[Vtor_ZL1]

Sold my last 2 cars with OE battery, 10 years and 5 years -- hope whatever GM stuffs under hood err trunk makes it just as long. For the most part, daily driven.

[matt fe2o3]

Originally Posted by flaps100

So I got it back, new Battery Installed, On the ride home, dash showed 14.5 Volts, then dropped to 14, 13.8, 13.7, now it seems to be staying around 13.7 volts, is that a good #.

Was surprised to see it changing so much.

Also I guess the battery is located kind of under the back seat, they seem to have messed up the carpet in the trunk up near where it meets the seat, is the battery under the seat ???

Flaps

13.7 is a good number. A 12 volt battery at full charge is about 12.7 so the idea that 14v or otherwise is good - just does not work with the math of how batteries work. In fact 13.7 at rest (like 12 hours after last start or engine kill) is pretty high. The functional voltage of the cells is like 2.1 thence times 6 cells = 12.7.

A lot of issues do come up from hot charging / tendering batteries with tenders that don't slow down. It's very bad to crank 13v + into an idle battery on a tender for prolonged periods. Moar is not always better.

A decent battery is a really simple and important component. Like a cheap hooker you can stuff loads of dollars or juice into it and it won't make it work any better. In fact it get's worse.

Check this out: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/arti...ry-basics.html

There is more to it. But remember 14v consistent will kill a battery.

[Gunkk]

When your gas tank is full, do you keep pumping more gas in? No, it would overflow.

Same thing with the battery.

[matt fe2o3]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

When your gas tank is full, do you keep pumping more gas in? No, it would overflow.

Same thing with the battery.

That's not far off.

I run an Aprilia dual sport v990 and a lot of the crowd insists that 14v charging mods for the r/r is important. All it really does is cook the batteries and the rectifiers. 13.4v is plenty and over 13.6v is really too hot IMHO.

I have a box of dead Yuasa batteries (like six of them). Never more than a year's service - and a Deka/Penn with over 5 years service. Good batteries, proper charging. MOAR is not better.

[flaps100]

Thanks for all the info and ideas. Its running great with the new battery and even though it was hot the day it failed, I got a descent amount of the garage cleaned up waiting for the tow truck :-)

Flaps

[matt fe2o3]

Originally Posted by flaps100

Thanks for all the info and ideas. Its running great with the new battery and even though it was hot the day it failed, I got a descent amount of the garage cleaned up waiting for the tow truck :-)

Flaps

Sorry I just noticed your were in Las Vegas. Batteries for cars in really hot climates tend to have limited lifespans.

My little brother in Tempe, AZ changes them every 2-3 years. Out here in SF Bay Area I do it every 5 years. A consumable.

[Gunkk]

Got a P2535 code (plus 1 another from the TCM) after a jump start. Reset the codes and all back to normal.

$16 code reader and free Torque App were choices well made.

Been driving keyless cars for 7 years, but still apparently I did something dumb. Email from onstar confirmed it: