[SoulCyphyr71]

Could anyone point me to where I could find information on the torque sequence and specs of the intake manifold (and throttle body, if there is one) for the LGX 3.6L engine? I've checked YouTube for an install guide and Googled, but I'm at a loss for the time being.

Thanks in advance for any help given.

[dgriff14]

The most I’ve found is the old LFX engine manifolds needed 18 ft lbs according to JacFab on his website. Not sure how different the LGX is but it’s probably a start, hope it helps lol

[SoulCyphyr71]

Yeah I saw that. However, this will be my first time under the hood, so to speak. And wanting to be exact lol. You'd think it must not be critical, as the manifold and throttle body came with no installation instructions.

[DIYguy]

Intake Manifold Bolt 25 N.m or 18 lb-ft per the factory repair manual.
And the throttle body bolts are 10 N.m or 89 in-lb.

[SoulCyphyr71]

Awesome! Thank you very much DIYguy for the information!

[DIYguy]

Glad to help.
I have had my manifold off a couple of times and it really isn't a big deal to do.
You should have no trouble with it.
Do be sure to apply a thin coating of RTV or sealer to the port seals.
They tend to leak air (mine were definitely leaking).
People say not to use silicone RTV on the intake because it could migrate into the intake valves and then into the converters, but a thin smear won't do that.
Also that was more in the days when there was fuel in the manifold (which can attack the silicone and swell it).
Not a problem on GDI engines of course.

[SoulCyphyr71]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

Glad to help.
I have had my manifold off a couple of times and it really isn't a big deal to do.
You should have no trouble with it.
Do be sure to apply a thin coating of RTV or sealer to the port seals.
They tend to leak air (mine were definitely leaking).
People say not to use silicone RTV on the intake because it could migrate into the intake valves and then into the converters, but a thin smear won't do that.
Also that was more in the days when there was fuel in the manifold (which can attack the silicone and swell it).
Not a problem on GDI engines of course.

Getting ready to swap out the throttle body and intake manifold. Will disconnecting the battery be recommended before the initial startup?

[DIYguy]

Almost certainly not necessary.
When I did mine I left the battery connected.
There is no power to anything that is affected by removing the throttle body or manifold when the ignition is off (or in the case of these cars, asleep).

Of course it may depend upon what you are replacing them with.
If you are putting on newer or different versions of the same parts, or the same parts after cleaning or something, then there is no reason to disconnect the battery for a reset.
If you are putting on something aftermarket, then you might want to disconnect the battery while you are working on it.
Then when you re-connect it later it should re-learn.

[SoulCyphyr71]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

Almost certainly not necessary.
When I did mine I left the battery connected.
There is no power to anything that is affected by removing the throttle body or manifold when the ignition is off (or in the case of these cars, asleep).

Of course it may depend upon what you are replacing them with.
If you are putting on newer or different versions of the same parts, or the same parts after cleaning or something, then there is no reason to disconnect the battery for a reset.
If you are putting on something aftermarket, then you might want to disconnect the battery while you are working on it.
Then when you re-connect it later it should re-learn.

Ok, I’m replacing the 72mm throttle body and stock intake manifold with an 80mm throttle body and ported intake manifold. However, I am also flashing the Overkill custom tune at the same time. So I’m assuming disconnecting the battery would be advised?

Thank you for the information.

[DIYguy]

In that case, it would probably be a good idea to disconnect the battery before doing all of that.
The ECU will most likely need to re-learn anyway, so there is nothing to lose by doing it.

The longest I have ever had mine disconnected was about 48 hours and when it was reconnected it took a few start-warmup-drive cycles to smooth out, but it did so eventually.

[SoulCyphyr71]

Finally got some free time to install the new throttle body and intake manifold. The install went fairly easily, until I attempted to reconnect the CAI to the new throttle body. The intake pipe is now pushed far enough forward (due to a 1/4" plate on the manifold where the new throttle body mounts to and the size of the throttle body itself) that the elbow now rests against the fan housing, almost but not touching the fan itself. I spent a good hour sizing up how to place the intake pipe without placing the pipe against the fan housing with no luck. Moving the pipe forward actually places the end inside the throttle body itself.

Anyone know of any other method of fixing this without cutting a half inch off the pipe itself to get this to work? I'm currently using the metal pipe K&N Typhoon CAI, which is listed as an acceptable CAI to use with an 80mm throttle body. I'll try to post a pic later as I'm at work.

[DIYguy]

Please post a photo or two when you get the chance.
If it were the stock intake tube 1/4" (or even 3/4") would be no problem, but with an aftermarket tube only a photo will tell the story.
Thanks.