[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by radz28

Well... I did it...

Ordered Mike's PI plates/controller/injectors and supporting mods' to support my E85 upgrade... And as everyone who's done business with Mike, I can now, directly, attest to the kind of great guy he is. He's so supportive.

So: DSX low-side fuel system ordered. All the plumbing and FF sensor from Summit. And sensor harness from Gen5dyi (since none of the plumbing in the kit will be used). In a few weeks my 15- YO and I will install these goodies. Hopefully he'll be as interested as he was when we did the 2650. lol

Very nice! Looking forward to seeing it all buttoned up!

[Joshinator99]

Stage 1 of my 2023 plans are all ordered up! BMR 15” rear conversion is on order and should be here early next week. I also ordered up Forgestar D5 Beadlocks in 15” size along with MT ET Street R in 325/50/15 from PK Auto Design (good guys). Forgestar is on back order so I won’t see those until late March which is fine anyway since we’re still frozen solid up here in New England.

Still need to get Stage 2 figured out (blower upgrade). Magnuson is so crappy to deal with and Whipple isn’t far behind.

[JSH]

Dyno 104 tune on Tuesday, and waiting on T&T to begin

[adamjwilson]

2023 plans... just stopping adding to my build so I can get started

[jlaudio11]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Its getting pretty boring on the forum right now as it always does during the winter, so maybe we can talk about what everyone has planned for 2023. I'll start with mine, I still plan on changing out the TCM so we can control the TM and free up some Et. King thought I could see up to 2 to 3 tenths which would put me in the 9.60s on the stock Lt1 and fuel system. We will also upgrade the low side with a dual pump, just not sure which will use. Mike will be working on that for me. Also planning a new 2300 Toohighpsi lid and hopefully that will happen in January plus it will allow the 2300 owner that can't run Port Injection because stock 2300 lid is too tall for the hood to close. Also plan on a set of THPSI valve covers which are being released very soon and the billet T-stat housing with 180 T-stat. That's about it for me so let hear what other have planned. Go for it.

I haven't seen alot of people talking about it but a lower temp thermostat is definitely on my list with my sbe boost build. My theory is any cooler I can run the engine/cylinders the less heat/cylinder pressure and ideally not butting rings.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Very nice! Looking forward to seeing it all buttoned up!

You and me both! I'm curious to see what other people are running, timing-wise. I've found a few posts where people were running 25-27 on a similar set-up, but I'm going to be cautious, lol. The last thing I need is to break something...

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Stage 1 of my 2023 plans are all ordered up! BMR 15” rear conversion is on order and should be here early next week. I also ordered up Forgestar D5 Beadlocks in 15” size along with MT ET Street R in 325/50/15 from PK Auto Design (good guys). Forgestar is on back order so I won’t see those until late March which is fine anyway since we’re still frozen solid up here in New England.

Still need to get Stage 2 figured out (blower upgrade). Magnuson is so crappy to deal with and Whipple isn’t far behind.

HELLZ YEAH!!! That sounds like it's gonna stick good. That'll put that power down I shoulda' just got beadlocks, because these cheapo' 17s spin inside the ETs on the street... I should've also added some glue to the beads. Live and learn.

Originally Posted by JSH

Dyno 104 tune on Tuesday, and waiting on T&T to begin

Excellent. Is this with the 112?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by radz28

You and me both! I'm curious to see what other people are running, timing-wise. I've found a few posts where people were running 25-27 on a similar set-up, but I'm going to be cautious, lol. The last thing I need is to break something...



HELLZ YEAH!!! That sounds like it's gonna stick good. That'll put that power down I shoulda' just got beadlocks, because these cheapo' 17s spin inside the ETs on the street... I should've also added some glue to the beads. Live and learn.



Excellent. Is this with the 112?

You should be able to start around 22-23 degrees very safely on E and dial up from there. I’d guess 24-26 will be fine, especially on E70+.

I hope you’re right on the traction! Chopping .2-.4 off on my 60’ will do wonders for my quarter mile time.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

You should be able to start around 22-23 degrees very safely on E and dial up from there. I’d guess 24-26 will be fine, especially on E70+.

I hope you’re right on the traction! Chopping .2-.4 off on my 60’ will do wonders for my quarter mile time.

OK. That's about where I was planning on starting

I'm looking forward to your new times. That thing's a frickin beast

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by radz28

Well... I did it...

Ordered Mike's PI plates/controller/injectors and supporting mods' to support my E85 upgrade... And as everyone who's done business with Mike, I can now, directly, attest to the kind of great guy he is. He's so supportive.

