[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by cmfhsu

Toe in. Toe out in the back is going to give you some weird effects - "the rear end never grips back up", says my drifter friend.

I agree and I assume that’s what he meant to say. Very slight rear toe in allows for high speed stability and since the rear is somewhat limited in negative camber, it shouldn’t significantly impact wear.

The front toe - perhaps zero toe or toe out… depending on how sensitive you want your steering.

Ps, I believe it’s only the ZL1 1LE that is now recommended for changing oil to IIRC 15-50. The SS1!LE is good out the gate with 0-40.

[evanescent03]

Originally Posted by weemus

Evansvent03,
There is a thread but Stoptech sells grey silicone dust seals and they are actually part of the Centric caliper rebuild

Thanks for the pointer, I’ve been dragging my feet on the dust seals bc since I haven’t done them myself before and been too busy/lazy to take it in. I maybe got the impression this isn’t super important

I have my toe set as you described. I drive my car probably 50/50 although I haven’t logged track miles..

love this car. so solid.

[weemus]

Sorry toe in at the rear. Thinking about that + sign. I stick with the track alignment toe in for the rear and zeroed it out on the front.

[SloCal]

buy toe arms

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by SloCal

buy toe arms

Did you? SPL? BMR? Did you purchase because rear toe kept getting knocked outta whack or just as a precaution?

[weemus]

I did. SPL. Tired of having to pay to have the alignment redone.

Personally I think its the track curbing, but whatever the cause it annoying and can prematurely wear tires

[weemus]

For the OP once down the road and a few events under your belt with the car you may encounter a few minor issues that need addressed. I only change items when problems present themselves.

1. I went with Castrol SRF because the stock fluid is not track worthy. I also did brake lines at the same time because I much prefer a stiff pedal.

2. I did the GM track alignment

3. I added the Base Camaro brake cooling package (rotor shield and extended scoop). I also added C7 Z06 vented pistons for my brake calipers. This was because I am in the ~10% who track, brake aggressively, and happen to run at a track with minimal brake cooling sections (minimal fast and long straights). I boiled SRF at Carolina Motorsports Park with 1/2 thickness pads. I have run down to almost the backing plate at VIR no issues. So I had a problem that I didn't want to repeat and fixed it. Went back to CMP and drove overly hard on the brakes, no issues. Note: Most 1LEs don't experience this, its a rarity, as its mostly dependent on where you run.

4. I changed the alignment from GM Performance alignment to -2.6/2.7 F (Zero Toe) and -1.6 R (+.1 total toe). This evened out front tire wear and length of service. Trying to maximize consumable lifespan.

5. I have SPL toe rods as the rear toe can "walk" as the torque to yield bolt can slip due to design. It will cause bad tire wear and handling changes.

Otherwise stock. I plan on a few other minor things. But mostly spending $$$ on track time and consumables. Stock tires and brake pads are the cheapest as far as I know. I purchase tires/pads when on sale. Tire Rack for tires (check used locally and internet as you would be surprised what you can find) and Amazon for pads.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by weemus

I also added C7 Z06 vented pistons for my brake calipers.

What are vented pistons?

[weemus]

Brake caliper pistons with holes in the top . It reduces heat transfer by about 86 degrees per GM. The Z06 uses the same size pistons as our front calipers.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/324/32...91d42782_b.jpg

[cmfhsu]

@weemus - where did you buy them? Are there GM OE part numbers?

[N Camarolina]

@Weemus - more questions:

1) I'm curious about the rear toe alignment slip. Do you think it happens just as a function of hard cornering and/or accelerating out of corners while on track (I recorded 1.25 Gs on my PDR on several corners at CMP last month), or is it from hammering over the curbing?

2) How about individual contribution of the break cooling mods you've done. How much benefit do you think your getting from the base SS cooling scoops vs the vented pistons?

[weemus]

cmfhsu,
The pistons are available and come as a rebuild kit with inner seals only. The link above had the Centric aka "Stoptech" grey silicone dust boot. The vented pistons are $130 per side. Another alternative is titanium shields from KNS brakes. Cost is ~$100 and considerably easier. I chose the pistons for other reasons. Again I would not do/change anything unless you have issues that crop up. I only had issues because of the, 1 of 5 tracks I frequent, caused brake cooling issues.

Titanium shields:
https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-item..._Upgrade+Items

Vented Piston Discussion:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...ooling&page=11

[weemus]

Hey Neighbor N. Camarolina ever stop by VIR?

1. I am just speculating. I know many guys who track who don't seem to have the same issue so its not just the car and bolt design (that is a contributor) but also something I am doing. I notice that I am a more aggressive user of the curbing. I bent my from passenger rim at VIR cutting the curbing and put my head into the ceiling at Dominion catching the curbing wrong. Those things happened because I misjudged and heavily use curbing. I know guys who have had the same alignment for year(s).

2. This is the same issue. Very few people experience brake issues with good fluid on the 1LE. Its part driver and mostly tracks with minimal cooling sections. I did the following in order of easy to difficult:

A. Fluid (SRF because I am lazy and don't want to bleed between track days and its the best but also $ but after you factor in your time bleeding and topping off its on par)
B. Camaro SS brake cooling kit. I installed the shield immediately (like 15mins) and let them self clearance. Installed the rotor shield at a following pad change.
C. Vented pistons

It seems solved for me but the next step was titanium shields. I didn't test each mod individually at that track. It would have been nice but read #A (lazy).

Discussion on brake cooling:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=brake+cooling

SS Brake Ducts:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=brake+cooling

[N Camarolina]

@weemus.

Yes to VIR. Been there twice so far (both TNIA) driving my friend's Mustang, but now that I have the 1LE, I'll be there driving it at the end of this May for the full weekend.

Thanks for thoughts on the brakes and the curbing. I haven't been very aggressive on the brakes so far in either vehicle (Mustang wasn't mine, and in the 1LE my first event was CMP in April so was inching up to the cars limits). Having come very close to lateral G limits, one of my next things is to start taking the brake zones deeper. But I want to do it in such a way so as to leave something on the table in the event I find some pad fade (that way I'll still be able to make the corner) and become more comfortable with what level of abuse the pads will endure at a particular track. I'm already running SRF based on the posts on this thread.

Based on VIR's layout, I'm assuming the pads will be hottest at turns 2 and 3 given the lack of long straight following the hard breaking into turn 1.