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BeckyD @ James Martin Chevy


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Old 06-28-2018, 12:58 PM   #113
17CamaroZL1
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That looks about like mine
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:43 PM   #114
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That looks like mine did too. I still unscrewed mine and made sure the bypass was slammed shut. Between that, the RotoFab and X pipe/exhaust I think the car feels a little bit stronger in the mid range. And it certainly sounds better.
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Old 06-28-2018, 03:05 PM   #115
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I made the adjustment to mine a while back as well.

Mine was over a full turn after making contact. It backed it out until it left about a paper's width as well. I haven't farted around a bunch, but my boost gauge was onto the last tick before hitting 15(11.125lb) when I took it up to 110. Before It wouldn't only go to about half (7.5).

Could be a placebo, I don't know; the car definitely feels a bit more zippy.
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:55 PM   #116
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soooo no one has done full testing on this to see all the differences all the way in all the way out little off little pushing etc etc, no check engine lights or issues with moving the screw. what other parameters are changes with the boost?
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:14 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo8617 View Post
soooo no one has done full testing on this to see all the differences all the way in all the way out little off little pushing etc etc, no check engine lights or issues with moving the screw. what other parameters are changes with the boost?
I played with mine at the track with the lever starting slightly loaded in both a 5th gen and a 6th gen ZL1. Full loose, no measurable difference. If I load it more I can make both cars a little slower. An MPH or 2. I did not log on those runs, just compared slips. So my evidence is anecdotal.

It doesn't hurt to check it for too much pre-load. But no free lunch here as far as I was able to tell. A very experienced ZL1 tuner says there is nothing to gain here. Leave it alone. Much like a standard ZL1 Ported TB gains are minimal if at all. But if it feels good try it and let us know how it turns out.
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Old 10-09-2020, 08:35 AM   #118
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Bringing this back from the dead.

I searched & can’t find lt1z’s original thread.

I came across this perusing the HPT forums. Aside from the set screw he stated you should check the actual valve in the blower for seal, & if on a stock tune disconnect the line from the solenoid to bypass.

Curious what the current consensus on the valve & adjustment QC is now.
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Old 10-09-2020, 09:11 PM   #119
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So no one has any input about this?

I’m going to be yanking my lid this weekend to remove the silencer plate & will be checking seal & valve opening with a mighty vac to see what the correlation between manifold vacuum & valve opening is & checking my actuator adjustment.

I’ll get my new laptop set up so I can do some logs next week.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:07 AM   #120
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In fact that just reduce thé time to open thé throttle and there is less lost of power ... is it that ?
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Old 10-10-2020, 07:42 AM   #121
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In fact that just reduce thé time to open thé throttle and there is less lost of power ... is it that ?
From reading this thread & an older Camaro5 thread so far it seems there is a possibility for what could be described as a QC issue with Gen 5 & early Gen 6’s, but not much info since Dec./18.

In the blower is a bypass valve that during various loads opens to allow air to circumvent the rotors. This valve is controlled by an actuator that sits on the front of the blower. If the pre-load is set incorrectly it results in the valve not closing completely under heavy load.

The second issue that I gathered from lt1Z’s other comments around the web was some valves had misalignment so even when the actuator was adjusted properly the valve would not seal properly.

The “advertised” manifold pressure was supposed to be around 9psi. From what I have gathered if lt1z’s Findings were correct the blowers were actually pullied to run more pressure, & Chevy was utilizing the Computer to use the bypass to limit manifold pressure. That’s why he said with a stock tune you have to disconnect the line going to the valve. The downside to this is the blower is actually spinning fast enough to create more manifold pressure, but can’t. It then creates a flow loop from past the rotors to before the rotors. This would result in higher air temps.

This is purely conjecture at this point, but I’m still going to look into it.
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:08 AM   #122
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2013 ZL1

I just got my ZL1 - found a 2013 with 4800 miles on it. Can I make this adjustment on my ZL1? Will it harm the car?
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:07 AM   #123
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I just got my ZL1 - found a 2013 with 4800 miles on it. Can I make this adjustment on my ZL1? Will it harm the car?
Yes.

No.

The adjustment is different for gen 5’s.
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:13 AM   #124
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2013 ZL1

So is the adjustment the same as I have read on this thread for 5TH GEN?
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:56 AM   #125
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So is the adjustment the same as I have read on this thread for 5TH GEN?
I should have said the adjustment, from what I’ve read, is the same but more difficult due to its positioning.
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Old 10-23-2020, 10:42 AM   #126
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Interesting...... I'll wait until I've driven this few thousand before I mess with this....
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