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Old 08-21-2020, 05:59 AM   #1
Rochie
 
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Hood heat extractor clearance

Hi guys
I have a 2010 SS with TVS 2300 blower. I want to install a vent heat extractor in the hood to help with cooling. Does anyone know if the ‘4teen’ insert will clear the blower? If not has anyone installed the SLP one on a 2010 with a blower setup?
Very nervous about cutting into the hood then finding it doesnt work!!
Any help or advice would be great.
Thanks
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Old 08-21-2020, 04:07 PM   #2
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I believe SLP has one that clears without issue. What does Phastek have to say about it? They're pretty good about knowing what works with what.
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Old 08-21-2020, 06:29 PM   #3
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If you’re not doing this for cosmetics, an easy trial adjustment is to open the hood, then remove the weather stripping at the top of the firewall. This will allow the escape of a lot of underhood heat and air which has the added affect of reducing front end lift and in my experience reduces hood bounce at speed...

Check and see if that helps your underhood temps and then decide if you want to proceed with cutting the hood....
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Old 08-21-2020, 07:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
If you’re not doing this for cosmetics, then an easy trial adjustment is to open the hood, then remove the weather stripping at the top of the firewall. This will allow the escape of a lot of underhood heat and air which has the added affect of reducing front end lift and in my experience reduces hood bounce at speed...

Check and see if that helps your underhood temps and then decide if you want to proceed with cutting the hood....
This will also allow toxic air from the engine compartment to get into the
cabin when you have the heat or A/C on. So,if you have any oil burning on
the engine, exhaust leaks, you'll smell it.

ALSO, I run without the engine cover, and my intake plenum is never hot
to the touch. I run 376+ miles a day, and at my last gas stop, I open the
hood to check the oil and so on. I can touch the metal intake manifold
and it's barely warm, and actually COLD in 45 degree weather. The engine
cover is what retains the heat, not the hood.

Doesn't matter what the block temperature is, if it's cooler air you're looking
for, and cooler for performance, remove the engine cover.
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Old 08-21-2020, 07:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
If you’re not doing this for cosmetics, then an easy trial adjustment is to open the hood, then remove the weather stripping at the top of the firewall. This will allow the escape of a lot of underhood heat and air which has the added affect of reducing front end lift and in my experience reduces hood bounce at speed...

Check and see if that helps your underhood temps and then decide if you want to proceed with cutting the hood....
I did this with my 2011 built SS/RS and it works great! Reduces the engine compartment temps considerably. and DOES NOT let toxic under hood smells get into the cabin when the AC and heater are running. Just saying... Also the corvette guys do this too, that's where I got it from..
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Old 08-21-2020, 09:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude View Post
This will also allow toxic air from the engine compartment to get into the
cabin when you have the heat or A/C on. So,if you have any oil burning on
the engine, exhaust leaks, you'll smell it.

ALSO, I run without the engine cover, and my intake plenum is never hot
to the touch. I run 376+ miles a day, and at my last gas stop, I open the
hood to check the oil and so on. I can touch the metal intake manifold
and it's barely warm, and actually COLD in 45 degree weather. The engine
cover is what retains the heat, not the hood.

Doesn't matter what the block temperature is, if it's cooler air you're looking
for, and cooler for performance, remove the engine cover.
Please, are your speaking from actual experience or is this internet lore and supposition. I did this as well before I ever built a motor and went TT.

Numerous friends have done the same and never experienced this “toxic” combination of exhaust fumes and burning oil....The weather strip is to keep road grime and potential oil or coolant spray from getting on the windshield. It doesn’t seal anything in the form of toxic fumes and smells...

As for the “engine” cover, note the OP has a TVS blower, so his engine cover is long gone.... He is looking for further cooling for the heat pump on top of his engine...

I also removed the big gawky engine cover, and built a 2000 rwhp TT car.... My intake, the actual intake, is usually ambient temps at the end of a WOT mile pass upwards of 225 mph... I’ll also venture my oil and coolant temps are lower than yours on your 376 mile jaunts.

OP, I only stated things I’ve actually done and have experience with....

10 Camarodude, you do you....
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 08-21-2020, 10:08 PM   #7
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I bought ACS insert, it fit right into the stock insert hole. It clears my LSA without any issue.
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Old 08-21-2020, 10:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkyrie14 View Post
I bought ACS insert, it fit right into the stock insert hole. It clears my LSA without any issue.
That looks sharp...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti

If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...
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Old 08-22-2020, 08:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS View Post
Please, are your speaking from actual experience or is this internet lore and supposition. I did this as well before I ever built a motor and went TT.

Numerous friends have done the same and never experienced this “toxic” combination of exhaust fumes and burning oil....The weather strip is to keep road grime and potential oil or coolant spray from getting on the windshield. It doesn’t seal anything in the form of toxic fumes and smells...

As for the “engine” cover, note the OP has a TVS blower, so his engine cover is long gone.... He is looking for further cooling for the heat pump on top of his engine...

I also removed the big gawky engine cover, and built a 2000 rwhp TT car.... My intake, the actual intake, is usually ambient temps at the end of a WOT mile pass upwards of 225 mph... I’ll also venture my oil and coolant temps are lower than yours on your 376 mile jaunts.

OP, I only stated things I’ve actually done and have experience with....

10 Camarodude, you do you....
Well said my friend ! Nice setup by the way sir !!
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Old 08-22-2020, 08:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkyrie14 View Post
I bought ACS insert, it fit right into the stock insert hole. It clears my LSA without any issue.
That looks really cool !!
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Old 08-22-2020, 09:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkyrie14 View Post
I bought ACS insert, it fit right into the stock insert hole. It clears my LSA without any issue.
Not to hijack the thread but I have one of these I'm not using if anyone is interested. I ended up using the stock insert and grinding it down to clear the Whipple.


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Old 11-14-2021, 02:40 PM   #12
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Will this work with a lsa under the hood ?
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Old 11-18-2021, 07:50 AM   #13
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I don't know how much space you have between your sc and the liner but I can tell you that the oem hood vent sticks down below the oem hood liner about 1" at the back if you have the rain gutter on it. Without the gutter it's about 1/2" below the liner.

I added mine myself (wife freaked out when she saw me cutting my hood lol)
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