[driven2exceSS]

Just got the much anticipated shipping notification!! THANK YOU Terry!!!

[mt.nichols]

So can these be used to quickly adjust camber before/after a track day without a significant change in toe?

I'm eating through tires. Average 3 days and maybe 1500 street miles per set of front tires.

[Chris V]

Originally Posted by mt.nichols

So can these be used to quickly adjust camber before/after a track day without a significant change in toe?

I'm eating through tires. Average 3 days and maybe 1500 street miles per set of front tires.

No, there are no plates that can adjust camber without changing toe.

Plates move the top of the strut, which changes the angle of the strut. The angle of the strut impacts the toe rod, which changes toe.

Camber isn’t what kills tires though, toe does. Set your camber to -4* or so and toe to zero, and tires will live pretty happily.

[Black E]

Sorry if it’s been discussed already but do these work with the ZLE’s dampers as well?

[mt.nichols]

Originally Posted by Chris V

No, there are no plates that can adjust camber without changing toe.

Plates move the top of the strut, which changes the angle of the strut. The angle of the strut impacts the toe rod, which changes toe.

Camber isn’t what kills tires though, toe does. Set your camber to -4* or so and toe to zero, and tires will live pretty happily.

I hadn't thought about movement of the tie rod, makes sense. Thanks for the info.

So, assuming the toe is in check, what should I reasonably expect out of a set of track tires on this car? 3 days and maybe 1500 street miles seems like a pretty short life.

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by mt.nichols

I hadn't thought about movement of the tie rod, makes sense. Thanks for the info.

So, assuming the toe is in check, what should I reasonably expect out of a set of track tires on this car? 3 days and maybe 1500 street miles seems like a pretty short life.

Really depends on the track, tires, driving style etc. i see you have a zl1 1LE, which these plates are for SS1LE, SS and ZL1. They won’t fit a zl1 1LE spring.

[carguy55]

About how many hours do they take to install?

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by carguy55

About how many hours do they take to install?

On a lift maybe an hour, on jackstands 2 tops. Got mine in about 30 per side but i’ve done numerous vorshlag installs. PM me if anyone needs remote help

[driven2exceSS]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

On a lift maybe an hour, on jackstands 2 tops. Got mine in about 30 per side but i’ve done numerous vorshlag installs. PM me if anyone needs remote help

Ty!! I have the struts out awaiting the arrival of the plates. Do they come with any sort of install instructions?? My first set of camber plates.

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by driven2exceSS

Ty!! I have the struts out awaiting the arrival of the plates. Do they come with any sort of install instructions?? My first set of camber plates.

I’ll do a write up post on here. Give me a few minutes.

[Move_Over]

DIY Write up. Sorry no photos. I get 2-3 photos in and forget to take more. So my DIY's are always just words. If anyone has any questions or any steps are unclear feel free to ask. If you mess your car up, injure yourself, die, lose a 10mm I am in no way responsible
Important tools: BFH (big effin hammer), BFBB (big effin breaker bar) 1/2 impact wrench, good socket set, McPherson style spring compressor, floor jack, good jack stands, open-ended 18mm wrench and most importantly common sense. If you do not feel comfortable as you read through these, take it to a trusted shop.

1: Set Parking Brake

2: If you don't have air or an impact to take off lugs, crack the lug nuts loose before raising the car.

3: Jack the front end up and support the front end using appropriate jackstands. Do not do one side at a time using a floor jack. Make sure the front end is at a medium/high height, when you remove/lower the struts that will make more sense.

4: Remove wheels, when I am on jackstands I always throw the wheels under the vehicle for emergency purposes.
Important, make sure to remove the MRC ride heigh sensor arms from the control arm, if you do not, you risk overextending the sensor and breaking it

5: Remove both 18mm endlink nuts at the strut end. This may take holding in place with a 5mm hex wrench. Swing the endlinks out of the way.

6: Unclip brake hose, 10mm brake hose bracket, and ABS clips from the control arms. This will allow you enough slack to drop the hub down and pull the strut assembly.

At this point, there are two options; remove the strut assembly completely (which I recommend) or leave the strut alignment bolts alone, drop and fold the strut assembly outward. You'll need an alignment, either way, so removing the extra two 24mm bolts and using a spring compressor off the car I think is easier than messing with folding the strut out. But you can very well leave it in and be fine.

7: If you choose to remove the strut assembly completely, crack those two big 24mm nuts loose with a breaker bar. Do not remove completely at this time, please. Remove MRC plug If you want to leave the strut attached to the knuckle, skip this step.

8: Support the whole spindle assembly with a floor jack. Give the jack one pump, make sure it is fully supported. I either do this at the ball joint behind the rotor, or at the rotor itself. You choose, there's not really a right or wrong way.

