[AMOR]

Hi guys, i'm new to this forum.
Coming from a BMW F80 platform, on which I did 15+ track days at various locations. Car was a 6-speed manual, Competition model on Bilstein coilovers and running a full catless stage 2 tune @ around 600 crank hp. Here is a video of that Bavarian beauty in action at Pocono Raceway:


Gradually decided to move to Camaro SS 1LE, as it is considered a much more capable track car out of the box, and also not as expensive to run, maintain and modify.

I've read through the forum carefully and there's lot's of useful info. Still have a few questions to the track rats out there.

1. This car is track ready out of the factory. Just need to change oil to 0W-40 Mobil 1 and brake fluid correct? Can the car be daily driven with that oil also? As for brake fluid, I was running Motul RBF600 on my M3 and plan to use the same here. The stock brake pads are made by Brembo or Ferodo? Found conflicting info. I was running EBC yellow stuff previously. But as far as i've read the stock pads on the Camaro 1LE can handle track abuse just fine?

2. What is the warranty policy of GM? If i'm planning to install E85 flex fuel kit and a CAI together with a tune to accommodate E85, will those changes void warranty? Do not plan on doing headers, camshafts and those kind of heavy modifications.

3. Suspension seems pretty sophisticated on these cars. I found a list of GM performance parts here and was wondering which of those you guys recommend getting? I assume the strut tower brace for a start? Any benefit of lowering springs or factory springs are fine?
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/c...er&Per_Page=-1

4. The stock SC3 tires are comparable in grip to R compound tires from what I read. I was running Nitto NT01 275/35 R18 square on my M3. I'm thinking of keeping the stock wheels on SC3 tires and getting a second set of Apex wheels in 18 or 19 size to install a 100TW or less semi-slicks for dry days and competitive events. Which tires and wheels combination is preferred for track duty on the Camaro?

5. Last but not least, my plan is to lighten the car slightly, but without stripping the interior entirely. I don't plan to daily this car, but would still want to enjoy it on weekends driving around city. So I guess rear seat delete, gut the trunk, install Sparco QRT-R seats with a harness bar by STUDIORSR.

Would appreciate any advice or comments. Thanks again!

[2SS Capt]

The car comes with Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP Formula from the factory, but make sure you do the proper break in and fluid changes prior to tracking the car...

[AMOR]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

The car comes with Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP Formula from the factory, but make sure you do the proper break in and fluid changes prior to tracking the car...

I see, so that oil is OK to use moving forward for track duty? I read somewhere that oil needs to be changed to something else for running on track. As for break in, that is self explanatory. I'll do a 1500 mile break in, change oil and dif fluid. Then the same after first track day.

[weemus]

So...
1. Brake fluid is a must and I recommend Castro’s SRF. Only needs changed once a year (as a precaution) vs bleeding after/before each event with RBF. I’m lazy. Diff fluid most definitely as it already has metallic in it from break in. Otherwise I change oil as needed and ALL fluids once a year at that track day load of 15 days a year.

2. Don’t do it. The ecu tune will be picked up should anything go wrong and your warranty will be void. Dealer will be asked for files and even if they are your friend if you go in for an engine warranty claim GM will find out. Keep the warranty. . It will be swifter than your old M3 in everything but the straightest line. If you find you need more power trade it in for a ZL1 with a warranty...

3. Run it stock. There is a thread but the strut bar was left off at the factory due to the weight not being worth the gain. Lowering springs are for looks, it will negatively affect the 1LE handling. It works so well post up after your first track day stating what you didn’t like and possible solutions, the list will be rather short.

4. 18s for cost pure and simple. Other thread and Apex will sort out the nitty gritty but a true square setup is ideal for an arrive and drive track day peeps. I’m working on this in 2021 as well but it took me several years until I felt like I needed more front tire and the ability to fully rotate.

5. Ask NickyRacerBoy amongst others. This is a MUCH better idea than #2.

In short run it with #1 complete. It’s pretty damn good stock.

[AMOR]

Thanks man! Appreciate your response.
The M3 was not so track ready from factory, so I guess GM really upped their game on this one. I’ll take your advise, do a couple track days completely stock and then see how it goes. Thanks again!

[Dabjbr]

Came from BMW too. Not an M3 but a 335 with many M upgrades.

Although the BMW was a lot of fun, it wasn’t nearly as durable and needed a lot of love and money. Tracked the 1le twice so far... such a fun track car and needs very little in return.

Anyway.... onto questions.
1. I run SRF. Works great. Pads have been good too but I might ‘upgrade’ once the stockers are worn.

