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Old 05-17-2018, 11:46 AM   #15
Nsxmatt
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Originally Posted by RideZX6R View Post
Where are you getting this info? The rear end is the same as an SS 1LE, so I see no issue there (for me, maybe not others)
The bolt pattern on the driveshaft is the same between auto and manual? The ratio is the same? All the sensors identical between the eLSD?

There is a lot of unknowns you're not figuring. You can't just swap stuff over anymore and expect things to just work.
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Nsxmatt View Post
The bolt pattern on the driveshaft is the same between auto and manual? The ratio is the same? All the sensors identical between the eLSD?

There is a lot of unknowns you're not figuring. You can't just swap stuff over anymore and expect things to just work.
Bolt pattern is the same from what I've seen personally.
Assuming "ratio" means "rear gearing" in which case it's different but HPTuners has table to adjust the speedo calibration etc - rear gearing wouldn't prohibit a swap either.

The rear in a SS 1LE is LITERALLY the entire same assembly as the ZL1. We know this on the forum for 2 reasons.

1. it's been shown that the whole rear assembly is bolted in (diff, axles, suspension, etc) in a short process - additionally all the parts and part numbers are the same outside of the actual rear end ratio
2. The above explains why 1LEs have the ZL1 in-tank pump - it's easier to just bolt all the ZL1 components in, rather than make a separate fuel pump and slow down the assembly line process


So again - Where are you getting this info?

And again - it might be much more difficult for someone with a standard SS, but a 1LE should be much less work.
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RideZX6R View Post
Bolt pattern is the same from what I've seen personally.
Assuming "ratio" means "rear gearing" in which case it's different but HPTuners has table to adjust the speedo calibration etc - rear gearing wouldn't prohibit a swap either.

The rear in a SS 1LE is LITERALLY the entire same assembly as the ZL1. We know this on the forum for 2 reasons.

1. it's been shown that the whole rear assembly is bolted in (diff, axles, suspension, etc) in a short process - additionally all the parts and part numbers are the same outside of the actual rear end ratio
2. The above explains why 1LEs have the ZL1 in-tank pump - it's easier to just bolt all the ZL1 components in, rather than make a separate fuel pump and slow down the assembly line process


So again - Where are you getting this info?

And again - it might be much more difficult for someone with a standard SS, but a 1LE should be much less work.
Then have at it. You obviously know it will be easy so go for it.
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Old 05-17-2018, 01:27 PM   #18
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Then have at it. You obviously know it will be easy so go for it.
It won't be easy for the non-1LE guys...

And I'm quite serious - do you have data/documentation to back up your claim of items not being the same? ie the gauge cluster as an example

I could see the cluster being potentially different, however for to keep production costs low I'd assume it's the same cluster with different programming. If there's data to support that it's a different cluster, I'm all for hearing it.

I have no doubt the TCU/ECU/CAN might be the same hardware but vastly different programming - HPTuners should likely be able to take care of the TCU/ECU but the CAN bus might be wildly different
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Old 05-17-2018, 02:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RideZX6R View Post
And I'm quite serious - do you have data/documentation to back up your claim of items not being the same? ie the gauge cluster as an example
Nope. And I'm not going to search out and find proof.

Good luck to anyone that tries this.
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Old 05-17-2018, 03:01 PM   #20
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Nope. And I'm not going to search out and find proof.

Good luck to anyone that tries this.
Was legit hoping you might.

Thanks anyway
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'19 RS5 Sportback Sonoma Green | '07 Cayman S 6MT | '16 Audi S3 Prestige Viper Green (APR Stage 3+) | '19 Mustang Shelby GT350R | '17 SS 1LE MBM 575whp all-motor
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:40 PM   #21
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Just buy a ZL1
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:35 PM   #22
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Just buy a ZL1
that's the obvious answer, right? but for most, it's much easier to say, than do.

given everything being equal, you're talking another 20 grand on top of a non zl1 with comparable amenities. I won't argue that the value is there, but for a lot of people, the money may not be.

I can easily see how it is a hard pill to swallow to throw down another 200+ a month, on top of what you're paying now. Or to throw down part of a yearly paycheck just to upgrade to the better vehicle. And that doesn't include the insurance premium increase.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:09 PM   #23
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that's the obvious answer, right? but for most, it's much easier to say, than do.

given everything being equal, you're talking another 20 grand on top of a non zl1 with comparable amenities. I won't argue that the value is there, but for a lot of people, the money may not be.

