[mlee]

Originally Posted by esm

Thanks guys! Should be picking it up next weekend.

You're going to fall in love with that A10 and the Performance Shifting algorithm. It will blow you away on the track.

Hopefully your wife doesn't do what my wife did. I went for the auto thinking she would get more left seat time and I can't remember her ever driving it. But you'll find this car is an easy daily driver.

Congrats and welcome to the forum.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

Actually, the 500/1500 mile people are following GM's engine break-in procedure for LT4 engines. I think someone linked it in a recent thread. Too tired to dig it up now but it's there.

Also, the evidence that I presented above and that's backed by many members that can attest to very dirty oil and diff fluid even when sub 1000 miles should say something. Types who look to cut, ditch, and discount as much as they can, $150 for engine reliability seems like a bad trade.

There's no reason not to do the oil change sooner than later. None. Other than the cost. There's NO other negative. It takes as much time as a trim and hot shave.

Don't really want to jump in the middle of this one as both of you guys are correct. But the evidence you produced in another thread (I believe it's a sticky now) had me ready to do mine at 500 but after searching and speaking to some GM folks there was no early change recommendations. Since I had a 1,400 mile trip home I did do mine at 1,500 for the reasons you just stated... why not. I also inspected the oil coming out and it looked perfect. The rear end had almost zero shavings on the magnet but did have a very slight gray tint. Bottom line it really didn't need changing but I have piece of mind that it's all good and the right fluid went back in.

All I have left now is swapping to DOT4 brake fluid.

[esm]

Originally Posted by mlee

You're going to fall in love with that A10 and the Performance Shifting algorithm. It will blow you away on the track.

Hopefully your wife doesn't do what my wife did. I went for the auto thinking she would get more left seat time and I can't remember her ever driving it. But you'll find this car is an easy daily driver.

Congrats and welcome to the forum.

My goal is to get her hooked on track days at COTA so I can go more often. Might even make her drive it down the quarter mile!

[Sakudog]

I came from a manual car and now, in an A10 and frequent COTA about 5-6 times a year. I do not, in any way, miss a manual, especially when I'm driving on MOPAC to work. A10 is quick on COTA and very consistent.

I've gone slightly quicker than this lap, but you get the idea...

[Bosse'sBoss]

Vipers and specially the ACR model are very special cars, i would say on the exotic car league, supreme at the track and to look at but a torture chamber and impractical for a DD car, I think you would love the Camaro ZL1, I see many happy customers driving DD their Camaros. I also would one day change my nice looking Stingray Z51 for a 6th. Gen SS 1LE or ZL1, probably I would miss only the looks of my Stingray but I should also enjoy my Camaro. I had a great driving experience with my prior 5th gen Camaro ZL1, so I expect much better with the 6th. gen. Go for it.

[mblum]

Originally Posted by esm

I'm working on a deal for a Black ZL1! I'll be driving it home about 1,000 miles home. How big a deal is it to miss the 500 mile oil change?

There always seems to be mixed opinions on this, but I will give my $.02 based off my experience.

Any new engine I have built or have had built over the years always got the oil changed after a few hundred miles. The filter would be cut open and inspected, which will tell you a lot about what's going on inside and engine. I also carry over this mindset to any new vehicle. I changed the oil on my 17 ZL1 at 700 miles, 18 Silverado at 900 miles and my wife's 18 Acadia at 1000 miles. When I changed the oil in all of these vehicles I cut the oil filter open and inspect the filtering elements and have found a noticeable about of aluminum casting flash and assembly lube. While the oil looks great and the oil filter is doing it's job all should be fine. For me personally, I don't like the idea of relying on my filter to contain all these contaminants (which is a lot more than what is seen on any normal oil change on a healthy engine) for the next few thousand miles or when ever the recommended first scheduled oil change is. It gives me peace of mind to remove the filter and oil from the new engine for fresh.

I do the same procedure on the second oil change and has always shown very clean oil and filter. At this point I start doing normal oil change intervals.

OP, I wouldn't be overly concerned about going to 1000 miles but I would make it a point to have it changed ASAP once you arrive home.

[esm]

Originally Posted by Sakudog

I came from a manual car and now, in an A10 and frequent COTA about 5-6 times a year. I do not, in any way, miss a manual, especially when I'm driving on MOPAC to work. A10 is quick on COTA and very consistent.

I've gone slightly quicker than this lap, but you get the idea...

Nice! that's faster then I went in the Viper with traffic, I never got a clean lap and didn't get under 2:30's. I was hitting about the same MPH on the back stretch too! Can't wait!