2. Haven’t cuz I hear warranty concerns.

3. My car came with the strut brace. I can’t say whether or not it makes a difference but many pass. I keep eyeing a set of lowering springs like BMR or equivalent. They only lower by 3/4” but I haven’t pulled the trigger. I don’t want to negatively affect MRC. It’s really just for looks but I still want to do it. Lol. If you want better feel, most suggest ZLE solid rear cradle bushings. I have a set waiting to install one I make up my mind on springs. Oh, track alignment is recommended. If done at the dealer, ask them to max out. Otherwise, they’ll stop at -2.0 front camber.

4. Good thinking. May do the same. The stockers are surprisingly effective and relatively cheap though.

5. No opinion

PS, the 1le is quick on track but it will not be as quick on the straights compared to a tuned m3. This will be especially true when WOT in 3rd, 4th gear. That said, it’ll handle long sessions without fail and is better suited for track Vs the M IMO.

[evanescent03]

I find it interesting that you are from Miami and found yourself at Pocono racetrack? That's quite a drive for a rather mediocre track (it was where I experienced my first track day when I lived in Philly, but haven't felt compelled to go back).

i had a '15 DCT F80 and '16 6MT F80 that i tracked several times .. ran NT01s also which were great tires and made it feel like the traction control was on (when it was off). the cars were quick (quicker on back straight of COTA and NCM but also had the Burger tune), but just lacked the drama of the Camaro. As a dual purpose family hauler/track car, it's still the best. I think we are going to get a G80 as backup track car for my wife to use and also to be used as a daily driver.

i made the switch to the Camaro when Motor Trend said the American "Muscle" was more fun to drive .. immediately stepping into the camaro i missed the refinement of the M3 but appreciated the much more firm feel of the clutch and shifter .. and i for sure appreciated the V8 rumble. I actually cycled through 3 camaros (SS, and two 1LEs) over the past 5 years and every time I think about trading for a Porsche I get cold feet... the 1LE is THAT good (i've driven GT3s on track, so i know they're incredible, better in many ways but the fun factor in the 1LE is amongst the best out there, IMO).

Read through the performance supplement (link below) and question advice that deviates from it. Pay special attention to oil, diff fluid exchange, track alignment. I've followed it and my car has performed flawlessly over ~15 days at Mid Ohio, Pitt Race, NCM, COTA, Laguna Seca, Sonoma and in the wicked heat of Thunderhill.

Alignment: Track alignment (most shops ask for alignment bolt, i got one from home depot so the alignment shop could dial it in, lots of discussion on this so search around the forum, more of a challenge for folks than it should be, it seems)

Tires: I get about 6 days out of my Goodyear SC3 tires before cording them

Pads: I started using Powerstop Track Day pads early on because they were very inexpensive and got good reviews.. I've stuck with them because they have been very reliable and effective with the stock tires, and also cheap. I get about 4 days on them.

Issues i've had: minimal. look up fender well rub on the forum and dust boots. i got a wear spot in my rear driver side fender well and it's a common complaint but easy fix. the dust boots get vaporized quickly and i'm still trying to figure out what my solution will be for those... considering AP racing upgrade but i tend to keep cars < 2 years max so i've been putting off any changes for the time being.

Before ripping your car apart too quickly, I would definitely do a track weekend with it in near-stock form and just see what you think. resist the urge, ha!

Performance supplement:
https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...supplement.pdf

i think you'll find this a very useful forum, look forward to hearing what you think!

[cmfhsu]

1. This car is track ready out of the factory. Just need to change oil to 0W-40 Mobil 1 and brake fluid correct? Can the car be daily driven with that oil also? As for brake fluid, I was running Motul RBF600 on my M3 and plan to use the same here. The stock brake pads are made by Brembo or Ferodo? Found conflicting info. I was running EBC yellow stuff previously. But as far as i've read the stock pads on the Camaro 1LE can handle track abuse just fine?

Make sure you get the Mobil1 ESP 0W-40, not the European formula or others. This is the only Mobil1 oil validated for dual use and if you bought your car new, it's likely what's already in your engine.

Stock pads are made by Ferodo and double-branded to Brembo, then GM/AC Delco. Stock pads are great for stock cars; soon as you get wider / grippier tires, suspension mods, etc. you may have to upgrade. I would stick with stock until you start getting fade - these pads are SUPER gentle on rotors & caliper seals in my experience which I love. I drive Advanced pace at Lime Rock & Monticello with a 140/150mph braking zone and the stock pads hold up great.

2. What is the warranty policy of GM? If i'm planning to install E85 flex fuel kit and a CAI together with a tune to accommodate E85, will those changes void warranty? Do not plan on doing headers, camshafts and those kind of heavy modifications.

