[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by LesBaer

Not sure if this will help you but I have the Forza controller, which is basically the same thing. The car has to be set to stealth under NPP. Then I had to map the buttons on the remote and my homelink - one to open and the other to close. It only works if you have the car set in stealth though.

Here's a pic from Forza's install manual...it should be the same as yours:



I had mine put it when they installed my jammer and the guy didn't like the fuse taps, so he used something else. This from under my hood:

Yea the 3rd pic I posted is from a Forza controller setup. You are missing the same K6 Relay which I think is the root of my problems. Apparently the tap will only work correctly in one position (which I can't install mine in because the relay is in the way). I wish I had wiring diagram for how the controller works. I need to reverse the connections to work with the tap installed the other way.

[LesBaer]

Sorry I couldn't help man. I only saw one pic in your post for some reason.

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by LesBaer

Sorry I couldn't help man. I only saw one pic in your post for some reason.

You're good. I'd appreciate any help at this point.

[SuperSound]

So I'm going to test that the orientation is the only problem by some creative wiring. Going to take apart an old fuse and just use the contacts to hold 2 separates wires in the fuse 51 slot. Then connect the wires in the correct orientation to the fuse tap. If that works I'll have to look into soldering the wires to the tap and mounting it somehow. It would be much easier to figure out if I can rewire the box to accept the fuse tap plugged in like I have it in the first pic. I've emailed the M2W guys twice but no answer.

[SuperSound]

Update:

So I tested the above wiring and confirmed indeed the fuse tap has to be installed in the specific orientation that is blocked by the K6 relay. So at least I've eliminated problems with the remotes and box itself. Now I'm looking at different solutions to running extension wires to the fuse tap. I'm wondering if using an inline ATP fuse holder connected directly to the #51 slot is the best choice. That way I can just plug the fuse tap into inline fuse holder, then solder the wires to the 2 contacts I removed from an old fuse. If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions feel free. I'm also in contact with the Mild2Wild guys to let them know of my findings.

Attached is a pic of the "temp wiring" I used to verify everything worked.

[V8Addict]

why are you guys doing any wire splitting/splicing? As this video shows, its a plug n play operation (worked exactly as shown for me).

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by V8Addict

why are you guys doing any wire splitting/splicing? As this video shows, its a plug n play operation (worked exactly as shown for me).

You didn't read or look at my pics did you? It would be plug and play if I didn't have a relay in the way.

[Fraxum]

I am wondering what the Mild to Wild does on the CA6 NPP. You can turn on stealth full time, even startup, and the fulltime sport/track sound mode the flaps only close on when you are cruising. Is the cruising open flaps the thing? Just wondering.

I have LTs/cats and the quieter cruising is nice with no drone in any mode.

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

I am wondering what the Mild to Wild does on the CA6 NPP. You can turn on stealth full time, even startup, and the fulltime sport/track sound mode the flaps only close on when you are cruising. Is the cruising open flaps the thing? Just wondering.

I have LTs/cats and the quieter cruising is nice with no drone in any mode.

It really isn't just cruising from what I've noticed. It happens a lot at just low throttle inputs. It is just far to quick to close the valves IMO. It's also annoying to me when I want to blip the throttle a bit. It will delay opening so it sounds more like the car stumbled than a blip on the throttle. It is very much a personal preference. Since you have LTs you already have a bit more sound than stock, so I can see liking it to prevent drone.

[SuperSound]

Update:

So big thanks to the M2W guys. They gave me an much easier workaround of using the fuse tap on another fuse that it will fit on (used the seat heater fuse which is 15A) and running the white wire to the negative terminal on the #51 fuse slot. Works perfectly now. I will take some pics and do a step by step write up here in case others with this mystery K6 relay need help.

[C10_ustacould]

I'm curious why you would need this when you can control the exhaust on the 8" display? You can have it open all the time or super quiet "stealth" mode. Am I missing something?

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by C10_ustacould

I'm curious why you would need this when you can control the exhaust on the 8" display? You can have it open all the time or super quiet "stealth" mode. Am I missing something?

Indeed read about the npp fuse pull. I mentioned some of it in one of the replies above.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Teem0s42]

Can you post those pics? I can't seem to get this to work on my car...

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Teem0s42

Can you post those pics? I can't seem to get this to work on my car...

Sorry, totally forgot to upload a pic of the final setup. Here it is. The angle is looking at the fuse box from the front passenger side. My car has heated seats which is where the tap was installed. Install both 15 amp fuses into the tap and remove the white wire. Then the white wire is ran to the positive terminal on the NPP fuse socket. Let me know if you need more help.

*edit: the upload rotated the pic 90 degrees to the right FYI