[TJay74]

Originally Posted by Miami_1LE

wrong my friend. The amp is behind the passanger glove box.

Wrong my friend, the 1LE cars have no amp at all. This has been confirmed many times now.

[harrisrwe]

Originally Posted by IH8WNTR

Remote power/signal for the sub comes from the line output converter.

Is there any noticeable lag when the box gets the remote signal or is it immediate? I can guess that even a slight delay when a song comes on pissing me off eventually...

[IH8WNTR]

Originally Posted by harrisrwe

Is there any noticeable lag when the box gets the remote signal or is it immediate? I can guess that even a slight delay when a song comes on pissing me off eventually...

I haven’t noticed any lag, but I will pay closer attention the next time I go for a drive.

[Oramac2016]

How did you access the rear side speaker wires? Did you have to remove the panel in the back seat?

[bjbonentte]

I just wanted to bring this to the top. After 2 years are you still running this setup? How much sound are you getting out of it.

I am looking to just fill out the sound and want a small inexpensive stealthy solution.

[IH8WNTR]

Originally Posted by bjbonentte

I just wanted to bring this to the top. After 2 years are you still running this setup? How much sound are you getting out of it.

I am looking to just fill out the sound and want a small inexpensive stealthy solution.

I am still running the same set up. It works a lot better than the cost would have you believe. Not window rattling/obnoxious levels, but good for filling in the lack of bass.

[Msquared]

Some info on two questions in this thread: 1) location/existence of "amp" in the 1LE, and 2) the range of rear speaker frequency response. All of this info has been well documented in a big thread, Amp Location in 1LE?

1. Technically speaking, any speaker needs an amplifier of some sort to make sound. If there is nothing to generate the voltage and current required to drive speakers, you get no sound, and an amplifier is what does that. What we are really talking about is whether there is a separate amp in the trunk, vs an integrated amp (probably an op amp chip) in the tuner module. In the case of the 1LE, there is no separate amp in the car at all. The power comes directly from the tuner module, which is in the dash to the right of the glove box. The four channels of speaker-level signal come directly out of that module. Presumably this is a tip of the hat to track-oriented weight savings.
2. The rear side-panel speakers do not play full range. In the thread I cited, Ryephile says he verified this with frequency measurements. If he posted them somewhere, I don't think I've seen them. So I don't know if it's high-pass, low-pass, or some kind of more complicated curve. It's done in the tuner module and could very well be carried out in the digital domain, so who knows? Short knowing for a fact that you get full output down to 20hz, I would not tap the rear speaker signals for a sub (or anything else). I would tap the front speaker signals. You can physically cut and tap into the stock wiring to do this, or you can get a breakout harness from Gen5DIY.com like I did. It's really easy to run wires from the passenger footwell to the trunk: you just remove the passenger door sill and rear seat bottom.

[bjbonentte]

I talked to gen5diy and they make a break out harness for 16-18 non-bose non-amplified cars. I have a 19 so I ordered this thinking it would work. They called and looks like GM changed some wiring in 2019. They are making me a break out harness for my 19 and hope to get that in the next few weeks. I will let you guys know how it works. This will let me wire a high level input for a sub woofer and eventually add amp to front speakers if I want but at this time I don't feel that is really needed.

I added new speakers to the front and they work fine at the volume levels that I listen so I don't think I will add an amp to the fronts though I may eventually go to a higher quality componant speaker instead of a coaxial that I installed.


I am trying to do the least amount of modifications possible and want to retain full trunk space so I will be running a powered sub box 8'' or 10''. Something that can but tucked away.

I like how you put your kicker in the spare area but my concern was the vibrations from the speaker eventually damaging the modules down there.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by bjbonentte

I talked to gen5diy and they make a break out harness for 16-18 non-bose non-amplified cars. I have a 19 so I ordered this thinking it would work. They called and looks like GM changed some wiring in 2019. They are making me a break out harness for my 19 and hope to get that in the next few weeks. I will let you guys know how it works. This will let me wire a high level input for a sub woofer and eventually add amp to front speakers if I want but at this time I don't feel that is really needed.

I added new speakers to the front and they work fine at the volume levels that I listen so I don't think I will add an amp to the fronts though I may eventually go to a higher quality componant speaker instead of a coaxial that I installed.


I am trying to do the least amount of modifications possible and want to retain full trunk space so I will be running a powered sub box 8'' or 10''. Something that can but tucked away.

I like how you put your kicker in the spare area but my concern was the vibrations from the speaker eventually damaging the modules down there.

You really should (should have) read my thread that I linked in post 21 just above. I used the Gen5DIY breakout harness that you will be getting. AFAIK, I'm the one that asked them to make it in the first place. Yes, the car's entire communication protocol switched for the 2019 model year, so the connectors and any system integration modules you find are different than they were for the previous years.

I found that when I added the Kicker KEY180.4 amp to my four front speakers, the big difference wasn't volume but rather the integration of the drivers and imaging. This was because I went to active crossover and used the Kicker's equalizing and DSP functions. It's a whole different world, which is ridiculous considering this is a $200 amp. If you want a sub setup that's out of the way and doesn't get close to the modules on the floor of the trunk, you might consider one or two 8" subs in the rear deck where the Bose system has 6x9s. For example, if I were going to do that I'd probably try two Audiofrog GS8ND2 subs, which are designed for a free-air installation like that. Can't get more out of the way than that.