I'm staying as stock as humanly possible until my warranty runs out. Nobody else offers to cover damage incurred during track day abuse, so I'm not giving that up. Depends on your dealer, but it's likely to be an easy reason to deny warranty coverage.

3. Suspension seems pretty sophisticated on these cars. I found a list of GM performance parts here and was wondering which of those you guys recommend getting? I assume the strut tower brace for a start? Any benefit of lowering springs or factory springs are fine?
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/c...er&Per_Page=-1

I'm a pretty big fan of the way the 1LE drives. The stock magnetic shocks play really well with the stock spring rate - there is almost no reason for me to go any stiffer with the almost all-stock setup I'm running. I run a BMR rear subframe lockout kit & I think it helps with the feeling of rotation while on track.

4. The stock SC3 tires are comparable in grip to R compound tires from what I read. I was running Nitto NT01 275/35 R18 square on my M3. I'm thinking of keeping the stock wheels on SC3 tires and getting a second set of Apex wheels in 18 or 19 size to install a 100TW or less semi-slicks for dry days and competitive events. Which tires and wheels combination is preferred for track duty on the Camaro?

I don't really have much comment on this, since I've only run stock wheels & stock tires. Stock Supercar 3 tires are becoming the preferred tire everywhere (I've even seen a guy in a dedicated track Cayman running them and they have become big in the McLaren community ) and they don't require any suspension / brake upgrades. They don't overheat super easy on track and with the size of these tires, I don't have any uber desire to go grippier.

5. Last but not least, my plan is to lighten the car slightly, but without stripping the interior entirely. I don't plan to daily this car, but would still want to enjoy it on weekends driving around city. So I guess rear seat delete, gut the trunk, install Sparco QRT-R seats with a harness bar by STUDIORSR.

I kept the rear seats in & used the Schroth Rallye 3 bolt in harness. Lets me keep my stock airbags, 3 point belts, & seats and I can actually use the rear of my car while hauling stuff to the track. Lots and lots of arguments here in the forum about the tradeoffs of something like this vs a half cage vs a full cage. You'll have to make the risk decisions yourself.

[kropscamaro16]

good choice sir!

[nasbagoat]

I just looked this up out of curiosity, how does that 3 point even work?

Originally Posted by cmfhsu

I kept the rear seats in & used the Schroth Rallye 3 bolt in harness. Lets me keep my stock airbags, 3 point belts, & seats and I can actually use the rear of my car while hauling stuff to the track. Lots and lots of arguments here in the forum about the tradeoffs of something like this vs a half cage vs a full cage. You'll have to make the risk decisions yourself.[/COLOR]

[weemus]

Evansvent03,
There is a thread but Stoptech sells grey silicone dust seals and they are actually part of the Centric caliper rebuild kit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=506&jsn=506

See: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...light=Silicone
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=587454

Back on topic I agree to stick with the OEM track alignment at first. It’s good but as a daily going from -2.0 camber and +.05 toe to -2.7 camber and zero toe helped on tire wear greatly. On the track running toe for, what a 2 mile track on at 2.x min lap for a 20 min session for a weekend is like 160 miles. Hard driving but running 3-5k on the street with toe scrubs the inside of the tire off. Tires will last considerably longer zeroing out front toe unless it’s a track only car. You really need to keep the toe in at the rear. It sound like the OP wants a track only toy, then no problem. Evansvent03 it sounds like you daily as well. If so any front toe is prematurely killing your tires. We are effectively daily driving on a “track only” alignment. Zero that toe and dial in -2.6-2.7 negative camber and performance will be similar but the tires will last longer.

[weemus]

Originally Posted by AMOR

I see, so that oil is OK to use moving forward for track duty? I read somewhere that oil needs to be changed to something else for running on track. As for break in, that is self explanatory. I'll do a 1500 mile break in, change oil and dif fluid. Then the same after first track day.

To clarify the old OEM oil needed changed to the “Vette” track duty oil. They at some point made the required track day oil the standard OEM fill in the 1LE.

But I will add that some dealers substitute, so you must request it and only it. Let them know you track the car and it’s required. Remember we have a warranty at track and they will check things over more carefully in my experience as you are truly using the vehicle as intended. Isn’t that nice.

[cmfhsu]

Originally Posted by nasbagoat

I just looked this up out of curiosity, how does that 3 point even work?

It's a "four point" harness that bolts to the rear seat belt anchor point in the c pillar. Then you route it through the headrest and over your shoulders. The belt that goes over your shoulder only has one offset mount behind you unlike a true harness, but Schroth seems to have figured something out, because it seems to be pretty popular.

[cmfhsu]

Originally Posted by weemus

You really need to keep the toe out in the rear.

Toe in. Toe out in the back is going to give you some weird effects - "the rear end never grips back up", says my drifter friend.