9: Once the whole spindle/hub it supported, go ahead up top and remove the three 13mm bolts that hold the strut to the strut tower. Since you supported the spindle down below, the spindle will not drop on it's own. Slowly lower the floor jack, while carefully guiding the strut out of the wheel well. Do not let it drop completely. While you are doing this, make sure the brake and ABS lines do not get stretched. There is plenty of slack in there, but if you go down too much you will pull on the lines

10: If you want to remove the strut, remove the 24mm nuts, and knock out the strut alignment bolts. The strut will now be totally free. Use a ratchet strap or heavy bungee cord to support the spindle assembly as it will also be free to move around as the only thing you have holding it up is the jack.

If you do not remove the strut, lower the jack down enough to fold the strut outward so the top hat assembly is outside of the wheel well.

11: Use a Mcpherson strut style strut spring compressor to compress the springs. If you do not know how to use a spring compressor, go back to step one, remove the parking brake and go to a shop to do this. For the sake of your teeth.

12: Now that the spring is totally compressed, it should be free around the strut assembly. Remove the top nut using a deep well socket. (i believe it is a 19mm but I forget). The OEM top plate can now be removed.

13: On the SS1le there is no external bump stop, you only need to transfer the OEM rubber spring isolator, and dust boot. If this is for track use, you really don't need a dust boot. If you are driving in winter conditions, the Sahara or underwater, throw your dust boot on.

14: As delivered by Vorshlag, now slide their camber plate onto the stock strut. Remember to put the rubber spring isolator on the Vorshlag upper spring perch. Remove the two hex button head hex bolts from the vorshlag camber plate. These get reinstalled during alignment, but they are for alignment only. It appears they will fit in the rubber guide holes, but they, in fact, do not. Ask me how I figured it out!

15: With an impact, tighten down the top nut. This does not need to be gorilla tight, but you will know when it is seated all the way down.

16: You can now slowly release the spring compressor. Make sure the spring is seated on the bottom spring perch the way it was taken off.

17: After the spring is seated onto the strut assembly, carefully swing the assembly back into the wheel well (or put the strut back on the knuckle if you chose to take it off).

You will notice you now have studs coming out of the vorshlag slide plate instead of the factory style OEM bolt holes. Be careful with these, as you can snag them on your fender if you are not careful

18: Helps to have a spare set of hands for this step. Slowly jack the whole spindle assembly into the strut tower. Guiding it with one hand, make sure the plate is oriented to the correct direction. I'm 99% sure it can only go one way. Camber slides in and out, not front to rear. Do not adjust the castor, leave it in the forward position. I would adjust the camber to the maximum amount and have the alignment shop deal with removing camber if needed.

19: Once you get the strut jacked back into position, tighten the three top bolts to 20 ft lbs. If you removed the strut, put the alignment bolts back in. This can be a little tricky. You will need to hammer in the spindled side and run the 24mm nut down with an impact. This needs to be tightened to 140+90 degrees (my digital torque wrench told me the 90 grees was worth 272 ft lbs of torque but each bolt is different.) I would just get these very, very tight and have your alignment shop tighten them to spec, as he/she will have to loosen them up again for an alignment.

20. Once the strut alignment bolts are in, and top bolts are tight, remove the floor jack as you are done with it.

21: At this point, go ahead and replace everything you took off, including clips, fasteners, etc. Make sure you reconnect the 10mm brake hose bolt, the ABS clips, and the very important ride height sensor arm.

22: Reinstall the endlink nuts, you will need an opened ended wrench for this and a 5mm hex key. I have heard these have been changed on some "recalled" cars. So the sizes may very well be different. I do not know the torque spec of these, but i have read a few different specs. 95, 105 and 107 ft lbs. I torqued mine to 100 with a little blue Loctite and have not had issues.

23: Replace wheels and torque to 140FT lbs (this can be done with the car on the ground but be sure the wheels are semi-tight in the air and they are seated properly).

24: Lower the vehicle, go for a quick drive with some bumps and some hard brakes to quickly settle the springs.

That's it. I may have forgotten a minute detail here or there, but all of the big steps are here. I have done this several times on several cars so this is a 3/10 difficulty for me, but it can seem daunting to some. Don't hesitate to ask.

Alignment notes: Depending on your wheel and tire specs, you will want to set the plates for maximum camber, and fine tune the camber with the knuckle adjustments. I needed maximum clearance for my 18" x 10.5" wheels, so i pushed the strut all the way in (maximum on the little camber reference settings), and used the knuckle for camber adjustments. With a stock setup, I'd venture to say you can get up to -3.7 worth of camber with these plates, more if you shave/slot your camber holes.

I've seen the question asked several times Can i mark the plates for street and track? The answer would be no, while camber can be set, the TOE between the two will be too far apart to make them both street and track acceptable. These plates are not designed to have a "dual setting" alignment but mainly for adding camber for tire wear. Camber is not the enemy for tire wear, toe is!

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by Black E

Sorry if it’s been discussed already but do these work with the ZLE’s dampers as well?

No sir. They will not.

[JRL1LE]

Thanks for the write up! How much camber do u run in the rear? I think max rear is about 1.7 maybe?

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by JRL1LE

Thanks for the write up! How much camber do u run in the rear? I think max rear is about 1.7 maybe?

1.6-1.8 with a touch of toe IN. read your tires after your truck sessions they will tell you if they want more camber