So: DSX low-side fuel system ordered. All the plumbing and FF sensor from Summit. And sensor harness from Gen5dyi (since none of the plumbing in the kit will be used). In a few weeks my 15- YO and I will install these goodies. Hopefully he'll be as interested as he was when we did the 2650. lol

I had a feeling you were going to do it, I've known Mike since the 2016 LS Fest and he has treated me with respect, taught me a lot about tuning, hired me to work at Magnuson in 2018. Started tuning my 16ss after we ended up dumping the Canned Tune. He bent over backwards to make sure I got everything I needed to race for Magnuson, I got the 2nd 2650 that went out the door to make sure we were ready for the 2019 Camaro Fest. He and his son flew to last years LS Fest, wired the car in the Drury in Parking lot after I did blower and all port setup in my shop, no dyno time, just about 6 passes up and down I65 interstate tuning. First pass 10.34@135 flying blind, I mean what he's done for me is truly honorable, then he turned around and tuned it to a 9.86@142, who would have thunk the car would run close to that on a stock Lt1, Lt1 High and low side with just the addition of the JMS, a locked A10 trans with stock suspension except for Phastek lowering springs, bone stock exhaust, 3825 lbs with drag pack and 3925 with drag radial street setup. I never really drove my 16 SS on the street for about 2 year, maybe just a few logs. This car is really a docile street car that you'd never know makes over 700 rwhp, gets over 20 mpg on the highway on E65. Idles and drives like an NA car till you decide you want to go sideways at a 60 mph hit. Just a ride and it's really all because I've met and worked with some of the best people in the industry over my 55 years of drag racing. Mike didn't do it all, Brian at SCOL really helped in just having a used blower I could get my hands on, no used or new 2650s were out there at the time we did the build. So, if you deal with Mike you'll feel just like Radz does, a great experience, no BS, great quality in all their products. Dam that was long winded so sorry.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by radz28

Well... I did it...

Ordered Mike's PI plates/controller/injectors and supporting mods' to support my E85 upgrade... And as everyone who's done business with Mike, I can now, directly, attest to the kind of great guy he is. He's so supportive.

So: DSX low-side fuel system ordered. All the plumbing and FF sensor from Summit. And sensor harness from Gen5dyi (since none of the plumbing in the kit will be used). In a few weeks my 15- YO and I will install these goodies. Hopefully he'll be as interested as he was when we did the 2650. lol

Tuning yourself?

[radz28]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I had a feeling you were going to do it, I've known Mike since the 2016 LS Fest and he has treated me with respect, taught me a lot about tuning, hired me to work at Magnuson in 2018. Started tuning my 16ss after we ended up dumping the Canned Tune. He bent over backwards to make sure I got everything I needed to race for Magnuson, I got the 2nd 2650 that went out the door to make sure we were ready for the 2019 Camaro Fest. He and his son flew to last years LS Fest, wired the car in the Drury in Parking lot after I did blower and all port setup in my shop, no dyno time, just about 6 passes up and down I65 interstate tuning. First pass 10.34@135 flying blind, I mean what he's done for me is truly honorable, then he turned around and tuned it to a 9.86@142, who would have thunk the car would run close to that on a stock Lt1, Lt1 High and low side with just the addition of the JMS, a locked A10 trans with stock suspension except for Phastek lowering springs, bone stock exhaust, 3825 lbs with drag pack and 3925 with drag radial street setup. I never really drove my 16 SS on the street for about 2 year, maybe just a few logs. This car is really a docile street car that you'd never know makes over 700 rwhp, gets over 20 mpg on the highway on E65. Idles and drives like an NA car till you decide you want to go sideways at a 60 mph hit. Just a ride and it's really all because I've met and worked with some of the best people in the industry over my 55 years of drag racing. Mike didn't do it all, Brian at SCOL really helped in just having a used blower I could get my hands on, no used or new 2650s were out there at the time we did the build. So, if you deal with Mike you'll feel just like Radz does, a great experience, no BS, great quality in all their products. Dam that was long winded so sorry.

I think you're trying to challenge my long winded posts

You're right though. He doesn't have to do what he does, and especially for free. He seems like a busy man, but offers so much help, just because he makes time to. Like many of a lot of us, in this Community. People like you guys are what make it worth while to spend time here.

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Tuning yourself?

Affirmative. That's the plan. Some generous people here have helped me, and I've gotten some help elsewhere, but most of the groundwork for this is already in place. I've been studying as much as my Google 'fu has been able to conjure, so we'll see. What I'm most apprehensive about is just the total timing limit, and I feel like enough people hae confirmed mid-20s is probably it. What I'm struggling more with, at this point, is trying to figure out how much of the OEM modifiers to use. When I got help, early on, most of the cam and spark modifiers were either retarded or mostly turned off. It makes sense, because those modifiers can create moving targets when trying to fine-tune, but I'm dubious of some of those are super-critical (e.g. if I'm getting rid of cam retard around cruising, I won't need to add ignition timing in those areas for more torque). I see other calibrators (like professionals - not the likes of me) leave a lot of those controls for a set-up like mine, so I'm conflicted.

Anyways - yes. I'm planning to try myself. I am trying a different method of compensating for the fuel from the PI. It seems like most people are pulling the DI MAF curve down, and playing with VTT/PE/sometimes VVE, but a training video I watched showed a way to pull fuel flow from the DI, under certain conditions, and NOT mess with anything airflow-related. The idea is to maintain "proper" TORQUE calculations, instead of buff VTT in the necessary areas. I say "proper" because that's what the training alleges (so NO disrespect to ANYONE else using other methods, because I don't know if this will work. Maybe I'll report back if anyone's interested, but we'll see. If it doesn't work, I know what Mike's been saying, and will use that It seems strange no one else seems to be using this method, but there's probably a good reason, lol. I'm just disagreeable, so I have to try it.

