Walnut Blasting - Seems high?

[Mr. Stacy]

Really want to get this done. But this price seems a bit steep. Anybody else have this done?

Walnut Shell Blasting Intake Valve Cleaning.

Work Performed: -removed the needed brackets, hoses,fuel supply lines, as needed and the intake manifold and gasket. Cleaned the gasket surfaces. Cleaned the throttle plate with throttle plate cleaner. Connected walnut shell media blasting tool to all intake ports and cleaned carbon off of intake valves until all carbon is removed. Vacuumed out old walnut shell media and carbon. Reassembled with new intake gasket, High Temp Heavy Duty sealer where needed and other parts listed. Started and ran till engine reached normal operational temp and road tested. Re-inspected. See below for related Tune-up parts replaced at the same time.

10 WALNUT SHELL BLAST MEDIA $44.60
1 PLENUM GASKET KIT $115.96

Shop Supplies $22.35
Total Parts $160.56
Total Labor $584.60
Sales Tax $62.94
Total Estimate $830.45

[Mr. Stacy]

Really? Nobody has had this done? Maybe a DIY?

[Todd in Vancouver]

That price seems fair. I do business consulting in the Auto Repair world and most of the shops I work with are over $100/hr alone. Its an easy 4 hours to do the work so I'd say it was market price.

Its always cheaper to DIY it but we can't always do the work we want ourselves.

[Mr. Stacy]

Originally Posted by Todd in Vancouver

That price seems fair. I do business consulting in the Auto Repair world and most of the shops I work with are over $100/hr alone. Its an easy 4 hours to do the work so I'd say it was market price.

Its always cheaper to DIY it but we can't always do the work we want ourselves.

Thanks Todd. Appreciate your input.

[Elite Engineering]

This can be performed for a very minimal price as these V6's are so easy to remove the intake manifold from.


Pick up a universal shotgun cleaning kit ($10-20), a can of CRC or Amsoil GDI intake valve spray cleaner, a shop vac and compressed air as well a s a roll of masking tape. WEAR EYE protection!!!


Remove IM and clean each ports mating surface. Rotate the engine (socket on crank bolt is best) until the cylinder you re going to be working on has both intake valves complete closed (no debris or solvent can fall into the cylinder then). Look at all ports and you will see several will also be closed at the same time allowing you to clean at least 3 others w/out rotating further.


Tape off the ports where valves are open to prevent any debris from falling into them. Spray the valves and port surface with a good soaking of the solvent and let sit for 15-20 minutes minimum (if severe deposits, use a long shaft flat bladed screw driver to break loose the larger chunks) Ten scrub with the brass brushes using the gun cleaning extensions (this can also be fit in a cordless drill to help) and brush all around the valves and stems (the deposits on the stems are what cause the premature wear of the valve guides). When you have all that is coming loose free, then use shop vac and further compressed air and inspect. Repeat the spray and soak 2-3 times (the more severe the deposits, the more times you repeat) until the valves are completely clean. Then untape the other ports, rotate engine until the valves in them are closed, and repeat. Takes app 2 hours or so if your handy with tools. Once finished, make sure all debris has been vacuumed and blown out of the port and then re-install the IM.


Not hard, and you will not believe the improvement in power and fuel economy. If you do not have a E2-X system (a must for GDI engines as they cannot tolerate even small amounts of ingestion) now will be the time to install it. There is no more effective system available. If you have a port injection V8, the E2 is a great match.


The CSS (clean side separator) is also a must to complete your system.


Let us know if we can be of more help on anything related to crankcase evacuation and air/oil separation. Especially with our knowledge of today's GDI engines.


Team Elite!!

[Mr. Stacy]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Verdana]

This can be performed for a very minimal price as these V6's are so easy to remove the intake manifold from.
....... snip .........

I would give myself the whole day for this to save $800. The RR of the IM is the lions share of the cost.

Walnut shell blasters are only a couple hundred bucks, so I could still do that if I really wanted I guess. This engine has almost 50K on it without a catch can on it so I might be scrubbing for awhile...

What about gaskets and torque settings? I guess I can probably find most of that on the interwebs.

I already have an Elite Catch Can, what does a CSS accomplish?

Thanks!

[C-redfly]

Good information and thanks for the link.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[KaBoom1701]

Labor intensive. ....price seems fair.

[intensifi]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Labor intensive. ....price seems fair.

Yes it is labor intensive! I spent most of a day performing the initial cleaning a couple years ago. It's about time to do it again as no CC is 100% effective.

Or maybe I'll just buy a new car.

[Mr. Stacy]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Labor intensive. ....price seems fair.

Yes, I think I'll try doing it myself. Probably with the rifle cleaning kit as some have suggested.

Probably take me all weekend, as I don't move as fast as I once did.

No biggie. I am sure I will learn a lot about it. Also want to get one of those VMAX TB's installed as well.

Should make a noticeable difference.

I don't want to (just) use the Seafoam method at this point because I am sure at 50k the valves are pretty bad. Prefer to get what I can out this way so less chance of bad stuff going through the engine.

Shouldn't be too bad.

[Mr. Stacy]

Found a place in Everett that does this routinely. Quoted $450 - $500.

Think I'll schedule it.

http://www.zsport.com/