if the car was pulling a bunch of timing.

Octane booster should never be used to make more power, just to keep the power you have.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by radz28

If I recall - after the 2650, his car was dyno'd with the Maggie tune, then a custom tune, and then an octane booster tune, which was like 30-40-more HP.

Or - that was someone else... My point is - I believe his car WAS tuned for booster, or at least higher than 91

Correct. I have a tune for regular crap 91 and also for the octane booster.

[18.2SS.1LE]

I've been mixing 4 oz of Boostane Professional per fill up for over a year now with no issues. How much more timing is in your tune for octane booster than the 91 tune?

[clg82]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

I've been mixing 4 oz of Boostane Professional per fill up for over a year now with no issues. How much more timing is in your tune for octane booster than the 91 tune?

No idea, lol, although I should.....

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ShockingZ

Octane booster should never be used to make more power, just to keep the power you have.

My post is about gasoline only not octane booster

[ShockingZ]

Originally Posted by JSH

My post is about gasoline only not octane booster

Still if you add some 100 or better to a 93 tank and you are tuned on 93, you are going to get some level of knock protection over just your standard 93. And you would keep the timing you have rather than losing it from a bit of knock. If I were 93 tuned and heading to the track, I'd always want a splash of 100+ or octane booster to help keep the car consistent.