[Jeff Davis]

I got some water in my trunk a while back, 2018 1SS non bose. I dried everything out really well and everything works except for the stereo. My suspicion is that the factory amp has shorted out. I checked the 30amp fuse and it looks good. Does anyone know what else I should check before I start replacing stuff?

thanks,

[keep_hope_alive]

you could remove the amp and open it up (physically) to look for signs of water ingress. What are the exact symptoms? Just no sound or scratchy sound but the screen works fine?

[Jeff Davis]

I've got no sound at all.

[ctrlz]

I would pull the amp and open it. You need to really look things over and make sure it dried. Thinks like mildew and small corrosive bridges can lead to failure. Hopefully it is not all soldered together and you can actually see both sides of the PCB. Sometimes these are really connected to the heatsink in such a way you can't get them apart.
If you open it, take some pictures. i don't think anyone has posted what the driver IC's are for the various amps. Once you know the IC you can go to the datasheet and the wattage will be listed.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

I third the "Open the amp" suggestion. I had a basement flood last year here in Detroit and I lost two circuit boards - one in the furnace and one in an elliptical. It was very obvious that the board was blown, and you could tell just looking at the traces on the solder side. If you can't tell, post up pics of both sides of the board. It is most likely shot though.

-Geoff

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

It is most likely shot though.

-Geoff

This amp likely has internal short protection, which may be why it shut down. It would not surprise me if there is still moisture inside the amp.

[Chutzpah]

First I’d try and plug and unplug the connectors multiple times, maybe there some corrosion in there. If that doesn’t work, I’d just buy an amp on the cheap, https://www.ebay.com/itm/23348096584...Cclp%3A2047675

[stook2001]

Not to hijack the OPs post but I have a similar situation with a 2016 Bose Amp caused by the same issue. In my case, the whole system is more or less working except for the front driver's side dash speaker, I think. That speaker is putting out muffled, distorted sound. This whole issue happened months ago so the trunk and components are dry. I had it at the dealer for some other issues hoping they could diagnose this on their computer but apparently not. Instead, they wanted to throw parts at it, which I can do myself.

From what I am reading on GM Part sites the Amp requires some type of special programming. Has anyone tried swapping amps? Is this really true or will this at least confirm for me if it's the amp or the speaker that's blown? Unfortunately, there's not a great path forward here since the amps cost like $400 and the speaker that I am having issues with is the most difficult one to access. The amp is comparatively easy to deal with so it's the easier place to start swapping parts... if it's a useful test without dealer programming!

[Zr8000]

Originally Posted by stook2001

Not to hijack the OPs post but I have a similar situation with a 2016 Bose Amp caused by the same issue. In my case, the whole system is more or less working except for the front driver's side dash speaker, I think. That speaker is putting out muffled, distorted sound. This whole issue happened months ago so the trunk and components are dry. I had it at the dealer for some other issues hoping they could diagnose this on their computer but apparently not. Instead, they wanted to throw parts at it, which I can do myself.

From what I am reading on GM Part sites the Amp requires some type of special programming. Has anyone tried swapping amps? Is this really true or will this at least confirm for me if it's the amp or the speaker that's blown? Unfortunately, there's not a great path forward here since the amps cost like $400 and the speaker that I am having issues with is the most difficult one to access. The amp is comparatively easy to deal with so it's the easier place to start swapping parts... if it's a useful test without dealer programming!

Take it to a good car stereo shop. They have test tools for checking signal. Or buy a cheap walmart amp and 1/2 ass wire it in. If you get sound with the after market amp you, factory one is bad. Then re turn the cheap amp to Walmart

[gblaue]

Originally Posted by stook2001

Not to hijack the OPs post but I have a similar situation with a 2016 Bose Amp caused by the same issue. In my case, the whole system is more or less working except for the front driver's side dash speaker, I think. That speaker is putting out muffled, distorted sound. This whole issue happened months ago so the trunk and components are dry. I had it at the dealer for some other issues hoping they could diagnose this on their computer but apparently not. Instead, they wanted to throw parts at it, which I can do myself.

From what I am reading on GM Part sites the Amp requires some type of special programming. Has anyone tried swapping amps? Is this really true or will this at least confirm for me if it's the amp or the speaker that's blown? Unfortunately, there's not a great path forward here since the amps cost like $400 and the speaker that I am having issues with is the most difficult one to access. The amp is comparatively easy to deal with so it's the easier place to start swapping parts... if it's a useful test without dealer programming!

PM me. I can help you out.

[IceGoaliePaul]

I had my amp go swimming too however I am an electronics tech so I did take mine apart and take a look at it. The main issue is that while the amp is conformal coated which mostly protects it from water they masked off the coating around the edge and at the amplifiers so they could be connected/heatsinked to the case. I ended up taking the amp chips off and then repairing all the vias in the vicinity that had corroded. I was eventually successful in making the amp work on all channels, however, the amp would refuse to go to sleep when the car shutdown it would just wake itself every 30 seconds which would drain the battery in 48 hours. I ended up just getting it replaced under warranty at the dealership. I am however now constantly paranoid about rain.

[fierro14]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

I would pull the amp and open it. You need to really look things over and make sure it dried. Thinks like mildew and small corrosive bridges can lead to failure. Hopefully it is not all soldered together and you can actually see both sides of the PCB. Sometimes these are really connected to the heatsink in such a way you can't get them apart.
If you open it, take some pictures. i don't think anyone has posted what the driver IC's are for the various amps. Once you know the IC you can go to the datasheet and the wattage will be listed.

Hi guys, here are some pics of the Bose amplifier.
My car (2017 Camaro SS) has only 30 seconds o sound and then nothing.
I¨ve checked the amplifier and there are no signs of water or humidity.
Sorry for my english, i¨m from Argentina

[ctrlz]

Hopefully you PM'd gblaue like he suggested. he's the expert. If it plays for 30 seconds and then mutes, he may know what might cause that.

My (amateur) assessment of that board is you've got a switchmode power supply on one side (the side with the donut), and signal processing on the other side. One thing not shown is the parts vertically attached to the heatsinks. Those will be your driver IC's.

[gblaue]

I see nothing that would cause the amplifier to stop working. If there was any water intrusion, it would stand out like a sore thumb. We soak these amps in 95% humidity salt fog for 1000 hours during validation testing. They come out looking like a salt lick and still function normally. The conformal coating looks to be completely intact. It looks like that you wiped off the heatsink grease on the right power amp. Make sure to put some back on. That would cause that power amp to thermally limit, or shut down. Take a look inside the connector pin on both the amp side, and harness side for any kind of "growths".

CTRLZ, you are right about the signal processing side. The big donut is a battery input filter. It keeps noise put of the power supply of the amplifier. We call it Power Supply Rejection (PSRR). If noise, such as alternator whine, gets into the power supply pins of the power amplifier, some may pass through the output FETs. Garbage in, garbage out with 26dB of gain.