[JJ2218]

I installed one today along with a KN drop in, and immediately threw two codes. I wiggled the MAF connector and unplugged/reseated it ( it appeared fine). I also checked the PCV hose, but I can't tell if it is making a good seal. After disconnecting the battery, codes went away. How smart is this ECU, and will it throw a code if its lean? Does this ECU go open loop at WOT?

Has anyone had long term experience with this intake tube?
thanks

[Gutling]

I have had it since its release, no codes or issues (15xxx miles). A lot of people have had issues with diff camaro intakes if they are not tight, they seem to be real sensitive to outside air. I would say take it off, wipe down where it sits and put it back on making sure clamps are tight and tube is seated good, see if that makes any difference.

You said k&n drop in, is it a oiled or dry filter? I am running a dry filter, i dont know how ours like the oiled filters I never used one, if yours is oiled maybe someone can chime in that has been running one if thye had any issues because the filter?

[wookwook]

How smart is this ECU ? - crazy smart. There is much to learn about this ecu and forget about everything you thought you knew about traditional tuning for this car. Youtube demos out there are based on Gen 3 or 4. useless.

and will it throw a code if its lean ? - it codes if the maf readings are inconsistent with the map table. Our car uses a dual strategy and it will fail over to speed density (MAP) tables based on volumetric tables and still run fine. ask me how I know. You have to make sure everything is tight of course. The error is because the air flow across the MAF sensor is mis-calibrated (out of range) and sending an implausible reading to the ECU. enter speed denisty, and CEL.

Does this ECU go open loop at WOT? Yes somewhere around 70 percent engine load. And somewhere in everyday driving, and downshifting and upshifting, and places in between.

The ecu is operates with very serious logic systems using gates, thresholds, dependency systems, attack and decay rates in its processing. It ain't your fathers oldsmobile. BUT- on the up side, you can tell it to increase the torque my editing a table basically and it will comply, in a nutshell. But don't do that without some professional help.


Basically - Your comparing a (Gen6) Boeing 737 MAX-8 to a (Gen3) Cesna.

As always- open to correction and constructive comments.
W/

[cooper1965]

The ecu is smart enough to know that you unplugged the MAF. I can do nothing but unplug it, and plug it right back in, and 70% of the time it will set a code. Earlier years don't seem to be as sensitive. As far as your pcv, as long as you hear an audible "click", it should be tight. Your tube/filter combination should be one of the most trouble free set ups out there. If codes come back, I would check your clamps, they need to be TIGHT. Way tighter than you would think. The car will throw a code for lean, but it has to be pretty bad to do it, as it can compensate quite a bit. Open loop is a complex strategy on this PCM as wookwook has alluded too.

[JJ2218]

Thanks, this is good to know. I took it out again last night and did some 0-60 runs. No codes, but I could only manage a 5.7. I'm not sure if I feel any more power, but it definitely is not slower. The sound is great though and thats one of the main reasons I got it.

[Start The Machine]

I've had zero issues with that setup. Like previous posts state: The ECU is incredibly sensitive to anything and everything. You need to make sure all of the clams are stupid tight. If you don't already have one, get a cheap OBD2 Bluetooth code reader and download the Torque App on your phone to scan and clear any codes instead of going through all the trouble unplugging your battery and ****ing up all of your settings. Clearing them once with the code reader should permanently take care of it.

[wookwook]

Originally Posted by JJ2218

Thanks, this is good to know. I took it out again last night and did some 0-60 runs. No codes, but I could only manage a 5.7. I'm not sure if I feel any more power, but it definitely is not slower. The sound is great though and thats one of the main reasons I got it.

like sounds? get the jacfab valve.
The jacfab valve will code at each peak of engine load until you max it out then it will settle down, aka self adjust. its a turbo code.






"Clearing them once with the code reader should permanently take care of it" .. some codes are permanent until you remove the offending issue. The ecu will auto correct once that's done. keep an eye on pending and permanent codes. andriod car scan app and odblink MX bluetooth has a lot of looks into vital stats and resets for free.

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by wookwook

like sounds? get the jacfab valve.
The jacfab valve will code at each peak of engine load until you max it out then it will settle down, aka self adjust. its a turbo code.



"Clearing them once with the code reader should permanently take care of it" .. some codes are permanent until you remove the offending issue. The ecu will auto correct once that's done. keep an eye on pending and permanent codes. andriod car scan app and odblink MX bluetooth has a lot of looks into vital stats and resets for free.

The code he is experiencing is clear once and usually doesn't come back. I don't think that it needs to be permanently deleted, just cleared. Some codes do indeed need to be deleted i.e. Catless D.P., Boostalator, etc..

[wookwook]

Ive set off dozens of codes so i have some insight. running stock i never coded the DP. The BOL only ever lit when i went in to some extreme transient that i never captured in logs, like WOT being one type. After a few weeks of driving like you stole it and clearing about 4 or 5 times it doesn't come back. unless you change the characteristic on the adaptive tables in the ecu, ie racechip on racechip off. then the BOL will need to find its center again. that said i think your talking about cumulative benefit in a tune and somewhere the need to shut the cel started to pop up here and is being repeated down the line. I checked and no codes are hushed on mine. no need. The point i am trying to make is - at this stage in the game for me - if it needs to be shut off in HPT Diags/DTC, its coming off.

[JJ2218]

Im new to the whole BT scaner thing. So I can permanentely delete a code, as in it will never come back? Is that safe? Which OBD app would you recommend for ios?

The BOL has caught my attention, but I dont want to set codes all the time. Does it really sound that much better than stock?

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by JJ2218

Im new to the whole BT scaner thing. So I can permanentely delete a code, as in it will never come back? Is that safe? Which OBD app would you recommend for ios?

The BOL has caught my attention, but I dont want to set codes all the time. Does it really sound that much better than stock?

No, you can't permanently disable CEL's with the cheep BT scanner, only clear them out. You would need something like HP Tuner, EFI Live or in my case, I have the Trifecta tune software on my computer that has the option to clear or disable CEL's.

Depending on what the CEL code is, yes it's safe to disable it.

I like the $5.00 Torque Pro App

Yes, BOL is much louder than stock and sounds better depending on who you ask.

[wookwook]

definitely don't do anything your not comfortable with. There is so much info here that should help you decide how far you should go, and definitely on your own time line. Info is always evolving and we all have different objectives so spend time looking through the forums and learn a lot. Its easy for well intended conversations to go sideways because texting looses so much context. For the most part I've found that if you can get the actual (factual) data that people are willing to share that helps a lot. Trust but verify.

W/

[JJ2218]

Thanks again for the advice. I just got out of a fairly labor intensive project car and became so sick of wrenching for hours upon hours. I completed it, sold it, then bought this with a warranty. That's why so far the racechip is as far as I will go. At least this engine is lightweight if I ever had to replace it, but I am very much wanting to stay away that kind of work. Overall I do like this car, but I do miss the throttle response and linear power delivery of NA engines.

After driving around on the intake tube for a few days now, no more codes, and it feels a touch quicker.

[wookwook]

awesome. see you aren't such a noob after all. before long you should notice a peddle commander its truly plug and play, zero risk 10 minute install. it is a good way to take out that slack off the line. I think almost everyone has that.

keep us posted!
W/