I can easily see how it is a hard pill to swallow to throw down another 200+ a month, on top of what you're paying now. Or to throw down part of a yearly paycheck just to upgrade to the better vehicle. And that doesn't include the insurance premium increase.
If that’s the case, is it any more responsible to piss away $10k minimum on a trans swap, while lowering the resale value?

buy a ‘19 a10 SS and throw the suspension kit on it and a good set of 18” wheels and tires. You’ll be ahead of the game.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:15 PM   #24
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I have been contemplating do a m6 to a10 swap but the biggest hurtle that I can see is getting the BCM to work with the trans so the instrument cluster works right. I think the dealer could reprogram the bcm to work with the a10 but I don't know if they would.

The mechanic's of it is easy because they already basically offer the car in both auto and manual so there would be the normal swap items like clutch pedal, oil cooler, driveshaft?, gear shifter and wiring.

There is a a10 trans on ebay with torque converter and wiring but it still close to $4500 not to mentioned the extra $1000 in conversion parts.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10L90-GM-Tr...53.m1438.l2649

I think it would be feasible but it would cost some $$$$

I personally think it will be easier to wait until the 2019 model year rolls out and then order parts off the shelf to make it work without a hitch.

Just my thoughts
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:26 AM   #25
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If that’s the case, is it any more responsible to piss away $10k minimum on a trans swap, while lowering the resale value?

buy a ‘19 a10 SS and throw the suspension kit on it and a good set of 18” wheels and tires. You’ll be ahead of the game.
Not everyone plans on selling their car. And if you buy a '19, then you're stuck with an ugly ass '19. (opinions may vary)
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:48 AM   #26
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The a10 in the 2019 SS is not as robust as the ZL1's a10. Now if your car is already modded, and your happy with the car, a manual to auto swap should be possible if thats what one wants. Personally, I would rather not take a huge hit on the old car to buy a new ZL1, and then have to mod that as well.

Everything is possible if enough $s are thrown at it.
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:55 AM   #27
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Trade for a 19 or Zl1. Cost will be prohibitive
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:37 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRS View Post
I have been contemplating do a m6 to a10 swap but the biggest hurtle that I can see is getting the BCM to work with the trans so the instrument cluster works right. I think the dealer could reprogram the bcm to work with the a10 but I don't know if they would.

The mechanic's of it is easy because they already basically offer the car in both auto and manual so there would be the normal swap items like clutch pedal, oil cooler, driveshaft?, gear shifter and wiring.

There is a a10 trans on ebay with torque converter and wiring but it still close to $4500 not to mentioned the extra $1000 in conversion parts.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10L90-GM-Tr...53.m1438.l2649

I think it would be feasible but it would cost some $$$$

I personally think it will be easier to wait until the 2019 model year rolls out and then order parts off the shelf to make it work without a hitch.

Just my thoughts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFW1LE View Post
The a10 in the 2019 SS is not as robust as the ZL1's a10. Now if your car is already modded, and your happy with the car, a manual to auto swap should be possible if thats what one wants. Personally, I would rather not take a huge hit on the old car to buy a new ZL1, and then have to mod that as well.

Everything is possible if enough $s are thrown at it.
Sounds like you could (potentially) use the OEM SS A10 ancillary parts and then the ZL1 A10 itself for the added strength.


Overall for me... the idea would be to have the lightest V8 chassis available (1SS 1LE) with the best track (and street?) transmission.

The problem with the ZL1 is the extra 300lbs it has in supercharger and accessories. Sure you can strip weight out of both cars... but if you start with the lighter car to begin with, it'll still be lighter at the end
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'17 SS 1LE - 1LAP 1LE (Now with more 427!)
'18 F150 Platinum Powerstroke diesel
'22 Kia EV6 First Edition
'18 RS3 (1 of 2) Cumulus Blue
'24 911 T (ordered)

Formers...
'19 RS5 Sportback Sonoma Green | '07 Cayman S 6MT | '16 Audi S3 Prestige Viper Green (APR Stage 3+) | '19 Mustang Shelby GT350R | '17 SS 1LE MBM 575whp all-motor
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