Any suggestions?

[jlaudio11]

Originally Posted by radz28

I think you're trying to challenge my long winded posts

You're right though. He doesn't have to do what he does, and especially for free. He seems like a busy man, but offers so much help, just because he makes time to. Like many of a lot of us, in this Community. People like you guys are what make it worth while to spend time here.



Affirmative. That's the plan. Some generous people here have helped me, and I've gotten some help elsewhere, but most of the groundwork for this is already in place. I've been studying as much as my Google 'fu has been able to conjure, so we'll see. What I'm most apprehensive about is just the total timing limit, and I feel like enough people hae confirmed mid-20s is probably it. What I'm struggling more with, at this point, is trying to figure out how much of the OEM modifiers to use. When I got help, early on, most of the cam and spark modifiers were either retarded or mostly turned off. It makes sense, because those modifiers can create moving targets when trying to fine-tune, but I'm dubious of some of those are super-critical (e.g. if I'm getting rid of cam retard around cruising, I won't need to add ignition timing in those areas for more torque). I see other calibrators (like professionals - not the likes of me) leave a lot of those controls for a set-up like mine, so I'm conflicted.

Anyways - yes. I'm planning to try myself. I am trying a different method of compensating for the fuel from the PI. It seems like most people are pulling the DI MAF curve down, and playing with VTT/PE/sometimes VVE, but a training video I watched showed a way to pull fuel flow from the DI, under certain conditions, and NOT mess with anything airflow-related. The idea is to maintain "proper" TORQUE calculations, instead of buff VTT in the necessary areas. I say "proper" because that's what the training alleges (so NO disrespect to ANYONE else using other methods, because I don't know if this will work. Maybe I'll report back if anyone's interested, but we'll see. If it doesn't work, I know what Mike's been saying, and will use that It seems strange no one else seems to be using this method, but there's probably a good reason, lol. I'm just disagreeable, so I have to try it.

Any suggestions?

Good luck and if you could report back what you've found. I'm also tuning my car myself and have somewhat matured so to speak in my tuning from "just get it to do what I want" to utilizing factory strategies effectively for the same result. I'm still in the build process of my turbo setup but i'll be getting to the tuning stage soon.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Its getting pretty boring on the forum right now as it always does during the winter, so maybe we can talk about what everyone has planned for 2023. I'll start with mine, I still plan on changing out the TCM so we can control the TM and free up some Et. King thought I could see up to 2 to 3 tenths which would put me in the 9.60s on the stock Lt1 and fuel system. We will also upgrade the low side with a dual pump, just not sure which will use. Mike will be working on that for me. Also planning a new 2300 Toohighpsi lid and hopefully that will happen in January plus it will allow the 2300 owner that can't run Port Injection because stock 2300 lid is too tall for the hood to close. Also plan on a set of THPSI valve covers which are being released very soon and the billet T-stat housing with 180 T-stat. That's about it for me so let hear what other have planned. Go for it.

Myself I have purchased the West Michigan Automotive Technology LT4 conversion kit and added the bigger intercooler. Picked up the LT4 high side fuel pump and injectors. Got lucky talking to a Southern California shop that I sold my LT2 manifold with direct NOS injection and I got one of his customers LT4 ZL1 SC with only 800 miles on it. So waiting to ship to Kong to get Xported, still need to pick up 103mm TB and a ZL1 Roto fab intake. Also have to add Meth, I am toying with the idea of a N gauge so I can switch tunes. One for street and one for track do use NOS because I still have the system except the direct injection manifold. Could go single injection into air intake or save about 2-3 grand and get the Nitrous Express lid with direct injection plumbing already set-up. Hopefully everything together and tuned for April/May. I see your plan nice, I am also thinking of getting a higher lid for that extra 30 RWHP.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Myself I have purchased the West Michigan Automotive Technology LT4 conversion kit and added the bigger intercooler. Picked up the LT4 high side fuel pump and injectors. Got lucky talking to a Southern California shop that I sold my LT2 manifold with direct NOS injection and I got one of his customers LT4 ZL1 SC with only 800 miles on it. So waiting to ship to Kong to get Xported, still need to pick up 103mm TB and a ZL1 Roto fab intake. Also have to add Meth, I am toying with the idea of a N gauge so I can switch tunes. One for street and one for track do use NOS because I still have the system except the direct injection manifold. Could go single injection into air intake or save about 2-3 grand and get the Nitrous Express lid with direct injection plumbing already set-up. Hopefully everything together and tuned for April/May. I see your plan nice, I am also thinking of getting a higher lid for that extra 30 RWHP.

Just so u know the n gauge will not flash a 6th gen ss. I still really like it because I can set the lights to show knock, easy to see while normal driving.