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Old 10-06-2016, 10:57 AM   #1
CGbambam
 
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Roll Racing and stock axles

I know their is a lot of variables to account for but what you say is the strength of stock axles from a roll. So far I've pushed my stock rear end up to 900rwhp hp from a roll on sticky tires and haven't had an issue.

So my question is has anybody broken axles from a roll? or anything in the rear end? If so was it on the street or some kind of prepped air strip or something and what power lvl.
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Old 10-06-2016, 12:28 PM   #2
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i was driving my buddy 2011 ss with 650 wheel hp and i snapped both axles hitting a 3rd to 4th gear shift on the street. so it can happen at any time. easy to replace if you know how to turn a wrench. since then he got DSS 1000HP Axles.
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:02 PM   #3
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Roll racing is not near as hard as a standing start, the only thing i would say is this. They will more then likely hold as long as you dont break free, spin and get traction again or wheel hop. But the material the axles are made from are not all that great a material, think of a old coat hanger it will take bending for a bit but eventually it will break. The stock axle will also do this, strength is one side but having hi grade chromoly on a part like this is used so it actually has a higher fatigue cycle so it can bend and come back over and over.
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:42 PM   #4
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I was 680rwhp for a long time and never had a problem keeping it to rolls.
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:25 PM   #5
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I have been running at the Texas Mile now since 2010.
I am up to 950 RWHP and 209MPH. Manual Trans, stock Axles-no Issues.
If I want to go faster I have to go aftermarket gears to get a somewhere around 3-3.10 ratio.
Really big money for these.
Anyone want to sponsor?
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustaCamaro View Post
I have been running at the Texas Mile now since 2010.
I am up to 950 RWHP and 209MPH. Manual Trans, stock Axles-no Issues.
If I want to go faster I have to go aftermarket gears to get a somewhere around 3-3.10 ratio.
Really big money for these.
Anyone want to sponsor?
I run a 3.07 rear gear, and with my old motor setup going to 7,000 ish rpm shifts I was shifting into 5th at 195-200, are you running at all in 5th gear? Manual or automatic... Which trans if auto...

With my new motor setup and 8,700 rpm shifts I go 225-230 in 4th gear..

Are you running this month, if so, I would like to meet up in person...
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:41 AM   #7
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I am skipping Oct. this year, planning on April again I think. We were probably there together in April. I got a screw in my tire 1st run on Sat and had to quit.

I am right at redline (7200) at the end of the mile in 5th.

Around a 3.10 would get me 220-230 in 5th.

Except for the clutch my driveline is all stock, 3.27 ratio.

Who's rear end are you running?
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:35 AM   #8
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1400 dss axles and half shafts might be weaker than factory 2-3 shift they snap almost every couple of passes on 765 rwhp on 20" nitto 555r's. Warranty lol Frank's warranty lol!
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustaCamaro View Post
I am skipping Oct. this year, planning on April again I think. We were probably there together in April. I got a screw in my tire 1st run on Sat and had to quit.

I am right at redline (7200) at the end of the mile in 5th.

Around a 3.10 would get me 220-230 in 5th.

Except for the clutch my driveline is all stock, 3.27 ratio.

Who's rear end are you running?
I run the DSS nine inch kit, with 1400 hp rated axles... It's a strange center section and a wave track diff... 3.07 gears...

I've thought about going to a 3.27 ish gear, to help my intermediate speeds... I have a lot of gear left in 5th, as my gear ratio and rams allow for 299.XX in 5th gear... If I brought that down to say 265-270 at the redline in 5th, my intermediate trap speeds would be higher... resulting in a faster overall pass... We are still trying to shake the car out and work through minor issues with the new power plant...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:19 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Js2fst View Post
1400 dss axles and half shafts might be weaker than factory 2-3 shift they snap almost every couple of passes on 765 rwhp on 20" nitto 555r's. Warranty lol Frank's warranty lol!
This is not a vendor review thread.

I have many passes with close to three times the power and have never broken one. I would be looking hard at the set up/driving style if I had broken them multiple times. For starters the 20 inch Nittos provide traction with no sidewall for softening the blow of a hard shift or launch...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:22 PM   #11
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Totso did it also on 18's! I have a friend who did it also.

So wouldn't 20's and hard 555's spin before driveshaft and half shafts were just around 650 before e85 while street tuning.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Js2fst View Post
Totso did it also on 18's! I have a friend who did it also.

So wouldn't 20's and hard 555's spin before driveshaft and half shafts were just around 650 before e85 while street tuning.
Possibly, Like I said, I would be looking hard at the set up... Suspension geometry etc... Bolting on parts isn't always a path to success.. Parts compatibility can be an issue. With a lowered car, axle angle can change increasing the angle into the diff/hubs, putting tremendous stress on the CV joints and or the axle shafts.

As for the driveshaft, if nothing has changed, then it would take some looking to determine the cause of failures. If an aftermarket diff has been installed, then the pinion angle needs to be verified and corrected if any issue is found. I know you have a lot of good aftermarket parts according to your signature line. Do you have upgraded bushings as well to stabilize the rear cradle. is everything tight and has a full complete alignment been performed to ensure not only the toe/caster/camber but the alignment of the rear cradle as well. Just things to look at...

Nothing in the driveline has changed or been moved since April, but I will still take my car in prior to running the mile and have everything checked to make sure nothing has changed/moved. When we changed my transmission, and ordered a new custom driveshaft, (4" one piece aluminum) we spent hours verifying the pinion angle between he trans and the diff. This was due to motor plating the engine.... Small changes can make a big difference...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 10-09-2016, 06:19 PM   #13
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Name:  image.jpeg
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Size:  96.5 KB just like my buddy's carbon fiber one
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:37 PM   #14
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Attachment 825695 just like my buddy's carbon fiber one
Wow, Thats rough...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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