Did you change the brake pads for the track? The pads on the Viper faded and I had to go with aftermarket.

[esm]

Originally Posted by mblum

OP, I wouldn't be overly concerned about going to 1000 miles but I would make it a point to have it changed ASAP once you arrive home.

Thanks, I've already order the oil. I sure as hell didn't want to change the oil in Dallas on the way back! I also plan on sending the oil to Blackstone.

[unavailablezl1]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

Actually, the 500/1500 mile people are following GM's engine break-in procedure for LT4 engines. I think someone linked it in a recent thread. Too tired to dig it up now but it's there.

Also, the evidence that I presented above and that's backed by many members that can attest to very dirty oil and diff fluid even when sub 1000 miles should say something. Types who look to cut, ditch, and discount as much as they can, $150 for engine reliability seems like a bad trade.

There's no reason not to do the oil change sooner than later. None. Other than the cost. There's NO other negative. It takes as much time as a trim and hot shave.

I chickened out and had my first change at 1700 miles, I just had to have it done. The dealer said it was not necessary, but I did it anyway. It was part of my first 2 free ones. I have had 2 changes now and I got to watch both of them. The ZL1 stands now at 5000'ish miles in 18 months

[Sakudog]

Originally Posted by esm

Nice! that's faster then I went in the Viper with traffic, I never got a clean lap and didn't get under 2:30's. I was hitting about the same MPH on the back stretch too! Can't wait!


Did you change the brake pads for the track? The pads on the Viper faded and I had to go with aftermarket.

- Ask the dealer ( I use Covert) to do a full brake bleed (they use their tech 2 to cycle the ABS block) and use Castrol SRF or equiv. (I like SRF)

- Upgrade the brake pads for COTA! I use Colbalt's offering for our cars, not cheap about $1K a set.

- Track alignment (GM has a PDF, the dealers know how to align)

- Order a HANS Hybrid-S and an SA2015 helmet because this shit is as fast as the Viper and in case there is a problem on T10 or T19/T20 you will see another track day.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by esm

My goal is to get her hooked on track days at COTA so I can go more often. Might even make her drive it down the quarter mile!

Go big or go home... come over to Houston and run MSR with us Dec 16th and then work up to COTA.

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by mlee

Don't really want to jump in the middle of this one as both of you guys are correct. But the evidence you produced in another thread (I believe it's a sticky now) had me ready to do mine at 500 but after searching and speaking to some GM folks there was no early change recommendations. Since I had a 1,400 mile trip home I did do mine at 1,500 for the reasons you just stated... why not. I also inspected the oil coming out and it looked perfect. The rear end had almost zero shavings on the magnet but did have a very slight gray tint. Bottom line it really didn't need changing but I have piece of mind that it's all good and the right fluid went back in.

All I have left now is swapping to DOT4 brake fluid.

There's no information that you get handed when you buy a the car that says "Get it changed at 500 and again at 1500". However, if you look at the paperwork that GM gives dealers on LT4 crate engines, they say to do 500/1500 mile oil changes on it. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying there is literature that specifies the changes. Also, the oil that came out of mine was definitely used up about 50-60% as was my Z06. The diff fluid wasn't that bad but plenty of shavings on the cap.

Like I said, doing the early changes IS pampering the car. These new engines are built much cleaner and tighter then they used to be and run on great oil out of the box. However, after seeing what the oil looked like, I'd rather just change it because the cost is paltry and knowing the car is in as best shape as possible is worth it to me.

[esm]

Originally Posted by mlee

Go big or go home... come over to Houston and run MSR with us Dec 16th and then work up to COTA.

I might have to do that! I've ran 3 track days at COTA in the Viper.

[esm]

Originally Posted by Sakudog

- Ask the dealer ( I use Covert) to do a full brake bleed (they use their tech 2 to cycle the ABS block) and use Castrol SRF or equiv. (I like SRF)

- Upgrade the brake pads for COTA! I use Colbalt's offering for our cars, not cheap about $1K a set.

- Track alignment (GM has a PDF, the dealers know how to align)

- Order a HANS Hybrid-S and an SA2015 helmet because this shit is as fast as the Viper and in case there is a problem on T10 or T19/T20 you will see another track day.

I did use SRF for the Viper, already have a helmet (no HANS) and good to know about the pads.


Do you swap out street pads and race pads or leave the Colbalt's in? Also, I was about to order PFC pads for the Viper, is anyone running those?