Top stops working up and down

[tooltime]

Looking for some info on what could be the issue here. The top will start to go up or down stop, you have to let the switch go neutral and start again. This will happen three times during the full movement of the top. Either up or down. Limit switches. Motor. The switch itself? Any help would be great. Been like this for a bit. Hate to get caught with it half way and totally quit! Suggestions?

[Jonesm24]

Are you leaking oil on either side of the car just in front of the rear wheels? If so, your lift cylinders for the top has gone bad and your loosing oil from the hydraulic system. This happened to me. My top would stop halfway and loose power to push, then I started to notice the oil spots on my garage floor on the drivers side. I went ahead and replaced both cylinders since I had to tear apart the whole interior in the back to get at them.

[tooltime]

No oil at all. The motor just shuts down. Like it turns off

[Plastik]

Originally Posted by tooltime

No oil at all. The motor just shuts down. Like it turns off

Did you get this resolved? Seeing the same issue.

[nazarah]

Sounds like the same issue I am having

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564860

I'm all ears if you guys find a solution!

[Plastik]

Originally Posted by nazarah

Sounds like the same issue I am having

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564860

I'm all ears if you guys find a solution!

I have been really thinking this problem out. I know where I am going first. I think there is a bind in there, bad bushing or a dry joint. Last fall I heard a creaking noise when I put the top up. I got white lithium and sprayed all the joints and moving parts I could see. It has been fine most of the summer but At the point where it now stops was where I heard the creaking start. It was always at the same point as is the stopping. By letting off the switch (i don't have to go backwards, yet) you allow the ecu to reset the High amp bit. It goes to the next bind and stops, same thing. It has to be an overdraw on amperage. as our cars get older the factory joint lube has to wear off or a damn plastic bushing somewhere is wore/brittle. Did you ever see the mechanical print for that Hinge/Joint assy?

[nazarah]

I think that is a valid theory. I haven't seen the print for the hinge yet. I can imagine it's probably a fair bit more complicated than I am thinking it is though. Winter time here for us so the top will be up for the next six months or so.

[Plastik]

Originally Posted by nazarah

I think that is a valid theory. I haven't seen the print for the hinge yet. I can imagine it's probably a fair bit more complicated than I am thinking it is though. Winter time here for us so the top will be up for the next six months or so.

I dropped the top and went to the store. It was acting up going down, never happened before. I did notice though that when I let off the up/down button the top still moved a little. That means there was pressure to the cylinders but whatever it was fighting was causing too much resistance. After I saw that I knew I was right and I think I have it fixed.


Ok here is what I did and the result. I put the top 1/2 way. I sprayed every joint both sides with white lithium grease. I also sprayed the piston rods that were extended. I got the spray way down in there. I did this to both sides. I lifted the top flap and sprayed all the joints and pivots very heavily.


I then put the top down. Crossed my fingers and hit the up button, never even hesitated. I will be doing this every spring and fall. I just have to get a long spray tube to really get down there to the piston. I'm thinking it may be died out rod seals. There is an internal and external one. If the internal is good the external will get no lube. so by covering the piston shaft it will lube the seal. It even sounds better, like it is not straining at all. I would suggest a $3.00 can of white lithium to start. It took 15 min, most of the time was opening and closing the top. I also cleaned the leaves out of the water bag while I was doing the lube.


Good Luck!

[joekono]

Good idea Plastik. I think I will add the white lithium grease to my maintenance list.

[Deputy347k9]

OK, I keep two cans of white lithium grease on hand at all times. Owning a convertible also I am wondering "where or who" sells or can make an extra long spray tube for reaching the needed distance? I would for sure would purchase a couple.

I have not had this issue with my 2014 but Plastik's idea of adding this to your annual maintenance list may PREVENT further issues or potential damage.

[Deputy347k9]

Originally Posted by Plastik

I dropped the top and went to the store. It was acting up going down, never happened before. I did notice though that when I let off the up/down button the top still moved a little. That means there was pressure to the cylinders but whatever it was fighting was causing too much resistance. After I saw that I knew I was right and I think I have it fixed.


Ok here is what I did and the result. I put the top 1/2 way. I sprayed every joint both sides with white lithium grease. I also sprayed the piston rods that were extended. I got the spray way down in there. I did this to both sides. I lifted the top flap and sprayed all the joints and pivots very heavily.


I then put the top down. Crossed my fingers and hit the up button, never even hesitated. I will be doing this every spring and fall. I just have to get a long spray tube to really get down there to the piston. I'm thinking it may be died out rod seals. There is an internal and external one. If the internal is good the external will get no lube. so by covering the piston shaft it will lube the seal. It even sounds better, like it is not straining at all. I would suggest a $3.00 can of white lithium to start. It took 15 min, most of the time was opening and closing the top. I also cleaned the leaves out of the water bag while I was doing the lube.


Good Luck!

Question: How long do you think the "spray tube" would have to be to reach the needed location?