[OVRKLL]

I installed Kooks headers with Cats and AWE cat back exhaust.
After about a week I got a CEL, which looks to be my Knock sensors however, I don't believe my sensors are bad being I only have 30k miles.
But I guess I can't rule that out entirely...is there a way to test the knock sensors?

I did have the car tuned after the install, and I have been told to zero out all the Static Knock Retard table, but would this be safe to do?

Doesn't the sensor serve a purpose for knock/pre-ingnition?
Is there another way around this, as the CEL would fault me on my inspection, although my cats seem to be ok and not throwing any codes.

Should I have the tuner zero out all the Static Knock Retard table?
Right now the knock sensor maximum effectiveness is reduced from 10 degrees to 6 degrees.

The tuner asked me to change the brand of gas I use, I was using Costco 93, then tried Exxon 93, no difference. I was sure that all the Costco gas was used, and cleared the CEL when I filled with Exxon.

Any suggestions?

[geaux_tigerss]

Assume knock is real until proven otherwise. I wouldn’t zero tables.

Are you sure you don’t have any metal to metal contact with headers? That can cause it. It’s worth getting under the car and checking everything. Motor mounts, steering shaft, heat shields, etc.

Are you data logging? Where are you seeing the knock? Same place every time? If so, drop some timing in that region and see if it goes away. Feel free to copy the low octane spark table to the high octane table and data log. Of knock goes away you know you had pre ignition. If not, time to troubleshoot. Bad knock sensors are pretty low likelihood but not impossible. More likely this is knock or metal contact fooling the sensor. I’ve even heard of a pebble getting stuck in the collector space and cause false knock.

[OVRKLL]

Originally Posted by geaux_tigerss

Assume knock is real until proven otherwise. I wouldn’t zero tables.

Are you sure you don’t have any metal to metal contact with headers? That can cause it. It’s worth getting under the car and checking everything. Motor mounts, steering shaft, heat shields, etc.

Are you data logging? Where are you seeing the knock? Same place every time? If so, drop some timing in that region and see if it goes away. Feel free to copy the low octane spark table to the high octane table and data log. Of knock goes away you know you had pre ignition. If not, time to troubleshoot. Bad knock sensors are pretty low likelihood but not impossible. More likely this is knock or metal contact fooling the sensor. I’ve even heard of a pebble getting stuck in the collector space and cause false knock.

I did a data log and sent it to another tuner, which informed me about the knock effectiveness degrees.The original tuner used a scanner and it came up as a knock sensor and wasn't sure why...and thought maybe the brand of gas would help.

I used a different scanner and got P0331 & P26C5. Not sure what the P26C5 is though. The light is dim at times and then bright at other times. It did go off a few times, but came right back.
I'll check under the car tomorrow to see if there's any metal to metal.

When the car is cold at start up, there's a slight ticking sound, not sure where it's coming from, but as soon at the idle drops the ticking goes away. It's not a knocking type of ticking sound...more like the ticking sound of a clock.
I'll see if I can narrow down where the sound is coming from...seems like on the driver's side, but I'm hearing it from the driver's seat.

Thank you for the suggestion!

[TurboVet]

The Knock sensors are in the side of the block where the headers go. I installed a set of Speed Engineering headers and had to dent the header tube to clear the knock sensor. I would check to see if its hitting.

Potential causes of a P0331 code include:
Knock sensor (KS) connector is damaged
Knock sensor circuit is open or shorted to ground
Knock sensor circuit is shorted to voltage
Knock sensor has failed
Moisture in knock sensor connectors

[OVRKLL]

Originally Posted by TurboVet

The Knock sensors are in the side of the block where the headers go. I installed a set of Speed Engineering headers and had to dent the header tube to clear the knock sensor. I would check to see if its hitting.

Potential causes of a P0331 code include:
Knock sensor (KS) connector is damaged
Knock sensor circuit is open or shorted to ground
Knock sensor circuit is shorted to voltage
Knock sensor has failed
Moisture in knock sensor connectors

Thanks Turbo!
I'll check that when I get the car up on the QJ.
I looked this morning under the hood, and did find the Kooks header bolt locks and C clips were a little loose, so I removed those...that was a nice practice installing them and then taking them off without it falling into the collector area of the headers. I had to use a towel and magnet for insurance falling clips will not happen.
I'll be under the car this afternoon.