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Old 02-05-2017, 09:01 AM   #1
camaroaddiction
 
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Can't remove rear axle from diff! HELP!

Got the passenger side out with a pry bar but the driver side won't come out! I've got a 2010 ss and I'm looking to put DSS axles in but this damn drivers side axle won't come out. Any tricks guys? Thanks!
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:05 AM   #2
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You have to give it a really good tug. Make sure you are coming straight out. Yor should feel the cv joint kind of feel a little springy feeling, then it should get hard again and kind of clunk if I rember correctly.
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:25 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS View Post
You have to give it a really good tug. Make sure you are coming straight out. Yor should feel the cv joint kind of feel a little springy feeling, then it should get hard again and kind of clunk if I rember correctly.
I even tried using a slide hammer to get it off and its still stuck on
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:29 PM   #4
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Yeah something is wrong if a prybar won't do it. Clip may be broke.
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Old 02-05-2017, 08:46 PM   #5
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Bo might be wright about the clip??
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:49 PM   #6
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Isn't it neat when the OP doesn't come back to explain how they solved the problem? I'm having the same issue.
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:10 AM   #7
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I had the same issue. The cheap ass pry par I was using would flex a little so I couldn't get a good pop on it. Once I switched to one that wouldn't flex it popped out. Not sure if that is your issue, just sharing my experience.
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:48 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Matty Ice View Post
I had the same issue. The cheap ass pry par I was using would flex a little so I couldn't get a good pop on it. Once I switched to one that wouldn't flex it popped out. Not sure if that is your issue, just sharing my experience.
I wish it was as easy as that. I've tried every pry bar in the inventory with no luck. I still can't get the stub out of the driver's side. IT will easily go in and out a few millimeters, but it stops dead when it hits the c-clip.



I decided that maybe I can hit it from the other side, so I removed the PS axle. That one came out on my second attempt with the pry bar:



I can see the other axle, and I tried to use a 12" long 3/8 extension to knock it out from the passenger side with no luck. This is getting old. I'm thinking I'll just pull the entire center section and deal with it on the bench.
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Tuned by GPI
McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
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Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:30 PM   #9
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Just a thought and you probably tried it, perhaps try turning/spinning whats left of the shaft into other positions and prying/pushing it out. Maybe if you get it in just the right spot it will pop loose.
GL and please try to remember and post how it goes.
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:00 PM   #10
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There is a tool, which is a slide hammer with a CV shaft attachment that may be of help. Most people use a prybar, but taking a chance damaging a boot or the shaft itself. If you only have a prybar, you can pry outword and use a hammer to tap on the prybar as you push.
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:03 PM   #11
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FYI, some of you may be tempted to remove the C-clip before reassembly. This clip is what prevent the shaft from popping out when turning and the suspension is loaded to one side or the other. This is especially true for front wheel drive cars where the steering angles change much more drastically when turning. The rear however, isnt as prone to this but it can still happen.
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tajefe Couple View Post
Just a thought and you probably tried it, perhaps try turning/spinning whats left of the shaft into other positions and prying/pushing it out. Maybe if you get it in just the right spot it will pop loose.
GL and please try to remember and post how it goes.
yeah, I've tried it in just about every position of the clock. I'm going to try to pound it out from the passenger side again tonight. I'll keep trying to rotate it, hoping I can find the magic spot. Maybe I can avoid removing the entire diff.
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GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband
Tuned by GPI
McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G8One2 View Post
There is a tool, which is a slide hammer with a CV shaft attachment that may be of help. Most people use a prybar, but taking a chance damaging a boot or the shaft itself. If you only have a prybar, you can pry outword and use a hammer to tap on the prybar as you push.
I tried to find a puller on Amazon, but the ones I saw were all for import cars with smaller CV joints. Since I can pound directly on the shaft from the passenger side, i don't think a slide hammer would work any better.
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GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband
Tuned by GPI
McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
I tried to find a puller on Amazon, but the ones I saw were all for import cars with smaller CV joints. Since I can pound directly on the shaft from the passenger side, i don't think a slide hammer would work any better.
I've seen broken shafts from people pounding and praying on them. But it's your car do what you want.
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