[sr71bb]

Ok Guys. I just installed the part listed below:

https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...-rod-ends.html

The issue with this part is is regards to clearance with the inside barrel of the wheel.

On my 19 inch APEX wheels, I had to take two of the spacers out so that the tie rod nut and threaded bolt WOULD NOT not make contact with the inside barrel of the wheel.

On my 18 inch APEX wheels, even with those two small spacers removed, it will be necessary to run a THINNER nut and to cut some of the threads off the bolt to allow for proper clearance.

I will update this thread with PICS once we do that. SPL PARTS is aware of the problem and they sent me a Center Lock nut that was .2 of an inch THINNER than the Nylon Lock nut that comes standard with this part. I will use this nut and then cut off a few threads off the end of the bolt.

Pics to follow in next few days.

Obviously the whole purpose of using this part is so that the TOE IN and TOE OUT setting will NOT change due to suspension travel.

[sr71bb]

Ok as mentioned there are TWO issues with making this part work with 19 inch and 18 in wheels.

I mentioned in the previous post that SPL PARTS sent me a THINNER center lock nut BUT it still wasnt thin enough to provide proper clearance so I asked AMP to source me out a MUCH thinner NYLOCK nut.

If you are using 19 inch wheels, you can retain the STOCK NYLOCK nut that comes with the bumpsteer kit but you will need to NOT use TWO of the small washers.

The FIRST pic shows you how that looks on my 19 inch wheels with the spacing between the end of the thread and the inside barrel of the wheel. Looks like maybe 1/2 inch clearance. Notice that the thing that is CLOSEST the inside barrel of the wheel is the threads because they protrude slightly thru the NYLOCK nut.

Now if you are using this on an 18 inch wheel, then you will need to BOTH shorten the threaded portion of the bolt AND you will need to use a MUCH thinner NYLOCK nut.

The SECOND picture shows me holding the original NYLOCK nut next to the newly installed THINNER nylock nut. You notice it is about 1/3 the size of the NYLOCK nut that comes with the kit.

The THIRD picture shows about how much of the thread on the bolt was cut off so that it jus BARELY protrudes thru the new THINNER NYLOCK nut.

The Fourth picture shows the newly installed nut WITHOUT the wheel installed.

The FIFTH picture shows the clearance NOW with my 18 inch wheels.

The SPECS on the NYLOCK nut are 5/8ths by 18 threads. Thanks to SPL PARTS for the tech assistance and to AMP for actually doing the grunt work including sourcing the NYLOCK nut.

[20Bluezl1]

Wow I have all SPL Parts on the rear and was planning on doing the front. I'm a little upset at SPL as there parts are great quality and fit perfectly. I'm assuming they will need to fix this issue.

[olblue75]

I’m sure SPL designed there parts using the stock 19/20 inch wheels not custom 19 or 18 so not really there fault. It’s on the end user to know this an make a decision about the inherent risks/mods required.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by olblue75

I’m sure SPL designed there parts using the stock 19/20 inch wheels not custom 19 or 18 so not really there fault. It’s on the end user to know this an make a decision about the inherent risks/mods required.

Yea but SPL races a gen 6 and I'm sure ghey are not using oem 20" wheels. And plus OP still had issues with 19" wheels.

[Dabjbr]

Wow that’s super close even after the modification.

Great, informative post. ��

I have my first SPL parts, rear toe rods, on the way. Hope they’re as beneficial as the forum suggests.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

Wow that’s super close even after the modification.

Great, informative post. ��

I have my first SPL parts, rear toe rods, on the way. Hope they’re as beneficial as the forum suggests.

I love all my SPL rear suspension parts they are amazing and your alignment tech will be happy.

[kropscamaro16]

i have a full kit on my car and im looking at getting 19s next year so i appreciate this post did you happen to talk to turner over there? maybe they can add a note to the website

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have a full kit on my car and im looking at getting 19s next year so i appreciate this post did you happen to talk to turner over there? maybe they can add a note to the website

They definitely should I run 19" at the track so I would have that issue.

[kropscamaro16]

yea i have 20s on my car and so does the spl 1le camaro but i know plenty of guys that run 19s so thats weird...

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by olblue75

I’m sure SPL designed there parts using the stock 19/20 inch wheels not custom 19 or 18 so not really there fault. It’s on the end user to know this an make a decision about the inherent risks/mods required.

The issue after I talked to the engineer at SPL is the is that the GM design doesnt allow for alot of room below the lock nut anyway. I DID use the NYLOCK that came with the KIT on the APEX 19's with no issues once I removed two of the small washers.

A custom 19 inch wheel regardless of brand is going to have the same distance to the inside barrel of the wheel as a GM OE wheel does so whether or not you are running a aftermarket 19" wheel is irrelevant.

SPL has not been making parts for our cars nearly as long as they have other manufacturers so that's always going to be a learning process.

To make the EXISTING Bumpsteer kit instantly compatible with 18 inch wheels , all they would have to do is make the threaded end of the bolt SHORTER and then supply a thinner nylock nut like what we used.

SPL PARTS are aircraft quality parts and they are simply the BEST suspension parts you can buy PERIOD.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have a full kit on my car and im looking at getting 19s next year so i appreciate this post did you happen to talk to turner over there? maybe they can add a note to the website

YES Krops, I did talk to Turner. He was very helpful He said that they had documented that there would be issues especially with 18 inch wheels so it WAS NOT a surprise to them at all. I sent them a link to this thread and also PICS like what I have posted here.

[sr71bb]

I doubt that this matter to many of us track rats but for those that are unaware, using alot of these higher quality beefier suspension parts WILL RESULT in you hearing more suspension noises. ANYTHING that has for instance a HEIM joint in it like these tie rod ends WILL result in a NOISER suspension. Same thing goes when you replace rubber mounts with DELRIN or SOLID mounts. CAMBER plates as well produce their own set of noises under certain conditions.

If that type of thing REALLY bothers you than simply stay with the stock parts. What IS important is be be able to discern the normal noises from those that require your attention .

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

I doubt that this matter to many of us track rats but for those that are unaware, using alot of these higher quality beefier suspension parts WILL RESULT in you hearing more suspension noises. ANYTHING that has for instance a HEIM joint in it like these tie rod ends WILL result in a NOISER suspension. Same thing goes when you replace rubber mounts with DELRIN or SOLID mounts. CAMBER plates as well produce their own set of noises under certain conditions.

If that type of thing REALLY bothers you than simply stay with the stock parts. What IS important is be be able to discern the normal noises from those that require your attention .

haha yea i have a full custom suspension mcs 1 way with full spl parts kit and vorshlag camber plates but i swear its not that bad my old cobalt ss was alot nosier i had full koni yellow with springs and swaybars and solid bushings in front/rear and it was always loud